This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Thought I'd kick a starter post out there just to stopgap until Dan gets in with the stats..
In reply to AJM:
Indoor/training priorities
<STG> - before October sport trip
<MTG> - 2012
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M: Nothing I don't think
T: Uphill. Got on Chiming for You, 7b. Onsighted the easy start (6b+?) which is harder than it sounds because it's incredibly blind climbing. Flailed on the crux. Took some falls, but didn't have time to actually top it out - short evenings.... Not sure how I feel about it - very unbalanced route, but the obvious thing to do is either this or Jimi Hendrix Experience (E6 or spicy 7b+ on mostly in situ gear). Tempted to maybe try that on a toprope next time and see how it takes me. Plus there's a few quasi-trad (think slate - run outs and bolts) routes I might try at onsightable grades.
W: Nothing, I don't think
T: Fingerboard session. Good session - regular fingerboarding is starting to show benefits.
- Can get middle 2 hangs for a bit without pain again.
- Can just about do front 2 on the little pockets which is a breakthrough.
- Can nestle the 35s for a few seconds
- Did 3x6x(+5kg) pullups
- Did 3 sets of 3 offset pullups, maybe equivalent of 1-3 on a campus board. Probably try a bit further apart next time in order to get the horizontal spacing between hands, felt like I was twisting a lot.
F: Nothing
S: Wintours. Freedom (VS) to start. Then did Papillon, which is baby E2. Felt fine once I worked out where the holds were. Probably nothing like the challenge of the other E2/3 stuff on that wall I want to try but nevertheless a good start.
S: Cheddar. Backed off Enemy of the State, an E2. Holds looked kind of fragile and I didn't like the peg so much. I wasn't the only one - a previous suitor had left a Maillon on the peg. Then wandered to Lion Rock and clipped up Circus Finale, which is apparently a 7c+ entirely sport version of the classic 7c Circus, Circus. The 7c bits went ok, got the moves vaguely sorted (foot positions and stuff will need work to perfect) except the redpoint crux because it wasn't on the line of the rope so hard to work properly. As for the sport top - no clue, absolutely none. Need some beta... It's only been logged once, and that top bit is an alternative finish to the other 8a+ on the wall, so it's hardly well travelled ground. Then wandered down to the roadside and tried Bluepoint, a 7a+. Onsight go was, to be fair, blown by cowardice - thin feet and hard moves, I'm too used to stamina and obvious prechalked sequences. Then ripped some holds off at the top, and found a clip quite insecure, so in general didn't really feel like getting back on it.
Mixed week really - some good points and some less good. I'd been hoping that 7c+ might offer a suitable project, and that the 7b might go quickly, but on the other hand the 7c itself feels hard but good, so that's a summer project option. And it's good to get off the starting blocks on the trad too, albeit on a very gentle route if you're my height.
Indoor/training priorities
- Strength/power training indoors to complement outdoor rock miles
- Pocket focus on fingerboard
- 10% body fat (racing weight)
- Bike odometer record - 613km
- Rolling average weight/body fat - ?
<STG> - before October sport trip
- Get trad mileage up and trad head in gear for trad week in June
- Maintain fitness and sport head
- Tick some more of the pyramid, including trying at least one 7c+
<MTG> - 2012
- Complete 7c+ pyramid (currently completed 7/8 x 7b, 2/4 x 7b+, 1/2 x 7c, 0/1 x 7c+)
- 20 x 7as/E2s or above in good style [completed: 5x 7a onsight, 1x E2 onsight]
- 7a+ onsight
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Nothing I don't think
T: Uphill. Got on Chiming for You, 7b. Onsighted the easy start (6b+?) which is harder than it sounds because it's incredibly blind climbing. Flailed on the crux. Took some falls, but didn't have time to actually top it out - short evenings.... Not sure how I feel about it - very unbalanced route, but the obvious thing to do is either this or Jimi Hendrix Experience (E6 or spicy 7b+ on mostly in situ gear). Tempted to maybe try that on a toprope next time and see how it takes me. Plus there's a few quasi-trad (think slate - run outs and bolts) routes I might try at onsightable grades.
W: Nothing, I don't think
T: Fingerboard session. Good session - regular fingerboarding is starting to show benefits.
- Can get middle 2 hangs for a bit without pain again.
- Can just about do front 2 on the little pockets which is a breakthrough.
- Can nestle the 35s for a few seconds
- Did 3x6x(+5kg) pullups
- Did 3 sets of 3 offset pullups, maybe equivalent of 1-3 on a campus board. Probably try a bit further apart next time in order to get the horizontal spacing between hands, felt like I was twisting a lot.
F: Nothing
S: Wintours. Freedom (VS) to start. Then did Papillon, which is baby E2. Felt fine once I worked out where the holds were. Probably nothing like the challenge of the other E2/3 stuff on that wall I want to try but nevertheless a good start.
S: Cheddar. Backed off Enemy of the State, an E2. Holds looked kind of fragile and I didn't like the peg so much. I wasn't the only one - a previous suitor had left a Maillon on the peg. Then wandered to Lion Rock and clipped up Circus Finale, which is apparently a 7c+ entirely sport version of the classic 7c Circus, Circus. The 7c bits went ok, got the moves vaguely sorted (foot positions and stuff will need work to perfect) except the redpoint crux because it wasn't on the line of the rope so hard to work properly. As for the sport top - no clue, absolutely none. Need some beta... It's only been logged once, and that top bit is an alternative finish to the other 8a+ on the wall, so it's hardly well travelled ground. Then wandered down to the roadside and tried Bluepoint, a 7a+. Onsight go was, to be fair, blown by cowardice - thin feet and hard moves, I'm too used to stamina and obvious prechalked sequences. Then ripped some holds off at the top, and found a clip quite insecure, so in general didn't really feel like getting back on it.
Mixed week really - some good points and some less good. I'd been hoping that 7c+ might offer a suitable project, and that the 7b might go quickly, but on the other hand the 7c itself feels hard but good, so that's a summer project option. And it's good to get off the starting blocks on the trad too, albeit on a very gentle route if you're my height.
In reply to AJM:
I'll kick off then as i want to get it out of the way.
Crap week. Bad weather and a strange lack of psyche. My right elbow is still bad. It's not golfer's or tennis but hurts in between the biggest lump on your elbow and the lateral epicondyle. Bit of swelling in the soft tissue. Research lends me to think it's the pronator teres (?). Doesn't hurt when climbing but does the day after. Undercuts and pinching hurts, crimping etc doesn't. Anyway it's still manageable and not stopping me but i think it's adding to the lack of psyche.
Only 1 climbing session this week. Nice 'warm up' of a 7a+ with a hugely bouldery start. I had been working before though and had climbed about 6 routes up to 6a+ so i wasn't totally cold but it was still a bit much i think. It was a repeat route for me and after fluffing the boulder start i got it next go. Nice as i hadn't been on it for 6 mths. Next up was a 7b on top rope. This is a alternate finish to the 7a+ but has about 15metres of independent climbing. Very happy to get it with one rest after a really cool sequence ending in a dyno for the top of a tufa. This is going to be one of my 7b's in my pyramid.
It had been showering on and off and we got soaked for 5 mins but found a dry route at 6c+. Was half way through the on-sight when i looked over an overhang and got blinded by rain.The top half of the route was a green soggy mess and it was chucking it down. Good old British spirit kicked in and i ploughed on but pulled on a draw right at the end.
The only other route left dry was Piel Palida (7c+). OMG i have so much work to do to get to this level is all i can say. I could hold most of the positions static but couldn't move from half of the holds.
I am going to try something totally different this week and possibly enter a bouldering competition on Friday. Not bouldered for 6 mths and only been on plastic 3 times in the last 9 mths so i am not hoping for anything but i think i just need a bit of a change.
Hopefully more positivity to report next week.
I'll kick off then as i want to get it out of the way.
Crap week. Bad weather and a strange lack of psyche. My right elbow is still bad. It's not golfer's or tennis but hurts in between the biggest lump on your elbow and the lateral epicondyle. Bit of swelling in the soft tissue. Research lends me to think it's the pronator teres (?). Doesn't hurt when climbing but does the day after. Undercuts and pinching hurts, crimping etc doesn't. Anyway it's still manageable and not stopping me but i think it's adding to the lack of psyche.
Only 1 climbing session this week. Nice 'warm up' of a 7a+ with a hugely bouldery start. I had been working before though and had climbed about 6 routes up to 6a+ so i wasn't totally cold but it was still a bit much i think. It was a repeat route for me and after fluffing the boulder start i got it next go. Nice as i hadn't been on it for 6 mths. Next up was a 7b on top rope. This is a alternate finish to the 7a+ but has about 15metres of independent climbing. Very happy to get it with one rest after a really cool sequence ending in a dyno for the top of a tufa. This is going to be one of my 7b's in my pyramid.
It had been showering on and off and we got soaked for 5 mins but found a dry route at 6c+. Was half way through the on-sight when i looked over an overhang and got blinded by rain.The top half of the route was a green soggy mess and it was chucking it down. Good old British spirit kicked in and i ploughed on but pulled on a draw right at the end.
The only other route left dry was Piel Palida (7c+). OMG i have so much work to do to get to this level is all i can say. I could hold most of the positions static but couldn't move from half of the holds.
I am going to try something totally different this week and possibly enter a bouldering competition on Friday. Not bouldered for 6 mths and only been on plastic 3 times in the last 9 mths so i am not hoping for anything but i think i just need a bit of a change.
Hopefully more positivity to report next week.
In reply to AJM: Might as well do mine too...
I've had a decent week, still focusing mostly on bouldering to get some power back after just doing routes for so long.
Mon - Nothing, watched the big game.
Tue - Bouldering at MCC, woo new problems! Flashed the majority of the V4-V6's, and got pretty far on a V8+ (which would be my first) but left in till the end of the session so I was tired. Hopefully it'll go when I'm fresh.
Wed - Went outside for the first time since Easter. Bouldering at Brownstones, warmed up on some of the thin slabs which I flashed, then tried some harder problems. Think I flashed a V5 dyno which I was happy with, and got spat off a couple of V8s.
Thurs - Rest, no skin left!
Fri - didn't have time for a proper session so did an hour of pullups, lockoffs, and attempted one-armers.
Sat - Revision
Sun - Went to Rockover, had a really good session. Flashed three V6's, two on the comp wall and one on the roof. Also got one V7 after some work, and loads of V4-5 ticks. Glad my bouldering is already paying off, as I usually find those grades at Rockover too hard.
So I'm going to have another week just bouldering, then start getting back on routes next week, with one bouldering session every week to maintain my power.
Cheers, Jake
I've had a decent week, still focusing mostly on bouldering to get some power back after just doing routes for so long.
Mon - Nothing, watched the big game.
Tue - Bouldering at MCC, woo new problems! Flashed the majority of the V4-V6's, and got pretty far on a V8+ (which would be my first) but left in till the end of the session so I was tired. Hopefully it'll go when I'm fresh.
Wed - Went outside for the first time since Easter. Bouldering at Brownstones, warmed up on some of the thin slabs which I flashed, then tried some harder problems. Think I flashed a V5 dyno which I was happy with, and got spat off a couple of V8s.
Thurs - Rest, no skin left!
Fri - didn't have time for a proper session so did an hour of pullups, lockoffs, and attempted one-armers.
Sat - Revision
Sun - Went to Rockover, had a really good session. Flashed three V6's, two on the comp wall and one on the roof. Also got one V7 after some work, and loads of V4-5 ticks. Glad my bouldering is already paying off, as I usually find those grades at Rockover too hard.
So I'm going to have another week just bouldering, then start getting back on routes next week, with one bouldering session every week to maintain my power.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy.
Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 4**
- Tick off a good list of E2s including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon and Scoop Wall**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others on limestone **none yet**
- A goal to be set for summer trad trip - not sure where it'll be yet (I'd love to have a crack at Foil)
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (8*7a, 4*7a+, 2*7b, 1*7b+) **if I take the lower grades that some controversial routes get, this means I need 1*7b and 1*7b+**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - see below
Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **need 4*7a+, 3*7b, 2*7b+ and 1*7c**
Long term goals (2013):
- Tick 7c in France or Spain
- Multiple grit and limestone E3s
M: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Reasonable session. Did some problems then did some traversing to finish, to work the stamina a bit. Was doing an easy juggy traverse towards the end though and felt a tendon in the right index finger. I've not had any finger problems for a long time so this was a bit of a blow. It's the tendon down the side of the index finger, up against the ring finger on my right hand. Decided to rest for a couple of days.
T: nothing. Finger felt tender.
W: nothing. Finger felt ok.
T: Decided to give the wall a whirl - routes at Alter Rock. Finger held up and was going really well - ticked the 6c+ I'd fallen on the previous week and then onsighted a 7a+ on the same wall (it must be soft, more like 7a, but even a 7a onsight is really good for me) and did a few other things. However finger was aching again in the evening after I'd got home.
F: nothing. Finger aching occasionally.
S: nothing. Ditto.
S: Almscliff bouldering. Probably shouldn't have gone but didn't want to miss out - it was my first day since Easter due to all the crap weather and wedding preparations (1 month to go!) It was quite hot but had a good day in the end - did two Font 7a's, the Cruxifix Low Traverse and Dolphin Belly Slap, the latter quite quickly - 2nd or 3rd go. Funnily enough the only problem that hurt my finger was a 6a+ I did near the start - it seems to be certain types and orientations of holds that do it (I haven't really worked out what yet), rather than just pulling hard as such.
Overall, a mixed week in that I was going really well Thursday and had a good day out with two good ticks today, but I'm worried about my finger - just hoping it improves soon. I should probably rest it for a bit longer - it's only had 2 days off at a time so far. Obviously it's stopping me from doing any fingerboarding. I've also not made any more progress towards any of my goals apart from the wall training, but that's due ot availability of weather and partners to climb routes. I'm also increasingly concerned that some of the routes I want to do at the Cornice are going to stay wet all year!
My weight is high-ish at the moment so I need to keep my eye on the food & beer!
Cheers Andy.
Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 4**
- Tick off a good list of E2s including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon and Scoop Wall**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others on limestone **none yet**
- A goal to be set for summer trad trip - not sure where it'll be yet (I'd love to have a crack at Foil)
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (8*7a, 4*7a+, 2*7b, 1*7b+) **if I take the lower grades that some controversial routes get, this means I need 1*7b and 1*7b+**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - see below
Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **need 4*7a+, 3*7b, 2*7b+ and 1*7c**
Long term goals (2013):
- Tick 7c in France or Spain
- Multiple grit and limestone E3s
M: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Reasonable session. Did some problems then did some traversing to finish, to work the stamina a bit. Was doing an easy juggy traverse towards the end though and felt a tendon in the right index finger. I've not had any finger problems for a long time so this was a bit of a blow. It's the tendon down the side of the index finger, up against the ring finger on my right hand. Decided to rest for a couple of days.
T: nothing. Finger felt tender.
W: nothing. Finger felt ok.
T: Decided to give the wall a whirl - routes at Alter Rock. Finger held up and was going really well - ticked the 6c+ I'd fallen on the previous week and then onsighted a 7a+ on the same wall (it must be soft, more like 7a, but even a 7a onsight is really good for me) and did a few other things. However finger was aching again in the evening after I'd got home.
F: nothing. Finger aching occasionally.
S: nothing. Ditto.
S: Almscliff bouldering. Probably shouldn't have gone but didn't want to miss out - it was my first day since Easter due to all the crap weather and wedding preparations (1 month to go!) It was quite hot but had a good day in the end - did two Font 7a's, the Cruxifix Low Traverse and Dolphin Belly Slap, the latter quite quickly - 2nd or 3rd go. Funnily enough the only problem that hurt my finger was a 6a+ I did near the start - it seems to be certain types and orientations of holds that do it (I haven't really worked out what yet), rather than just pulling hard as such.
Overall, a mixed week in that I was going really well Thursday and had a good day out with two good ticks today, but I'm worried about my finger - just hoping it improves soon. I should probably rest it for a bit longer - it's only had 2 days off at a time so far. Obviously it's stopping me from doing any fingerboarding. I've also not made any more progress towards any of my goals apart from the wall training, but that's due ot availability of weather and partners to climb routes. I'm also increasingly concerned that some of the routes I want to do at the Cornice are going to stay wet all year!
My weight is high-ish at the moment so I need to keep my eye on the food & beer!
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt.
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon
M - 4.02m road, 92ft.
T - rest.
W - 16.93m fell run, 5,932ft.
T - rest.
F - 4.01m trail run, 559ft.
S - 3.21m hill reps, 1,976ft.
S - 3.53m hill reps, 2,298ft.
A really good week.
Tried to go quick on the road on Monday. I have been pleased with treadmill times over 5 to 10 km recently but just can't move as quick on the road.
Wasn't going quick enough and then slowed later on due to itb pain.
Wednesday was a recce of Leg 3, Bob Graham Round, and was a fantastic day in the mountains. That is a tough leg and made me happy that I have no desire to attempt a Bob Graham Round!
Cheers Andy.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt.
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon
M - 4.02m road, 92ft.
T - rest.
W - 16.93m fell run, 5,932ft.
T - rest.
F - 4.01m trail run, 559ft.
S - 3.21m hill reps, 1,976ft.
S - 3.53m hill reps, 2,298ft.
A really good week.
Tried to go quick on the road on Monday. I have been pleased with treadmill times over 5 to 10 km recently but just can't move as quick on the road.
Wasn't going quick enough and then slowed later on due to itb pain.
Wednesday was a recce of Leg 3, Bob Graham Round, and was a fantastic day in the mountains. That is a tough leg and made me happy that I have no desire to attempt a Bob Graham Round!
In reply:
Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - Still no idea (seriously considering buying some new scales)
M - Rest
T - 14 mile run around Keilder Water
W - Rest
T - Core and stretches
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Core and stretches
Enjoyed the run this week. Good prep for the ultra, still my training has been crap. Planning on doing a fast walk for most of it and will run a few bits where possible. Probably come in a bit under 12 hours and there's a 14 hour cut off. Fingers crossed, I'll make it round, but I reckon I can do it, it'll just be painful. Had a nice holiday up in Northumberland. So nice and rested ready for next Saturday.
AJM - I can probably only just about boulder V2, so not sure if that'll get me up a 7a. But yeah with a couple of stone off and a lot of redpointing, I reckon 6c is a goer, maybe 7a. Read the racing weight quickstart while on holiday and I'm determined to see some proper weight loss this year. See you down the Gower
Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - Still no idea (seriously considering buying some new scales)
M - Rest
T - 14 mile run around Keilder Water
W - Rest
T - Core and stretches
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Core and stretches
Enjoyed the run this week. Good prep for the ultra, still my training has been crap. Planning on doing a fast walk for most of it and will run a few bits where possible. Probably come in a bit under 12 hours and there's a 14 hour cut off. Fingers crossed, I'll make it round, but I reckon I can do it, it'll just be painful. Had a nice holiday up in Northumberland. So nice and rested ready for next Saturday.
AJM - I can probably only just about boulder V2, so not sure if that'll get me up a 7a. But yeah with a couple of stone off and a lot of redpointing, I reckon 6c is a goer, maybe 7a. Read the racing weight quickstart while on holiday and I'm determined to see some proper weight loss this year. See you down the Gower
In reply to AJM:
Thanks to Andy and Dan for keeping FC going, cheers guys!
STG: Rehab finger.
2012 goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap.
M: Westway, laps in the circuit room. Did my own circuit to avoid tweaking my finger, so no idea of the grade, did about 8 laps but lost count. Got quite pumped which is the important thing.
T: Bought a return ticket to AMERICA! Tuolumne, the Needles and Yosemite here I come.
W: Westay, laps. Bit more organised this time: 9 laps, around 2m40s per lap, rest between 2m40 and 4mins, average around 3m. Fell off the last move of the last lap, pretty tired but finger okay.
T: 2.3 mile run.
F: Early shift at work, knackered.
S: Really tired, felt like I was coming down with a cold.
S: Drove to Froggatt. Did a warm up then lead Chequers Crack (proper hard HVS that might be E1) and Strapiombo (E1 roof crack). Drove back to London.
A really good week. Sunday was excellent, surprisingly good weather and lovely to be at Froggatt, which I haven't visited for a couple of years. I've put together a "crack list" of routes on the grit that are training for America, so ticked a couple of those off. Did my first E1 of the year, onsight, no falls, and did Chequers Crack too, one slight slip from the first section but downclimbed and then did it straight off. Both routes were pumpy but I found that okay, partly the physical effects of my training but also just the knowledge that even when I'm pumped I can still hang on and climb. Need to get more efficient and confident with my gear tho.
Doing laps this week was interesting. Reading 9/10 climbers, DMcL recommends short (90s) laps, between 4 and 7 reps, reading his description there is no way I was at a similar level of intensity. However I'm training for long, sustained crack climbs so thought I ought to lengthen the laps a little at a slightly lower intensity. Presume people mix up length/intensity a bit - any thoughts on this?
Also bought a ticket to America! Nine weeks, starting in late August. Very excited...
Thanks to Andy and Dan for keeping FC going, cheers guys!
STG: Rehab finger.
2012 goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap.
M: Westway, laps in the circuit room. Did my own circuit to avoid tweaking my finger, so no idea of the grade, did about 8 laps but lost count. Got quite pumped which is the important thing.
T: Bought a return ticket to AMERICA! Tuolumne, the Needles and Yosemite here I come.
W: Westay, laps. Bit more organised this time: 9 laps, around 2m40s per lap, rest between 2m40 and 4mins, average around 3m. Fell off the last move of the last lap, pretty tired but finger okay.
T: 2.3 mile run.
F: Early shift at work, knackered.
S: Really tired, felt like I was coming down with a cold.
S: Drove to Froggatt. Did a warm up then lead Chequers Crack (proper hard HVS that might be E1) and Strapiombo (E1 roof crack). Drove back to London.
A really good week. Sunday was excellent, surprisingly good weather and lovely to be at Froggatt, which I haven't visited for a couple of years. I've put together a "crack list" of routes on the grit that are training for America, so ticked a couple of those off. Did my first E1 of the year, onsight, no falls, and did Chequers Crack too, one slight slip from the first section but downclimbed and then did it straight off. Both routes were pumpy but I found that okay, partly the physical effects of my training but also just the knowledge that even when I'm pumped I can still hang on and climb. Need to get more efficient and confident with my gear tho.
Doing laps this week was interesting. Reading 9/10 climbers, DMcL recommends short (90s) laps, between 4 and 7 reps, reading his description there is no way I was at a similar level of intensity. However I'm training for long, sustained crack climbs so thought I ought to lengthen the laps a little at a slightly lower intensity. Presume people mix up length/intensity a bit - any thoughts on this?
Also bought a ticket to America! Nine weeks, starting in late August. Very excited...
In reply to seankenny:
M-W nothing
Thurs: Malham, surprisinly good session despite a woozy head-cold. Got a revised and actually working sequence on Tremelo - this may now actually go given some fitness, pleased with session.
Sunday: Smalldale, cold on fingers, some good stuff, one scary experience
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=504677
bit jittery but lead one route afterwards on 'other' glue-ins to 'get back on the bike' as it were. still not quite sure how I feel about it.
will see how climbing goes in the week - probably on mechanical bolts!
M-W nothing
Thurs: Malham, surprisinly good session despite a woozy head-cold. Got a revised and actually working sequence on Tremelo - this may now actually go given some fitness, pleased with session.
Sunday: Smalldale, cold on fingers, some good stuff, one scary experience
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=504677
bit jittery but lead one route afterwards on 'other' glue-ins to 'get back on the bike' as it were. still not quite sure how I feel about it.
will see how climbing goes in the week - probably on mechanical bolts!
In reply to richardh:
Jesus. That sounds harrowing. I would have required a new pair of boxers after that.
Jesus. That sounds harrowing. I would have required a new pair of boxers after that.
In reply to seankenny:
My guess, based on not a lot, is that working aerobic stuff or the aerobic end of power endurance would be my key region to work, based on the rationale that lots of fairly uniform crack climbing is likely to be more cruxless and therefore require more stamina and less pe than usual...
My guess, based on not a lot, is that working aerobic stuff or the aerobic end of power endurance would be my key region to work, based on the rationale that lots of fairly uniform crack climbing is likely to be more cruxless and therefore require more stamina and less pe than usual...
In reply to AJM:
Sounds good. What would that translate to in term of lapping the board? I say this rather than routes as it's easier to do on my own.
Sounds good. What would that translate to in term of lapping the board? I say this rather than routes as it's easier to do on my own.
In reply to seankenny:
m: 17 mile trail run, 600 m ascent.
t: 10 mile road run
w: 4 mile late run in northern ireland. working at sea
t: 3 mile early morning run northern ireland.. working at sea
f: 12.5 mile road and trail run
s: trail race. 11 miles, 600m ascent. start of snowdon leg of paddy buckley ~ 6 miles and 1500m ascent
s: rest of the snowdon leg and glyders leg of the paddy buuckly ~ 17 miles, 2500m ascent. 20 miles on road bike.
m: 17 mile trail run, 600 m ascent.
t: 10 mile road run
w: 4 mile late run in northern ireland. working at sea
t: 3 mile early morning run northern ireland.. working at sea
f: 12.5 mile road and trail run
s: trail race. 11 miles, 600m ascent. start of snowdon leg of paddy buckley ~ 6 miles and 1500m ascent
s: rest of the snowdon leg and glyders leg of the paddy buuckly ~ 17 miles, 2500m ascent. 20 miles on road bike.
In reply to seankenny:
Well, if you can get uninterrupted time on the board try doing circuit-shake-circuit etc for say 10 circuits with timed shakeouts? The sort of workout from hell Dave Mac recommends for the very fit iirc?
Or if you have to share try doing double length circuits, say twice or thrice round then your 2-4 minute break - a bit antisocial I guess but basically the more aerobic you try to get the more rock (climbing but also shaking, although prioritise the former where you can) time to rest time you should be aiming for. If you can't get less than 2 min rests you want to squeeze as much as you can in when you're climbing - 3-4 supersets (60 moves maybe) with 2 min rests, then a decent rest and go again, something like that. Any of the aerocap methods will do a treat too...
Well, if you can get uninterrupted time on the board try doing circuit-shake-circuit etc for say 10 circuits with timed shakeouts? The sort of workout from hell Dave Mac recommends for the very fit iirc?
Or if you have to share try doing double length circuits, say twice or thrice round then your 2-4 minute break - a bit antisocial I guess but basically the more aerobic you try to get the more rock (climbing but also shaking, although prioritise the former where you can) time to rest time you should be aiming for. If you can't get less than 2 min rests you want to squeeze as much as you can in when you're climbing - 3-4 supersets (60 moves maybe) with 2 min rests, then a decent rest and go again, something like that. Any of the aerocap methods will do a treat too...
In reply to AJM:
M- work/Rest
T- work/Rest
W- Rare midweek climbing session. Needed a break from work. Did some training and felt super strong. 1479 felt very easy as I was easily getting to between the 7th+8th rung before dropping on to the 7th.
T- work/Rest
F- Football. 11-a-side. I play as a winger and do a lot of running. A lot.
S- Climbing at Roaches Skyline, Gib torr and Newstones. Did Charlie's Overhang which has been on the to do list for a long long time. Lots of cool grit climbs followed by an epic pub dinner.
S- work/Rest
M- work/Rest
T- work/Rest
W- Rare midweek climbing session. Needed a break from work. Did some training and felt super strong. 1479 felt very easy as I was easily getting to between the 7th+8th rung before dropping on to the 7th.
T- work/Rest
F- Football. 11-a-side. I play as a winger and do a lot of running. A lot.
S- Climbing at Roaches Skyline, Gib torr and Newstones. Did Charlie's Overhang which has been on the to do list for a long long time. Lots of cool grit climbs followed by an epic pub dinner.
S- work/Rest
In reply to AJM:
Cheers AJM
STG (end of Aug):
RP Mr bluesky
E1 onsight
Onsight E2/3
CLimb long/multipitch E1/HVS
Climb on Slate
MTG (end of 2012):
onsight 6c
no major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4
Last fortnights goals:
Drive to font - Tick
Do an entire (easy) circuit sunday - Loads of easy problems but went to an off piste area
one or two wall sessions - 1 session taken it easy
Week 267:
M: Rest
T: wall I Think
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Drive to font
S: Buthier tennis climbed lots of stuff. Was trying to get to buthier canard but got lost. Not sure what I climbed but one was a 5+
Week 268:
M: 95.2 - Started on the blues moved on to the yellows went back to the blues flashed a red then worked a 6C traverse
T: Isatis quite a few blues and tried a few whites
Rocher de Sabot - Some yellows couple of blues it was packed I was tired
W: PLayed on the board at Maisonbleau in the rain
Buthier Piscine. did a black a few yellows and a couple of blues
Buthier canard tried a couple of blues
T: L'Elephant Worked a 6A and 6A+ failed on the top out of both. Ticked a few blues.
Petit Bois. Tried Big Jim. Ticked lots of yellow and a couple of blues
Board at Maisonbleau plus one in the evening
F: 95.2 - working the 6C traverse.
Cul de Chein - Couple of easy things tired
Drove to paris got lost and saw the awful tower
S: Drive home utterly exhausted
S: Rest
This weeks goals:
Climb a couple of times
Rest up and recover
Font all I can say is WOW. so tired. The holds were pretty nice compared to what I was expecting. lots of crimpy quarried grit makes tough skin
Awesome week
Cheers AJM
STG (end of Aug):
RP Mr bluesky
E1 onsight
Onsight E2/3
CLimb long/multipitch E1/HVS
Climb on Slate
MTG (end of 2012):
onsight 6c
no major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4
Last fortnights goals:
Drive to font - Tick
Do an entire (easy) circuit sunday - Loads of easy problems but went to an off piste area
one or two wall sessions - 1 session taken it easy
Week 267:
M: Rest
T: wall I Think
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Drive to font
S: Buthier tennis climbed lots of stuff. Was trying to get to buthier canard but got lost. Not sure what I climbed but one was a 5+
Week 268:
M: 95.2 - Started on the blues moved on to the yellows went back to the blues flashed a red then worked a 6C traverse
T: Isatis quite a few blues and tried a few whites
Rocher de Sabot - Some yellows couple of blues it was packed I was tired
W: PLayed on the board at Maisonbleau in the rain
Buthier Piscine. did a black a few yellows and a couple of blues
Buthier canard tried a couple of blues
T: L'Elephant Worked a 6A and 6A+ failed on the top out of both. Ticked a few blues.
Petit Bois. Tried Big Jim. Ticked lots of yellow and a couple of blues
Board at Maisonbleau plus one in the evening
F: 95.2 - working the 6C traverse.
Cul de Chein - Couple of easy things tired
Drove to paris got lost and saw the awful tower
S: Drive home utterly exhausted
S: Rest
This weeks goals:
Climb a couple of times
Rest up and recover
Font all I can say is WOW. so tired. The holds were pretty nice compared to what I was expecting. lots of crimpy quarried grit makes tough skin
Awesome week
In reply to JimmyKay: Was brassic at Burbage north this morning a perfect winter grit day ... will limestone season ever come this year?
In reply to AJM: First post on this type of thread! Just started climbing for first time in 5 years last week, so here goes:
STG: Climb three times a week (2 routes and 1 bouldering). Reduce weight from running. Start climbing outside.
MTG: Climb VS's
LTG: Climb E1's
This week:
M: Routes at around 5b, on slabs and vertical
T: 45 minute run just under 4 miles
W: Rest - Sore from M and T
T: Routes at around 5c, all on slabs
F: Rest - Feeling sore, particularly fingers.
S: Pushups and situps - 2 sets.
S: Rest
Overall, I'm happy. Aim for this week is to do add another day of climbing by doing some bouldering on Saturday and climb some more vertical routes. I'm feeling sore generally, but this is expected from being out of shape for so long!
STG: Climb three times a week (2 routes and 1 bouldering). Reduce weight from running. Start climbing outside.
MTG: Climb VS's
LTG: Climb E1's
This week:
M: Routes at around 5b, on slabs and vertical
T: 45 minute run just under 4 miles
W: Rest - Sore from M and T
T: Routes at around 5c, all on slabs
F: Rest - Feeling sore, particularly fingers.
S: Pushups and situps - 2 sets.
S: Rest
Overall, I'm happy. Aim for this week is to do add another day of climbing by doing some bouldering on Saturday and climb some more vertical routes. I'm feeling sore generally, but this is expected from being out of shape for so long!
In reply to grubes:
It has to come!! La Baliene looks mega at Petit Bois doesn't it? That and Big Jim are such good pieces of rock.
It has to come!! La Baliene looks mega at Petit Bois doesn't it? That and Big Jim are such good pieces of rock.
In reply to AJM:
Steady week again. Think I managed to post 2 weeks worth in the last post?…I’m easily confused, must be my age.
M: Rest
T: Fingerboard and harder stuff at home
W: Rest
T: Wall, few repeats at 6b+, looked at 6c+ again, felt harder than my first look, think I was a bit tired. May go, could do with some beta.
F: Fingerboard and harder stuff at home
S: Rest
S: Fingerboard and harder stuff at home + core
I going to step out of fit club for a while, I will be back. Big thanks to Andy, biscuit, Dan and others for their input over the weeks
Steady week again. Think I managed to post 2 weeks worth in the last post?…I’m easily confused, must be my age.
M: Rest
T: Fingerboard and harder stuff at home
W: Rest
T: Wall, few repeats at 6b+, looked at 6c+ again, felt harder than my first look, think I was a bit tired. May go, could do with some beta.
F: Fingerboard and harder stuff at home
S: Rest
S: Fingerboard and harder stuff at home + core
I going to step out of fit club for a while, I will be back. Big thanks to Andy, biscuit, Dan and others for their input over the weeks
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
Sorry just got back from Pembroke this weekend, forgot to say.
I'll get back to it this evening.
Thanks Andy,
Sorry just got back from Pembroke this weekend, forgot to say.
I'll get back to it this evening.
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to grubes)
>
> La Baliene looks mega at Petit Bois doesn't it?
How did I not see this it looks unbelievably good ... vimeo.com/10524256 Arse need to try this!>
> La Baliene looks mega at Petit Bois doesn't it?
> That and Big Jim are such good pieces of rock.
Big jim was amazing and I really wanted to give it a proper go but it was really hot and humid. I had two thin pads and two skinny female spotters. No confidence to go for it. Some thing to go back for.In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy,
A better week this week. Though only went indoors once.
Current efforts for sport: Trying to up the onsight & volume of 7's. So tried onsight on all routes on lead. Did a bunch of 6's too, but not counting them here.
Tues: MK leading. OS 7ax2 and 7b 2nd go. Tried another 7b and 7b+ but didn't get them clean. Motivation was good, a change is as good as a break....
Sat: Gower 3cliffs then watchhouse- 2 trad lines, then sport. 2nd go 7a (drilling fields).
Sun: Gower Foxholes - Failed to clean 7a (joy de viva) - end of day, RP 7a+ (lucky Duck), tried OS, but ended up doing in a few sections 7b (pioneers of hypno...).
Great volume outside - 10 ascents of 7's, though onsights were thin on the ground, ie none in the 7's. Really liked the climbing at foxholes.
this week: Try to climb indoors twice, and outside once. Plan: Get on as many 7's as possible.
Cheers, Kev
Cheers Andy,
A better week this week. Though only went indoors once.
Current efforts for sport: Trying to up the onsight & volume of 7's. So tried onsight on all routes on lead. Did a bunch of 6's too, but not counting them here.
Tues: MK leading. OS 7ax2 and 7b 2nd go. Tried another 7b and 7b+ but didn't get them clean. Motivation was good, a change is as good as a break....
Sat: Gower 3cliffs then watchhouse- 2 trad lines, then sport. 2nd go 7a (drilling fields).
Sun: Gower Foxholes - Failed to clean 7a (joy de viva) - end of day, RP 7a+ (lucky Duck), tried OS, but ended up doing in a few sections 7b (pioneers of hypno...).
Great volume outside - 10 ascents of 7's, though onsights were thin on the ground, ie none in the 7's. Really liked the climbing at foxholes.
this week: Try to climb indoors twice, and outside once. Plan: Get on as many 7's as possible.
Cheers, Kev
In reply to AJM: First week of (up to) 11 months' paid gardening leave, so got on with it a bit before a weekend away:
M: 4.5m run
T: 4.5m run
W: 48m lumpy (400' ascent) bike ride, including a (wind assisted) rapid ride over the shoulder opt Pen y Ghent from Halton Gill to Stainforth, averaging 20mph!
T: Played golf
F: 51m bike ride with 4000' ascent
S: Away for the weekend
S: Away
After planning my summer of cycling, running and generally getting fit my paid jobless period lasted precisely 4 hours - phone rang at lunchtime on Monday, start a 6 month contract (I'm going to do some interim stuff for a bit) on 21 May. Bugger.
M: 4.5m run
T: 4.5m run
W: 48m lumpy (400' ascent) bike ride, including a (wind assisted) rapid ride over the shoulder opt Pen y Ghent from Halton Gill to Stainforth, averaging 20mph!
T: Played golf
F: 51m bike ride with 4000' ascent
S: Away for the weekend
S: Away
After planning my summer of cycling, running and generally getting fit my paid jobless period lasted precisely 4 hours - phone rang at lunchtime on Monday, start a 6 month contract (I'm going to do some interim stuff for a bit) on 21 May. Bugger.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM, just like the old days huh.
STG (Summer): onsight 6c+, lead HVS, boulder V5 x 4 at boulderuk
MTG (autumn): RP 7a+ or 7b, lead E1, boulder V6 at boulderuk
Mon: nowt
Tues: boulderuk, repeating ticks from previous session. 1 x V5.
Wed: 30 mile road bike round Pendle Hill from work
Thurs: Giggleswick South, oh dear... Total failure on a 6c, Rib Tickler
Fri: slow, short 3.5 mile run
Sat: Quayfoot Buttress, led 2 x HVS, Mandrake and Irony, both excellent
Sun: 13 mile run (erm, ok, mostly walk), 1,200m ascent, up and around Scafell Pike from Seathwaite
Woeful performance on Thursday. Couldn't do Rib Tickler at all, not even on top rope. My climbing buddy couldn't either. Makes me think we got it totally wrong, it's pretty unusual for me to be totally shut down by a 6c.
Quayfoot buttress on Saturday was awesome, lead 2 5a pitches which means I've ticked one STG and partly redeemed my shoddy efforts on Rib Tickler.
Tempted to go back to Giggs to try to work it out, but then also tempted to forget about it and move on.
Thanks AJM, just like the old days huh.
STG (Summer): onsight 6c+, lead HVS, boulder V5 x 4 at boulderuk
MTG (autumn): RP 7a+ or 7b, lead E1, boulder V6 at boulderuk
Mon: nowt
Tues: boulderuk, repeating ticks from previous session. 1 x V5.
Wed: 30 mile road bike round Pendle Hill from work
Thurs: Giggleswick South, oh dear... Total failure on a 6c, Rib Tickler
Fri: slow, short 3.5 mile run
Sat: Quayfoot Buttress, led 2 x HVS, Mandrake and Irony, both excellent
Sun: 13 mile run (erm, ok, mostly walk), 1,200m ascent, up and around Scafell Pike from Seathwaite
Woeful performance on Thursday. Couldn't do Rib Tickler at all, not even on top rope. My climbing buddy couldn't either. Makes me think we got it totally wrong, it's pretty unusual for me to be totally shut down by a 6c.
Quayfoot buttress on Saturday was awesome, lead 2 5a pitches which means I've ticked one STG and partly redeemed my shoddy efforts on Rib Tickler.
Tempted to go back to Giggs to try to work it out, but then also tempted to forget about it and move on.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to AJM)
> Tempted to go back to Giggs to try to work it out,
I have been to Giggs South I would go with ->> Tempted to go back to Giggs to try to work it out,
> but then also tempted to forget about it and move on.
In reply to grubes:
Ha ha yes life is far too short to get worked up about sport routes at Giggs South! Still annoying tho, you know how it is.
Ha ha yes life is far too short to get worked up about sport routes at Giggs South! Still annoying tho, you know how it is.
Apologies for the late post, just came back from climbing in Pembroke.
Good to see several returners this week. Let's keep training hard while the weather is grim.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (267) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=503751&v=1#x6854926
Posters: 32
Kevster – Shame you’re getting bored with the local wall. Still, I guess having the routes wired makes for great endurance training potential for France.
AJM – Hope you settle in soon. Agree with cold/wet fingers. There’s very little feedback so I find myself destroying them pulling on ambitious holds with little accuracy.
JimmyKay – Good to see you back. Sounds like some useful sessions. Still running?
Sankey – Good week considering your injury. I’m sure you’ll get your 50min 10K
Ian Bell – Hope you find some time at least for maintenance.
Biscuit – What you got done sounds really useful. I find climbing without the grade in mind takes the pressure off so you can go for it. 60m 6c sounds amazing. Do take care with injury though. Maybe press ups for balance?
Hokkyokusei – Cracking, well done.
SeanKenny – Good work with hill sprints, which aren’t particularly fun. Hope you manage to get some more CV in. Take care with your finger.
Si dH – Standard. I’m sure these indoor sessions will pay off on your next opportunity to “perform” after “training”
NMN – Good week with the working situation you had.
Mattrm – Go for that 7a redpoint  meanwhile, I’m sure you can onsight 6b soon
Andy – Hope you find the time to increase the fitness:beer ratio!
Leon – It’s hard to get the balance between training and fun. Just depends how much you want to improve. Great effort on the 7a, especially not saying take. Just go for it more and more on sport.
Mark Torrance – Well done on the Marathon, sounds grim.
Steve John B – Welcome back. I find no watch for a run can be quite refreshing now and then as you can run according to how hard it feels. What kind of things are you working for with weights?
Joughton – Great sessions there Jake. Sounds like you’re good at keeping your cool when you’re swimming in lactic acid. Something I need to improve.
Eagle River – Shame about the situation with your local wall. Hope you manage to improve even when you’re just working the hard routes.
GordyB – Great week. Well done on the 5K
Nomics4Sale – Nice new goals. Good luck and hope you see some bouldering improvement translate across routes and trad.
Chris05 – Solid week again. Hope you manage to climb as you say. Go easy on the monos, I try to rest about 5 days between mono sessions, and more if I tweak a finger.
Quiddity – Great week, keeping your head down training through the bad weather.
Laim M – Great week with the fast stuff thrown in even close to the race. Keep going.
Ali – There’s nothing like peer motivation.
Mrchewey – Congrats on your Hard Severe, Hope to see more soon!
Curious Yellow – Good to see you back and committed. Kalymnos sounds great, I’ve heard several people raving about it recently. Well done on 7a OS.
Jgustafsson – Good effort on the track session. I’m sure your climbing will get back soon after three weeks of HM prep. Good luck.
Ayuplass – Sounds like a good week. Your training is very varied which I’m sure serves you well.
IainRUK – Good mileage once again
Tom Hutton – Welcome back. Good luck shifting the weight and attacking the training again.
Richardh – Quiet week
Stone_donkey – Well done on the 6b. Keep chipping away at these grades.
Richard Popp – Good news on your check up. And another solid week.
Good to see several returners this week. Let's keep training hard while the weather is grim.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (267) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=503751&v=1#x6854926
Posters: 32
Kevster – Shame you’re getting bored with the local wall. Still, I guess having the routes wired makes for great endurance training potential for France.
AJM – Hope you settle in soon. Agree with cold/wet fingers. There’s very little feedback so I find myself destroying them pulling on ambitious holds with little accuracy.
JimmyKay – Good to see you back. Sounds like some useful sessions. Still running?
Sankey – Good week considering your injury. I’m sure you’ll get your 50min 10K
Ian Bell – Hope you find some time at least for maintenance.
Biscuit – What you got done sounds really useful. I find climbing without the grade in mind takes the pressure off so you can go for it. 60m 6c sounds amazing. Do take care with injury though. Maybe press ups for balance?
Hokkyokusei – Cracking, well done.
SeanKenny – Good work with hill sprints, which aren’t particularly fun. Hope you manage to get some more CV in. Take care with your finger.
Si dH – Standard. I’m sure these indoor sessions will pay off on your next opportunity to “perform” after “training”
NMN – Good week with the working situation you had.
Mattrm – Go for that 7a redpoint  meanwhile, I’m sure you can onsight 6b soon
Andy – Hope you find the time to increase the fitness:beer ratio!
Leon – It’s hard to get the balance between training and fun. Just depends how much you want to improve. Great effort on the 7a, especially not saying take. Just go for it more and more on sport.
Mark Torrance – Well done on the Marathon, sounds grim.
Steve John B – Welcome back. I find no watch for a run can be quite refreshing now and then as you can run according to how hard it feels. What kind of things are you working for with weights?
Joughton – Great sessions there Jake. Sounds like you’re good at keeping your cool when you’re swimming in lactic acid. Something I need to improve.
Eagle River – Shame about the situation with your local wall. Hope you manage to improve even when you’re just working the hard routes.
GordyB – Great week. Well done on the 5K
Nomics4Sale – Nice new goals. Good luck and hope you see some bouldering improvement translate across routes and trad.
Chris05 – Solid week again. Hope you manage to climb as you say. Go easy on the monos, I try to rest about 5 days between mono sessions, and more if I tweak a finger.
Quiddity – Great week, keeping your head down training through the bad weather.
Laim M – Great week with the fast stuff thrown in even close to the race. Keep going.
Ali – There’s nothing like peer motivation.
Mrchewey – Congrats on your Hard Severe, Hope to see more soon!
Curious Yellow – Good to see you back and committed. Kalymnos sounds great, I’ve heard several people raving about it recently. Well done on 7a OS.
Jgustafsson – Good effort on the track session. I’m sure your climbing will get back soon after three weeks of HM prep. Good luck.
Ayuplass – Sounds like a good week. Your training is very varied which I’m sure serves you well.
IainRUK – Good mileage once again
Tom Hutton – Welcome back. Good luck shifting the weight and attacking the training again.
Richardh – Quiet week
Stone_donkey – Well done on the 6b. Keep chipping away at these grades.
Richard Popp – Good news on your check up. And another solid week.
In reply to AJM:
M-Woodie. Didn't feel great so did some recruitment on old hard routes. In hindsight I should have pushed out out of my comfort zone and done some endurance.
T-
W-Battle PT. Long group run in combats carrying an ammunition tin and a tire. Great for the traps which were sore for a few days. Good CV too.
T-Woodie, but nothing serious as I wanted to climb at my best at the weekend. Press ups for antagonists.
F-Midnight VS on sight naked solo. Breezy
S-2 hard E2s at Stennis Head
S-Stingray E2, Kitten Claws E3. It was one of those moments where everything was good, the scorching sun went in so it was cool, and I realised I didn't have an excuse not to try. I'm extremely happy to get it done.
So an amazing weekend in Pembroke. Not back to endurance training. It's quite hard to get the training right on a 40deg woodie, but I've got to make a circuit the right ability, and then have the discipline to do 40min of sets on it to eyeball popping pump.
M-Woodie. Didn't feel great so did some recruitment on old hard routes. In hindsight I should have pushed out out of my comfort zone and done some endurance.
T-
W-Battle PT. Long group run in combats carrying an ammunition tin and a tire. Great for the traps which were sore for a few days. Good CV too.
T-Woodie, but nothing serious as I wanted to climb at my best at the weekend. Press ups for antagonists.
F-Midnight VS on sight naked solo. Breezy
S-2 hard E2s at Stennis Head
S-Stingray E2, Kitten Claws E3. It was one of those moments where everything was good, the scorching sun went in so it was cool, and I realised I didn't have an excuse not to try. I'm extremely happy to get it done.
So an amazing weekend in Pembroke. Not back to endurance training. It's quite hard to get the training right on a 40deg woodie, but I've got to make a circuit the right ability, and then have the discipline to do 40min of sets on it to eyeball popping pump.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Midnight?!? Solo?!?! Naked????
You HAVE to explain...
> (In reply to AJM)
>
>>
> F-Midnight VS on sight naked solo. Breezy
Midnight?!? Solo?!?! Naked????
You HAVE to explain...
In reply to Nomics4sale:
There just seemed to be a lot of club psyche on the first night of our trip.
My friend had soloed Armorican so many times he needed a new style of ascent.
I didn't fancy that route but went down in boxers and eventually had the balls for a softer route next to it. I had the misfortune of climbing just below my friend who was also starkers. Nice way to warm up to the place!
There just seemed to be a lot of club psyche on the first night of our trip.
My friend had soloed Armorican so many times he needed a new style of ascent.
I didn't fancy that route but went down in boxers and eventually had the balls for a softer route next to it. I had the misfortune of climbing just below my friend who was also starkers. Nice way to warm up to the place!
In reply to AJM:
Tues: 6 mile trail run, steady pace, feeling great, really fit
wed / Thur/Friday - rest
Sat: Stuc a Chroin Hill race - 14miles / 1500m ascent/descent. 3h 32m. Good steady pace, strong descending.
Sun: rest..
So first goal race goal achieved. Would alike to have been faster, but delighted at lasting the pace with no injuries, didn't even land on my backside... But it was a really brutal race.
Bit of a lazy start to this week as I recover, but will start to get more miles and ascent in towards end of week before Jura Hill race in 3 weeks.
Tues: 6 mile trail run, steady pace, feeling great, really fit
wed / Thur/Friday - rest
Sat: Stuc a Chroin Hill race - 14miles / 1500m ascent/descent. 3h 32m. Good steady pace, strong descending.
Sun: rest..
So first goal race goal achieved. Would alike to have been faster, but delighted at lasting the pace with no injuries, didn't even land on my backside... But it was a really brutal race.
Bit of a lazy start to this week as I recover, but will start to get more miles and ascent in towards end of week before Jura Hill race in 3 weeks.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Daniel,
Mon: --
Tue: Running: track session. 1x400;1x800;2x1200;1x800;1x400. V tough, but persevered. 13km in total including run home.
Wed: Bouldering
Thu: Nowt, worked late
Fri: Running: failed tempo run, turned into 4km easy and 2x2km at ~4:00/km pace
Sat: Running: long run. 19.8km at 1:40:00 HM pace. Feels like I should aim for 1:38 now. Boulder in the afternoon.
Sun: Tried to participate in local 5k race in the morning. Legs were having none of that. Climbing in the afternoon, started getting knee pains. Limping badly by the end of the day -- I guess I went a little too far too fast on Saturday. A little googling and it's clear that it's ITB-syndrome. Icing, stretching, ibuprofen and I'm feeling better today. Hoping track will go ok tomorrow...
Not a fantastic week, though reasonably happy with Sat's long run. I tend to overreact to these things, but I was really depressed yesterday about the state of my knee. It feels surprisingly better today, so here's hoping I didn't set myself back too much. Track tomorrow will tell...
Goals:
Short-term: sub 43 min 10k in one week; sub 1:40 at Brooklyn HM in two weeks.
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (4/4); 7b+ (8/8).
Thanks Daniel,
Mon: --
Tue: Running: track session. 1x400;1x800;2x1200;1x800;1x400. V tough, but persevered. 13km in total including run home.
Wed: Bouldering
Thu: Nowt, worked late
Fri: Running: failed tempo run, turned into 4km easy and 2x2km at ~4:00/km pace
Sat: Running: long run. 19.8km at 1:40:00 HM pace. Feels like I should aim for 1:38 now. Boulder in the afternoon.
Sun: Tried to participate in local 5k race in the morning. Legs were having none of that. Climbing in the afternoon, started getting knee pains. Limping badly by the end of the day -- I guess I went a little too far too fast on Saturday. A little googling and it's clear that it's ITB-syndrome. Icing, stretching, ibuprofen and I'm feeling better today. Hoping track will go ok tomorrow...
Not a fantastic week, though reasonably happy with Sat's long run. I tend to overreact to these things, but I was really depressed yesterday about the state of my knee. It feels surprisingly better today, so here's hoping I didn't set myself back too much. Track tomorrow will tell...
Goals:
Short-term: sub 43 min 10k in one week; sub 1:40 at Brooklyn HM in two weeks.
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (4/4); 7b+ (8/8).
Thanks Daniel. I intend to take it easy on the mono's!
Goals (2012)
7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C
Front lever & a one arm pull-up
M: 4.5m run, BM: easy repeaters, front 2 max hangs (+15kg on smallest pockets) & front lever progs
T: Bouldering at NCC
W: 4.5m run
T: BM: one arm max hangs, assisted one-armers, theraband & eccentrics
F: rest - drive to Norfolk to see family
S: eating and drinking
S: see Saturday, then travelled home
Reasonable week prior to the weekend. Finger is still not great, trying to work around it and still train/climb but I am not very good at sticking to really easy stuff, at least it isn't getting any worse. My biggest weakness is not getting more actual climbing done, which I am keen to address once this finger improves.
Goals (2012)
7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C
Front lever & a one arm pull-up
M: 4.5m run, BM: easy repeaters, front 2 max hangs (+15kg on smallest pockets) & front lever progs
T: Bouldering at NCC
W: 4.5m run
T: BM: one arm max hangs, assisted one-armers, theraband & eccentrics
F: rest - drive to Norfolk to see family
S: eating and drinking
S: see Saturday, then travelled home
Reasonable week prior to the weekend. Finger is still not great, trying to work around it and still train/climb but I am not very good at sticking to really easy stuff, at least it isn't getting any worse. My biggest weakness is not getting more actual climbing done, which I am keen to address once this finger improves.
Cheers.
Not a lot done this week, not had a moment to myself, which sounds like an excuse.
Went to the boulder room on Monday but left after half hour as time needed to be spent running. Only half hour run. Core work intermittently.
Slept on Snowdon station platform friday evening, then headed off to do Welsh3000s. It was cold. All going well till descent off Tryfan when my mates knee started to complain, he decided to quit at Llewellan, when we could see the finish but we'd been very slow on the Carnedd climbs. Gutted but a decent training session in terms of hours on feet. No complaints from me apart from left achilles a bit tight.
Looks like the same again this weekend.
Not a lot done this week, not had a moment to myself, which sounds like an excuse.
Went to the boulder room on Monday but left after half hour as time needed to be spent running. Only half hour run. Core work intermittently.
Slept on Snowdon station platform friday evening, then headed off to do Welsh3000s. It was cold. All going well till descent off Tryfan when my mates knee started to complain, he decided to quit at Llewellan, when we could see the finish but we'd been very slow on the Carnedd climbs. Gutted but a decent training session in terms of hours on feet. No complaints from me apart from left achilles a bit tight.
Looks like the same again this weekend.
In reply to mrchewy: Just read that back and been a bit harsh on myself. Up at 5.30am and finishing work gone midnight at times just put paid to anything other than a shower and food during the week. I don't do lunchbreaks.
Good to see others heading towards there goals tho, well done everyone.
Good to see others heading towards there goals tho, well done everyone.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Daniel.
STG (May 2012): Climb at Kilnsey and tick 1x7b+
MTG (end of 2012): Get on a 7c, (Tremelo, New Dawn or something at Kilnsey)
Couple of indoor sessions this week and a sneaky outdoor one.
Mon: MCC, pleased to flash two 7as on the main wall then got stuck into a really good 7b/7b+ route which felt like it’d go and had some decent links on it. Finished off falling from the second to last move of another 7a on flash.
Wed: MCC again. Warmed up then got on the 7b/7b+ route, got about ¾ of the way up but didn’t put enough oomph into a rockover so fell off. Next go I fell off as I was attempting to clip so got quite a bit of freefall with that one! After that I flashed a 7a+ and finished off the 7a I fell off on Mon.
Thurs: last minute suggestion from a partner to go to Trollers Gill. Hadn’t been before and was pleasantly surprised by the main wall. Got on Barguest Direct, which is given hard 7a, and ticked it second attempt even though on that attempt I made such a mess of the start I was pumped like crazy from the 2nd bolt all the way to the top.
The goals so far are not going too well as I’ve not had a chance to get back to Space Race and seemed to miss the decent weather window for Kilnsey but hopefully things should improve soon.
Thanks Daniel.
STG (May 2012): Climb at Kilnsey and tick 1x7b+
MTG (end of 2012): Get on a 7c, (Tremelo, New Dawn or something at Kilnsey)
Couple of indoor sessions this week and a sneaky outdoor one.
Mon: MCC, pleased to flash two 7as on the main wall then got stuck into a really good 7b/7b+ route which felt like it’d go and had some decent links on it. Finished off falling from the second to last move of another 7a on flash.
Wed: MCC again. Warmed up then got on the 7b/7b+ route, got about ¾ of the way up but didn’t put enough oomph into a rockover so fell off. Next go I fell off as I was attempting to clip so got quite a bit of freefall with that one! After that I flashed a 7a+ and finished off the 7a I fell off on Mon.
Thurs: last minute suggestion from a partner to go to Trollers Gill. Hadn’t been before and was pleasantly surprised by the main wall. Got on Barguest Direct, which is given hard 7a, and ticked it second attempt even though on that attempt I made such a mess of the start I was pumped like crazy from the 2nd bolt all the way to the top.
The goals so far are not going too well as I’ve not had a chance to get back to Space Race and seemed to miss the decent weather window for Kilnsey but hopefully things should improve soon.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan. Weights is just basic stuff, bench/shoulder press/rows/squats, nothing sport-specific.
M - 4.5 mile flat run, weights.
T - rest
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - 30 min bike ride, 20 min flat run, weights
S - country stroll
Got a new (to me) road bike, hoping to lose a bit of weight and cross-train for running. Plan is to build up sloooowly.
M - 4.5 mile flat run, weights.
T - rest
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - 30 min bike ride, 20 min flat run, weights
S - country stroll
Got a new (to me) road bike, hoping to lose a bit of weight and cross-train for running. Plan is to build up sloooowly.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Daniel.
Slow but steady progress on Fighting Torque this weekend - making a bit of progress every go, even if it is refining a movement here or tweaking a body position there. Having tried it in better conditions, I am actually well psyched for it now, which is good because I think this one is going to be a long haul. As someone pointed out to me, it is really well named - the challenge is all about fighting and holding very torque-y static body positions. The crux is straight out of a good rest and for me boils down to about 10 hand movements, although the hard bits are not actually the hand moves but the changes in body position, body tension and foot moves around them. The stuff around moves 2/3 (throw into the undercuts above your head, match them and graunch your feet up, and somehow manage to clip) is a bit of a stopper, then things ease back for a few moves, until move 9, which is utterly desperate. I have now done it, I think, but only once and only straight off the rope. For those with an interest in the numbers, I think latest estimate is about V5 up to move 3, strenuous clip, V4 ish to move 7, either somehow clip or skip it, then a two move V5 - all that adding up to perhaps 10 moves of V6.
Feels ace to have a proper project again - one that I think I need to make a bit of a strength/fitness gain in order to do. I think my finger strength is ok as it is but stronger shoulders and quite specific core tension are probably going to be the priority over the coming month or so - doing that while managing injury is going to be the challenge.
Goal - FT
M: Biscuit Factory - feeling a bit beaten up. boulder & THB on moon board. Got a bit closer to power/dyno project.
T:
W: Leading. 2x goes on yellow indoor project - sorted out all the clips now, apart from the top which I think I need to skip. high point is the crux cross over.
T: 30 min campus sesh
F:
S: warmed up on Too Many Cooks, then clips up on FT. 4 goes, gradually did all the moves at least once over the course of the day.
S: warmed up on too many cooks, dogged mousefolk, then 3 goes on FT. Spent some time refining the moves from the start of the crux into the twin undercuts - got a good link to here from the ground. Getting feet up and making the clip feels really hard - need to man up a bit too. Feeling pretty beaten up by last go of the day.
Thanks Daniel.
Slow but steady progress on Fighting Torque this weekend - making a bit of progress every go, even if it is refining a movement here or tweaking a body position there. Having tried it in better conditions, I am actually well psyched for it now, which is good because I think this one is going to be a long haul. As someone pointed out to me, it is really well named - the challenge is all about fighting and holding very torque-y static body positions. The crux is straight out of a good rest and for me boils down to about 10 hand movements, although the hard bits are not actually the hand moves but the changes in body position, body tension and foot moves around them. The stuff around moves 2/3 (throw into the undercuts above your head, match them and graunch your feet up, and somehow manage to clip) is a bit of a stopper, then things ease back for a few moves, until move 9, which is utterly desperate. I have now done it, I think, but only once and only straight off the rope. For those with an interest in the numbers, I think latest estimate is about V5 up to move 3, strenuous clip, V4 ish to move 7, either somehow clip or skip it, then a two move V5 - all that adding up to perhaps 10 moves of V6.
Feels ace to have a proper project again - one that I think I need to make a bit of a strength/fitness gain in order to do. I think my finger strength is ok as it is but stronger shoulders and quite specific core tension are probably going to be the priority over the coming month or so - doing that while managing injury is going to be the challenge.
Goal - FT
M: Biscuit Factory - feeling a bit beaten up. boulder & THB on moon board. Got a bit closer to power/dyno project.
T:
W: Leading. 2x goes on yellow indoor project - sorted out all the clips now, apart from the top which I think I need to skip. high point is the crux cross over.
T: 30 min campus sesh
F:
S: warmed up on Too Many Cooks, then clips up on FT. 4 goes, gradually did all the moves at least once over the course of the day.
S: warmed up on too many cooks, dogged mousefolk, then 3 goes on FT. Spent some time refining the moves from the start of the crux into the twin undercuts - got a good link to here from the ground. Getting feet up and making the clip feels really hard - need to man up a bit too. Feeling pretty beaten up by last go of the day.
In reply to AJM: Cheers
4 days cycle commuting plus
Mon: 18k club run plus 40min swim
Tue: 9k run
Wed: 23k club run.
Thu: Rest
Fri: 12k run
Sat: Leeds Park Run, 20.18, fastest 5k of the year, but still slower than I'd like. 67k road biking, legs felt heavy.
Sun: Couple of hours easy climbing at Cadshaw Castle Rocks.
Decent week, but my legs were feeling heavy by the end, and so I missed out on a hill reps session. I definitely think I need a much easier week if my legs are to feel lively for Leeds Half on Sunday. I'm going to be optimistic about it though - I may still be a little off where I'd like to be in pure pace, but hopefully the increase in volume will give me more strength over hm distance than I've had in the past. I'm also just hoping the wind calms down - I seem to attract rather harsh conditions whenever I race a half mara.
Also, it was really nice to get out on the grit. It was a very easy session, largely to introduce H to climbing outside (and she seemed to enjoy it), but quite often it's that sort of thing I like - just lazy days pootling up not very challenging climbs.
4 days cycle commuting plus
Mon: 18k club run plus 40min swim
Tue: 9k run
Wed: 23k club run.
Thu: Rest
Fri: 12k run
Sat: Leeds Park Run, 20.18, fastest 5k of the year, but still slower than I'd like. 67k road biking, legs felt heavy.
Sun: Couple of hours easy climbing at Cadshaw Castle Rocks.
Decent week, but my legs were feeling heavy by the end, and so I missed out on a hill reps session. I definitely think I need a much easier week if my legs are to feel lively for Leeds Half on Sunday. I'm going to be optimistic about it though - I may still be a little off where I'd like to be in pure pace, but hopefully the increase in volume will give me more strength over hm distance than I've had in the past. I'm also just hoping the wind calms down - I seem to attract rather harsh conditions whenever I race a half mara.
Also, it was really nice to get out on the grit. It was a very easy session, largely to introduce H to climbing outside (and she seemed to enjoy it), but quite often it's that sort of thing I like - just lazy days pootling up not very challenging climbs.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
No apologies needed there - thanks for taking the time to make this happen.
Cheers, I was very pleased with myself.
m: Cycling 5.55 km, 5.52 km
t: Cycling 5.50 km, 5.53 km
Trail running 5.01 km
w: Cycling 5.58 km, 1.57 km, 4.85 km
t: Bizarre day, felt a bit tired the night before so didn't set my alarm clock, intending to go in late. Was woken by a phone call up at 1.30pm!
f:
s: 5km parkrun
s:
> Apologies for the late post, just came back from climbing in Pembroke.
No apologies needed there - thanks for taking the time to make this happen.
> Hokkyokusei – Cracking, well done.
Cheers, I was very pleased with myself.
m: Cycling 5.55 km, 5.52 km
t: Cycling 5.50 km, 5.53 km
Trail running 5.01 km
w: Cycling 5.58 km, 1.57 km, 4.85 km
t: Bizarre day, felt a bit tired the night before so didn't set my alarm clock, intending to go in late. Was woken by a phone call up at 1.30pm!
f:
s: 5km parkrun
s:
In reply to richardh
Bloody hell !
Hope your head is OK.
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/spot-a-bad-bolt
not aimed at you just a helpful link.
Bloody hell !
Hope your head is OK.
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/spot-a-bad-bolt
not aimed at you just a helpful link.
Hi all
Goal routes for the year
Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).
MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Do a trad road trip over jubilee bank holidays, possibly cornwall.
LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP (any - probably in Portland or on holiday)7b+.
Just got back from Font. There for 4 days but in the end 3 days was enough and we chilled the 4th day. first trip there, had a great time. Nothing that hard done but had fun trying lots of blue / red problems. Also now have to try and complete the Mary Rose when I'm next there. kept trying it, slowly got closer but still a way away.
As is traditional font spanked me and revealed how bad my footwork / sloper work is. That's great however, should be good gains to make with further practice on these.
no outdoors this weekend but hopefully none climbing should quiet down a bit now and I can get some more rhythm indoors at least.
Goal routes for the year
Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).
MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Do a trad road trip over jubilee bank holidays, possibly cornwall.
LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP (any - probably in Portland or on holiday)7b+.
Just got back from Font. There for 4 days but in the end 3 days was enough and we chilled the 4th day. first trip there, had a great time. Nothing that hard done but had fun trying lots of blue / red problems. Also now have to try and complete the Mary Rose when I'm next there. kept trying it, slowly got closer but still a way away.
As is traditional font spanked me and revealed how bad my footwork / sloper work is. That's great however, should be good gains to make with further practice on these.
no outdoors this weekend but hopefully none climbing should quiet down a bit now and I can get some more rhythm indoors at least.
In reply to AJM:
Mon - gym kettle bell & abs
Tues - took car for MOT so walk there and back, about 5 miles in total
Weds - Leeds wall - felt rubbish and absolutely no motivation. Managed to lead a 4+ and 5 then 2nd 5+ x3 and a 5
Thurs - rest
Fri - drove to Wales
Sat - Holyhead mountain. Did 5 routes - v diff and severe. Led 2 routes and 1 pitch. Bit clumpy at first but went ok really, not climbed outside since March and felt much better this time. Forgot how tiring a full day at the crag is!
Sun - out to lleyn peninsula with camera. Walked up to a hill fort then wandered around coast with camera gear. Tired.
Not a bad week, felt good to be climbing outside and not be terrified or frozen with anxiety. My calves have been really tight for a couple of weeks despite stretching. Been worried about pulling them again so been cautious but all the uphill walking seems to have stretched them out a bit.
Mon - gym kettle bell & abs
Tues - took car for MOT so walk there and back, about 5 miles in total
Weds - Leeds wall - felt rubbish and absolutely no motivation. Managed to lead a 4+ and 5 then 2nd 5+ x3 and a 5
Thurs - rest
Fri - drove to Wales
Sat - Holyhead mountain. Did 5 routes - v diff and severe. Led 2 routes and 1 pitch. Bit clumpy at first but went ok really, not climbed outside since March and felt much better this time. Forgot how tiring a full day at the crag is!
Sun - out to lleyn peninsula with camera. Walked up to a hill fort then wandered around coast with camera gear. Tired.
Not a bad week, felt good to be climbing outside and not be terrified or frozen with anxiety. My calves have been really tight for a couple of weeks despite stretching. Been worried about pulling them again so been cautious but all the uphill walking seems to have stretched them out a bit.
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy/Dan
M - Ran home, ~7.5miles (going to measure this accurately at some point!)
T - Nothing
W - Climbing at the Arch - good session, tried some greens/reds I may not otherwise have tried which was good, and a couple of harder problems I was quite pleased with. Did a bit in the tunnel to finish and a set of leg lifts.
T - Ran in, 5.5miles - felt a bit tweaky/achey but once I got going it was ok.
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Short session at the Arch, felt tired and not particularly motivated - should have probably gone for more of a structured training session but just played around on some problems until I got tired! Managed to work out the roof moves on the 7a tunnel problem (again) - hopefully I remember them this time!
Sunday - nothing
M - Ran home, ~7.5miles (going to measure this accurately at some point!)
T - Nothing
W - Climbing at the Arch - good session, tried some greens/reds I may not otherwise have tried which was good, and a couple of harder problems I was quite pleased with. Did a bit in the tunnel to finish and a set of leg lifts.
T - Ran in, 5.5miles - felt a bit tweaky/achey but once I got going it was ok.
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Short session at the Arch, felt tired and not particularly motivated - should have probably gone for more of a structured training session but just played around on some problems until I got tired! Managed to work out the roof moves on the 7a tunnel problem (again) - hopefully I remember them this time!
Sunday - nothing
In reply to AJM:
STG: Get-up a 6c or e2 (even dogged).
MTG: Get-up a 6c or e2 (even dogged).
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(1). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(45)
Fat %: 11.0
Focus: Hypertrophy (1/3)
Mon: Push-ups & pull-ups. Core
Tue: VIR Bouldering (to V8)
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Repeaters.
Fri: Core.
Sat: ARC. Repeaters
Sun: Trad @ Gardoms (max HVS)
Work got in the way of training a bit this week. Good session on Tuesday, got a few extra V5 & V6 problems more than I need to complete my pyramid. Going well on the repeaters (new PB on Saturday). Not going so well climbing outside. First trading of the year on Sunday. Tried leading Moyer's at the end of the day but bugged out before even trying the crux, disappointing...
So in summary, training is going really well, strength & technique are improving, but my climbing is a bit pants. Fingers crossed for some improvement this week.
STG: Get-up a 6c or e2 (even dogged).
MTG: Get-up a 6c or e2 (even dogged).
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(1). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(45)
Fat %: 11.0
Focus: Hypertrophy (1/3)
Mon: Push-ups & pull-ups. Core
Tue: VIR Bouldering (to V8)
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Repeaters.
Fri: Core.
Sat: ARC. Repeaters
Sun: Trad @ Gardoms (max HVS)
Work got in the way of training a bit this week. Good session on Tuesday, got a few extra V5 & V6 problems more than I need to complete my pyramid. Going well on the repeaters (new PB on Saturday). Not going so well climbing outside. First trading of the year on Sunday. Tried leading Moyer's at the end of the day but bugged out before even trying the crux, disappointing...
So in summary, training is going really well, strength & technique are improving, but my climbing is a bit pants. Fingers crossed for some improvement this week.
In reply to leon:
Don't worry. Dave Mac reckons that increased strength takes time to be adapted into your technique. Basically your mind doesn't yet know that your body is stronger so on trad you still brick yourself. Or you know you're strong so you try to overcome moves with that and forget your technique. It takes a while for the two to work together. I also reckon it's the technique and mental transition from indoor to outdoor
I had a pb across the board on the BM yesterday. Bouldered outside today for the first time in about 6 mths and got nowhere. It was a really bad session. The reason being i haven't done it for a while so recruitment/power/timing/outdoor technique and really giving 100% have all been lost.
I was really optimistic if crushing while i was driving there and very annoyed after. Your post has reminded me not to stress, it'll come back and hopefully then move on a level due to the stronger fingers. Same for you as this was your first day tradding for 2012.
Keep smiling :0)
Don't worry. Dave Mac reckons that increased strength takes time to be adapted into your technique. Basically your mind doesn't yet know that your body is stronger so on trad you still brick yourself. Or you know you're strong so you try to overcome moves with that and forget your technique. It takes a while for the two to work together. I also reckon it's the technique and mental transition from indoor to outdoor
I had a pb across the board on the BM yesterday. Bouldered outside today for the first time in about 6 mths and got nowhere. It was a really bad session. The reason being i haven't done it for a while so recruitment/power/timing/outdoor technique and really giving 100% have all been lost.
I was really optimistic if crushing while i was driving there and very annoyed after. Your post has reminded me not to stress, it'll come back and hopefully then move on a level due to the stronger fingers. Same for you as this was your first day tradding for 2012.
Keep smiling :0)
In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy/Daniel
Two indoor sessions for me this week
Sun: 5, 6a, 6a, 6a, 6b (dogged) 6a+ (failed and still couldn't do on TR )
Thu: 6a, 6b (same as above but had to grab one 'wrong' hold - but almost there), 6a+ - dogged, had really hard time reading sequence.
So at the moment onsight 6a is possible (but not probable), 6a+/6b is within reach with work and 6b+/6c is like the far side of the moon. Need to pick upthe fall practice again, or probably better climb routes without being allowed to 'take' so I get used to falls for real.
Hopefully grit next Fri...
Two indoor sessions for me this week
Sun: 5, 6a, 6a, 6a, 6b (dogged) 6a+ (failed and still couldn't do on TR )
Thu: 6a, 6b (same as above but had to grab one 'wrong' hold - but almost there), 6a+ - dogged, had really hard time reading sequence.
So at the moment onsight 6a is possible (but not probable), 6a+/6b is within reach with work and 6b+/6c is like the far side of the moon. Need to pick upthe fall practice again, or probably better climb routes without being allowed to 'take' so I get used to falls for real.
Hopefully grit next Fri...
In reply to biscuit:
cheers biscuit. think you are right about it being my first day tradding and my head not being in it. went to lakes this wednesday and had a fantastic day which i think/hope has properly kick started my trad head for 2012.
cheers biscuit. think you are right about it being my first day tradding and my head not being in it. went to lakes this wednesday and had a fantastic day which i think/hope has properly kick started my trad head for 2012.
In reply to leon:
Nice one. Where did you go ?
I am starting to pine for the Lakes as i shall be back there next month.
Nice one. Where did you go ?
I am starting to pine for the Lakes as i shall be back there next month.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...