/ NEWS: Strawberries Onsighted And More - The Odyssey

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UKC News - on 21 May 2012
Hansjorg Auer onsighting Strawberries, Tremadog, 3 kbBritish climbers James Pearson and Hazel Findlay have teamed up with Austrian Hansjorg Auer and Caroline Ciavaldini of France for a two week road trip around Britain.

The four talented climbers have been ticking hard routes, and it seems their pace hasn't been slowed by damp weather at a few of their venues.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67142

nature boy - on 21 May 2012
In reply to UKC News: Bit of a tease with the Cad video.
The Pylon King on 21 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:

no news then.

wake me up when somebody onsights The Indian Face
johncoxmysteriously - on 21 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:

I'm sure I should know this, but who made the second onsight of Strawberries, then?

jcm
Quarryboy - on 21 May 2012
In reply to Formerly Known as Pylon King:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9TI4KkLkZU&feature=relmfu

0:55

I agree whenever someone claims they have done a ridiculously hard route they should have to attempt to onsight the Indian face just to prove that they are actually that good.
Peter Walker on 21 May 2012
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Jorg Verhoeven.
birdie num num - on 22 May 2012
In reply to Formerly Known as Pylon King:
Agreed. The Whole thing is just one jaw dislocating yawn. Yawn. zzzzzz.
birdie num num - on 22 May 2012
In reply to Formerly Known as Pylon King:
zzzzzzzzzz
bigglesbutcha - on 22 May 2012
In reply to UKC News: A few of us were climbing opposite Caroline Ciavaldini when she was leading E6 on Saturday at Huntmans Leap. Very impressive considering she's not done much Trad. Was chatting to a bloke at the top (I think he said he was from Climber mag), and her second trad route was E8. Well done to her I say. It was inspiring.
GrahamD - on 22 May 2012
In reply to bigglesbutcha:

Rather goes to show that good climbers tend to be pretty good at most disciplines.
3 Names - on 22 May 2012
In reply to Formerly Known as Pylon King:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> no news then.
>
> wake me up when somebody onsights The Indian Face

Wake me up when you onsight it on a top rope.

Adam Lincoln - on 22 May 2012
In reply to Vince McNally:
> (In reply to Formerly Known as Pylon King)
> [...]
>
> Wake me up when you onsight it on a top rope.

I doubt he would even dog it on a top rope. He is just an internet moaner and nothing is ever good enough. Probably makes him feel better about his own climbing insecurities.

3 Names - on 22 May 2012
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

yep
mav - on 22 May 2012
In reply to birdie num num:
Trying to remember the name of a bouldering film from a few years back. Featured Ben Moon, Moffat, Malc Smith and others on a trip to somewhere. Ben about 10 years since I saw it, but they went to (Cresciano?, Magic Wood?) and it rained, they climbed nowt, yet it made quite a good documentary all the same.
My point is, the film could yet be good.
gritstoner - on 22 May 2012
In reply to mav:

Stone Love
dyfed on 22 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Stone Love was a terrible film, unlike The Real Thing which had all the ingredients of a top bouldering movie: doing doughnuts in left-hand drive cars, visits to paris night clubs, weird fantasy sequences involving metalwork, snowball fights, and even some climbing. They don't make them like that anymore.
Craig Smith on 23 May 2012 - l-mid4416.smith.man.ac.uk
In reply to UKC News:

I think it's great that people go to the trouble of filming their exploits for whatever reason commercial or otherwise, but it must take something out of the whole lonely experience of leading soul searching routes like the Cad to have a bunch of camera men hanging right next to you...kind of like having a fixed line ready and waiting if you get my drift?
Ramblin dave - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Vince McNally:
TBF this sort of thread is always a bit like a bunch of sunday league footballers discussing Torres' performance at Chelsea. They're not necessarily saying they could have done better themselves...

I think we're maybe suffering from the fact that JP's been doing so much industrial-grade waddage recently that we're half expecting him to onsight Echo Wall in trainers as soon as he gets back on British trad, and anything less seems slightly anticlimactic!

But they've got a few days to go yet, so maybe they're saving that for the end...

Some top stuff being done, in any case.
Ramblin dave - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Ramblin dave:
And speaking of top stuff getting done:
http://hotaches.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/jackal-e8-sequence.html
mattrm - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Craig Smith:

It might take something away from the experience, but that's what being a pro climber is I guess. I don't think it makes things easy. If a hold snaps then you're just as stuffed. It would make bailing easier, but that's about it.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Quarryboy - on 23 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:

All those saying Pylon King couldn't dog Indian face should just STFU, he is modestly lying about his achievements UKC, I've seen him tank multiple 8a's at a range of crags in the past and make it look relatively easy.
Craig Smith on 23 May 2012 - l-mid4416.smith.man.ac.uk
In reply to UKC News:


Agreed, The Cad has had many ascents and is fairly stable these days, however given the pure strength of some folk climbing today there is a chance that they could pull the holds off ; ) However, I think you underestimate the mental effect of having a hanging rope next to you when leading a scary route. It takes a solid constitution to head out into the unknown with the thought that one might not be able to reverse what you've just climbed.

3 Names - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Quarryboy:

Classic.
henwardian - on 23 May 2012
In reply to UKC News: Got to say, I think having someone next to you would make on-sighting a hard bold route harder not easier. I've had successes and failures on routes that had scarey runouts where I would have told a cameraman to come rescue me if he had been hanging right there when I was on the scarey section.
When there is nobody else nearby, you can't be wimpy and call for a rescue (unless you want to hang out where you are for like an hour anyways and that usually isnt practicable) so the option to chicken out isn't there. Also means when you start the route, you don't go up with a halfarsed "well, I can get clipped in if I get too pumped on the runout bit", you start with complete commitment.
I recon it makes you more likely to succeed. But then I guess other people will have a different thought process when approaching climbs near their limit.
GuyVG - on 23 May 2012
In reply to Craig Smith:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxJ8YChiQxE

Ain't no Cameraman hanging there
Craig Smith on 24 May 2012 - l-mid4416.smith.man.ac.uk
In reply to GuyVG:

The pitch in the video, as I remember when I did the route years ago, is about E2 maybe E3. It's the first pitch that has the meat.

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