In reply to Offwidth:
>I'd expect better than the following disingenuous nonsense from a lawyer, experienced guidebook activist and climber:
"There seems to be a school of thought different to mine which holds that bolts pop all the time, it's no big deal and the punters clip bolts at their own risk. I hadn't previously appreciated this. "
You think, do you?
Strong words on your part, albeit unfortunately totally misinformed.
Check out the UKB thread on this subject (I would link but AJ's software won't let one), and in particular the observations I quote below from petejh, who I believe is a prominent North Wales re-equipper.
"Place enough bolts and you will place some bad ones. Rolling eyes are a tosser's response. It happens more often than the punter ignorant of equipping/reequipping realises and most of the time, thankfully, nobody gets hurt.
Dangerous game climbing"
">He's done it before and a friend decked out. Doing it once is bad enough.
..
That's unfortunate but it happens."
">I clip into bolts after placing them and jiggle around on them. I'm pretty lax and impractical but didnt need IRATA training to think of doing that.
...
You might. There are valid resons why that isn't always (or even often) done though - one is the cure time required for glue-in bolts, around an hour, and the unavoidable thing called 'life' which presses on your time. Standard practice is to do test blobs at start and finish and if these are ok it's a good indication that all the bolts in between are ok. You'd think that would be good enough but I've pulled the first bolt out of a route after re-equipping with glue-ins - the rope coming tight from the belayer whilst I was lowering off the route after climbing it being enough to pull the bolt out; both test blobs had set perfectly; go figure. I was obviously blindly trusting that it would be ok. Test blobs at every bolt is not practical nor good for the state of the route, and would use up more glue. All the active re-equippers I know in North Wales have had glue-in bolts not properly set on them despite following a sensible procedure.
Don't blindly trust bolts unless you're a sheep."
Rather striking observations, I thought. I'll await your apology.
Meanwhile, I'd be interested to hear what some other punters ignorant of re-equipping think, or perhaps even some sheep.
jcm