/ What rubber do you wear and why?
From my own experience I have used the Vibram of Scarpa which I didn't get on with felt it didn't suit my technically rubbish climbing style (ha)
I then went with Evolv and found them to be 'stickier' the zenith of all the rubbers seem to be the stealth rubber of Five ten but is it all horses for courses.
Obviously the set up of the shoe, technical level, whether its build specifically for slabs, smearing, steep etc however each brand has a competitor for each level so I want to know what people consider the best rubber (Regardlessn of the shoe) and why.
These are some for consideration:
Scarpas/ Eldrid/ La Sportiva – Vibram XS
Five Tens – Stealth/ Onyx
Evolv – Trax
Boreal – Zenith Rubber
Red Chili – F1 rubber
Oh. Climbing shoes......
wanders off looking for smut elsewhere............
I've owned Scarpa, Sportiva and Boreal and not really noticed any difference between them as far as the "stickiness" goes - more from fit and sensitivity.
The Mythos were great when they were new, but have now stretched and have been resoled and are the ones I can wear all day and use for instructing and easier or slabbier routes.
My Lasers were, until I lost them, the tighter fitting, less sloppy ones I chose for harder routes and ones requiring more edging and more "accuracy" of foot placement. Certainly an element of psychology in knowing I wasn't wearing my comfy old carpet slippers on an E3!
When I used to work in a climbing shop, I got asked this a lot and used to advise that people should buy them based more on what actually fits their feet than what the hype says in the comics, as there are vastly different lasts between makes and models.
It used to be rumoured that even climbers sponsored by other brands used to send their shoes off to be resoled in Stealth rubber, but I'm not convinced that most mortals would really notice much difference, apart from in the rigidity of the shoes, as a whole, and that, perhaps, lending itself slightly to certain types of routes. Beginners with feet that aren't used to the strain could benefit from stiffer shoes, experienced climbers with stronger feet should be able to climb in anything.
Temperature is a big factor in shoe performance, so you'll feel different in a hot summer to a cold day, but I havne't got time to start on that!
5.10 anasazi verde 'greens' with stealth onyx rubber are immense. Never switching from them ever. They last forever and are stupidly sticky and extremely supportive.
Stealthy Onyx are the most durable and sticky rubber on the market. The perfect combination.
Odd thread title, but anyway...
The best rubber is Stealth HF, no question about it.
Second best is Vibram XS grip but I've never used C4 which seems to get good reviews, as they only use it on the whites (which are a bit of a stiff shoe for me).
Had them for one-and-a-half years and three years respectively and the rubber on the soles of both pairs seems to be lasting reasonably well, not splitting round the edge or coming away from the shoe. The rubber on the Vmiles is rather worn on and under the big toe point and is starting to develop cracks in the rubber round the point so will probably be looking to replace soon. I find the rubber on my Anasazi's seems very grippy, although I do make the effort to keep them as clean as possible which I think helps. Have used various other brands in the past but will probably stick with FiveTen next time I have to replace a pair of shoes, just seems to work for my feet.
I did when I got a pair of lasers resoled in Stealth, they were much better.
I like Stealth and I like Scarpa. Tend to find Scarpa is better for climbing on Grantite and rough stuff and prefer 5.10 for limestone.
Durex in Europe
Trojan in the States
They are all good rubbers.
As you can see you can´t get a answer on such a question as everyone has his favorite.
5.10 (any) always lasted longer than any vibram rubber when using them only outdoors but i never noticed a difference in grip. nearly every brand has one for edging and gripping thats the biggest difference but you can get both from stealth and vibram. Softer rubbers always "creep" around small limestone edges (especially in summer) so keep that in mind when you´re looking for a super sticky sole.
if you belive that your shoes have the best rubber in the world you will climb as they have. its just in your head.
I only ever use vibram, purely because I've never found another manufacturer's shoe that fits my foot as well as La Sportivas. I prefer a sensitive shoe, so I love the 3mm XS grip2 on the speedsters.
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