In reply to JonC:
> (In reply to doogie)
>
> I think that's fair comment on it's own but I do find it a bit objectionable how most of the negative posts are by people, like you, wiith new (almost no posting history) virtually anonymous profiles (no names, profile pics etc).
We all have a right to remain anonymous, I can’t see what difference it makes on this feed. In fact the anonymity of its posters is very Important, I personally find the wall manager difficult and intimidating to communicate my thoughts, regarding bear rock. I have created this feed, my first ever feed, as I am at an end at to what to do. If this feed promotes others to come out of the UKC wood work, then it must feel worthwhile for them to do so. Many others, including myself have already taken more conventional means to communicate our frustration to the BR manager. As already mentioned it appears to have fallen on deaf ears. If you know of any other way to collectively gather the thoughts of climbers, then please let us know.
This feed is not a means of going behind the bear rock managers back, this feed is public and open to every man and his dog. I will be the first to raise my hand as the instigator. The bear rock manager will know exactly who I am through my user name, as I’m sure many others do.
JonC , I think you are bringing some fantastic views to the debate, it offers another great view point. Please don’t be offended if we’re quick to reply to your posts. I’ve been told the BR manager is away until next Thursday. Judging by the volume of people reading this feed and the feedback from those on the wall floor, BR staff are aware of these posts.
I wouldn’t just stop at saying only the top “5%” of climbers are miss catered for. I’ve been frequenting bear rock for the last 15years, historically its played an important part in hard and competition climbing in the UK. Today, I’m not so sure. And I’m not sure others who want to push their grade are getting the quality of route they need to make great improvements. I don’t just mean in the high 7’s and 8’s. It does however cater for people who do not want to climb above 6c.
I don’t want to attack or offend the resident route setters, they are all good people, delightful characters and I consider them good friends. I can understand some of the difficulties they face when setting routes at BR. Unfortunately it appears I’m cracking eggs to make an omelette.
It’s obvious that the turnover of the wall will not be as high if it was for only 5% of its climbers. That’s just absurd. But, 5% on an estimated 150 lines = 8 routes. I’ll be happy if I had 5 good hard routes to play on, and I’m sure others will agree. If the dozen people I know who have left, who were willing to climb those 5 routes, they brought in £300 worth of annual subscription each. For BR, that should make good business sense, lose 5 easy lines with negligible effect on revenue and gain a dozen annual subscriptions in return for 5 hard lines? It makes sense to me.
Maybe I’m biased towards the higher grade climbs but when I was climbing in the 6’s I would always look up and see this mystical 8a collecting dust on the comp wall, thinking does anyone climb such impossible looking lines. Thinking how amazing it would be to actually climb such a route. For me the presence of such an intimating line gave me aspirations as a younger climber. Over the last 2 years I have sent every 8a BR had to offer and I enjoyed every battle. Last week, in one session, I got an amazing 8a+ at pinnacle set by an independent route setter down to one rest. I’ve never been so driven by such an exhilarating line. And I’ll not be stopping at 8a+. For me, aspirations have been the key to reaching this level, and these routes need to remain, encouraging other younger climbers to keep on sticking at it. I can envision more than “5%” of the climbers benefiting from these hard routes, in more ways than one.
Don’t think 8a’s are super routes, they’re not. I can climb at this level and yet I still only came 4th in a midlands leading competition. I still get my ass handed to me by these young whippa snappers. I can go to repoint and get burnt off by exceptionally talented guys with absurdly strong fingers. I went on a recent trip to Font as a party of 12 and I was the weakest in the group by far. Climbing F8a is no longer for the minority. With easy availability of training information and booming finger board sales, the level of UK climbing has moved on massively since I first started climbing 18 years ago and it continues to rise. The level of routes offered by other indoor venues are meeting the demand. Bear rock should not be regressing, especial for what the university of Warwick stands for.