/ NEWS: Strawberries Onsighted And More - The Odyssey
The four talented climbers have been ticking hard routes, and it seems their pace hasn't been slowed by damp weather at a few of their venues.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67142
no news then.
wake me up when somebody onsights The Indian Face
I'm sure I should know this, but who made the second onsight of Strawberries, then?
I agree whenever someone claims they have done a ridiculously hard route they should have to attempt to onsight the Indian face just to prove that they are actually that good.
Agreed. The Whole thing is just one jaw dislocating yawn. Yawn. zzzzzz.
Rather goes to show that good climbers tend to be pretty good at most disciplines.
> no news then.
> wake me up when somebody onsights The Indian Face
Wake me up when you onsight it on a top rope.
> Wake me up when you onsight it on a top rope.
I doubt he would even dog it on a top rope. He is just an internet moaner and nothing is ever good enough. Probably makes him feel better about his own climbing insecurities.
Trying to remember the name of a bouldering film from a few years back. Featured Ben Moon, Moffat, Malc Smith and others on a trip to somewhere. Ben about 10 years since I saw it, but they went to (Cresciano?, Magic Wood?) and it rained, they climbed nowt, yet it made quite a good documentary all the same.
My point is, the film could yet be good.
Stone Love was a terrible film, unlike The Real Thing which had all the ingredients of a top bouldering movie: doing doughnuts in left-hand drive cars, visits to paris night clubs, weird fantasy sequences involving metalwork, snowball fights, and even some climbing. They don't make them like that anymore.
I think it's great that people go to the trouble of filming their exploits for whatever reason commercial or otherwise, but it must take something out of the whole lonely experience of leading soul searching routes like the Cad to have a bunch of camera men hanging right next to you...kind of like having a fixed line ready and waiting if you get my drift?
TBF this sort of thread is always a bit like a bunch of sunday league footballers discussing Torres' performance at Chelsea. They're not necessarily saying they could have done better themselves...
I think we're maybe suffering from the fact that JP's been doing so much industrial-grade waddage recently that we're half expecting him to onsight Echo Wall in trainers as soon as he gets back on British trad, and anything less seems slightly anticlimactic!
But they've got a few days to go yet, so maybe they're saving that for the end...
Some top stuff being done, in any case.
And speaking of top stuff getting done:
It might take something away from the experience, but that's what being a pro climber is I guess. I don't think it makes things easy. If a hold snaps then you're just as stuffed. It would make bailing easier, but that's about it.
All those saying Pylon King couldn't dog Indian face should just STFU, he is modestly lying about his achievements UKC, I've seen him tank multiple 8a's at a range of crags in the past and make it look relatively easy.
Agreed, The Cad has had many ascents and is fairly stable these days, however given the pure strength of some folk climbing today there is a chance that they could pull the holds off ; ) However, I think you underestimate the mental effect of having a hanging rope next to you when leading a scary route. It takes a solid constitution to head out into the unknown with the thought that one might not be able to reverse what you've just climbed.
When there is nobody else nearby, you can't be wimpy and call for a rescue (unless you want to hang out where you are for like an hour anyways and that usually isnt practicable) so the option to chicken out isn't there. Also means when you start the route, you don't go up with a halfarsed "well, I can get clipped in if I get too pumped on the runout bit", you start with complete commitment.
I recon it makes you more likely to succeed. But then I guess other people will have a different thought process when approaching climbs near their limit.
The pitch in the video, as I remember when I did the route years ago, is about E2 maybe E3. It's the first pitch that has the meat.
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