/ quickdraw clipping techniques
i wouldn't really say i had much of technique really, other than get the rope clipped as quick as possible. i've looked at a few, practised at home and then not been able to transfer to real life situations.
any tips, techniques or ideas gratefully recieved. i'm sure i'm not the only one!
Hold rope between thumb and index finger, stick middle finger through quickdraw and pull your fingers together. Nice and easy :-)
> Hold rope between thumb and index finger, stick middle finger through quickdraw and pull your fingers together. Nice and easy :-)
That's the one I use when gate is facing the opposite way to the hand I'm using (rope in right hand, gate facing left). It's a bit different when using the left hand for a left facing gate.
What I did was set up a hanging quickdraw at home and practice clipping with either hand for both gate directions until I had it nice and slick.
(But that might be a bit geeky for some!)
Interestingly younger competition-bred climbers do something different to what I do and they seem to be pretty efficient so watching videos of them climbing might give you some tips. Look on Robbie Phillips' webpage and vimeo account as he videos a lot of strong young climbers.
In the first (gate facing twoards the clipping arm) you use your middle and index finger to push the rope through, with your thumb along the back of the caribiner (but don't pass your fingers through, only the rope).
In the second (gate away from the clipping arm) you use your crook of your thumb to push the rope through, with your other fingers along the spine of the caribiner for support. I need to practice this, it doesn't seem that intuitive not to just put your fingers through the krab in the process...
There is the index finger clip (already described) which is generally used when the direction the gate faces is opposite to the hand clipping. This is one of the smoothest ways to clip.
There is then the thumb clip which is useful for carabiners in the opposite orientation. Here the rope is held over the fingers, the thumb steadies the backbar of the krab and the whole hand basically squeezes the rope into the krab. This actually describes numerous variations on a theme, but the point in common is that the thumb goes to the backbar to enable a squeezing motion.
Other than that, it is a very personal thing and the best option is just watch other people, practice and see what works.
I don't know what grade you climb, but I suspect that what is limiting your progression is not your ability to clip but your body position and state of mind when you are trying to clip. Are you really in the most restful position when making the clip ? are you panicking about falling before you clip ?
Buy some retro mambas, you can't go wrong. They do the work for you!
> I don't know what grade you climb, but I suspect that what is limiting your progression is not your ability to clip but your body position and state of mind when you are trying to clip. Are you really in the most restful position when making the clip ? are you panicking about falling before you clip ?
These are all important points, but sometimes it does just boil down to good technique. We've all had times that we've fumbled the clip and if the route setter hasn't been friendly in placing a good hold to clip from or you've missed it, it can make a difference on a route.
One exercise you can do is to set up a couple of draws facing in different directions and practice clipping both right and left handed. TBH I'd never really thought that much about it until I did CWLA last year and it's practice...can even make a game of it for young people by seeing who can do it fastest when instructions are called out.
pages 119 onwards
IMHO, whipclipping is probably the best way to clip a qucikdraw. Practice this exlusively. Sure it may get hard on slabs, but the girls love it.
What, then you fall off and they unclip and you die. Super.
> What, then you fall off and they unclip and you die. Super.
Erm, what a load of bollox.
Gets stuck where?! In the gate? Under the rope or do you have enormous fingers? ;-)
> Are you really in the most restful position when making the clip ? are you panicking about falling before you clip ?
probably and yes respectively. you are right, but i think if i was more confident about clipping the rope in first time my state of mind would be better. but it is certainly psychological
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