UKC

Heading up to the Lakes this week, very promising forecast.

Tomorrow and Thursday I'm thinking of trying some routes on some high, north-facing crags. Do you think that Saxon, Ichabod and others will be dry? I'm hanging around so could wait 'til the weekend to be sure, providing it holds.

What about Flat Crags up on Bowfell? Guidebook indicates it should be dry, is it quite clean and OK for not getting very scared on filthy rock?

Thanks,
Jon

In reply to Jon Stewart: It's baking up here at the moment so pretty safe bet all crags will be dry

In reply to A Mountain Journey: Oh yes!

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I would imagine Ichabod is a much better bet than Saxon Jon. Gets the morning sun too!

Saxon seeps badly and I would be very surprised if it had dried out yet, even with reports of 'baking' weather.

It is also well worth waiting for properly dry conditions for maximum enjoyment!

(Any locals who disagree, please feel free to chip in...).

Neil

In reply to Neil Foster:

Agreed, it takes more than a day of warm weather to dry Scafell properly and a bit more again to get the crack on Saxon to dry out, especially after the weather over the last month or so. There'll be other stuff to go at though.

To the OP: Flat Crags ain't exactly Stanage Popular End so you'll have a bit of lichen to contend with in places. From memory the bottom groove of Fastburn is a little bit lichenous, this might hold dampness for a day or two as well. If it stays like it is though I'd expect conditions to be top notch coming up to the weekend.

In reply to Pagan:

Cheers guys - might wait for the weekend for an attempt at Saxon.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Was on Lower Swirl Crag last night which is pretty low and west facing. The rock was good and dry but there was still seepage in a couple of spots.

In reply to Jon Stewart: It's been baking all week and it's set to continue. It would have to be one wet crag to not be dry by now. Supposed to hit 24 degrees in Keswick today.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

As posted earlier, Ichabod more likely to be dry, Saxon less so. Seeing as you walk underneath Saxon to get to Ichabod, go anyway. Go (very)early to make the most of the morning sun, grab a few hours kip at Mickledore in the afternoon then catch the evening sun on Scafell.

In reply to Jon Stewart:
There has been weeks of rain up here.
The crack of Saxon will be greasy, no doubt.
The main pitch of Ichabod will be dry; but the upper mossy groove will be damp.
There's an easterly breeze forecast; therefore it will blow directly across any north facing crag. Take something warm and windproof.

Best of luck

In reply to Jon Stewart: B*****d! That's why you're not keen for peak limestone this week!

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I can't comment on the routes condition directly, but I can report that on Sunday, the stream was still flowing in White Ghyll (appearing about 2/3 of the way up between the low wall where the Ghyll is entered and the 'gearing up boulder') which should give some idea of how moist the ground was. In fact a lot of the streams seemed quite high plus the going was distinctly 'succulent' heading from the top of White Ghyll towards Pavey.

I don't know how effective that Easterly is going to be at drying stuff out...

PP.

I see someone ticked Great Eastern Route and Botterill's today - anyone got any info on conditions?

In reply to PontiusPirate: did we bump into you at the crag? Were you doing an enchainment as prep for a Dolomites trip? Tony and me showed you the walk down. Hope you had a good day (especially if you ended up on a ledge in the dark on Pavey!).

In reply to Jon Stewart: Although not comparable to Scafell, i can suggest Neckband as being just as excellent as it looks in the guide and judging by the posts it sounds like it will be dry.

If theres folk reading who've fancied going, give it a shot. Not too far to bail to anywhere else either...

In reply to Karl Lunt:

<hijack>

Hi Karl - yep we were doing an enchainment for training purposes - I'm the one with the goatee - whereabouts did we bump into you, I presume White Ghyll above the lower tier?

We had an excellent day thanks - though we ended 40 mins behind schedule - had been aiming to be back at the pub by 7. I'm just glad I'll be climbing with a smaller rucksack in the Dolomites, the change in balance and just general induced faff factor was somewhat irritating (though no unexpected!)

Did you guys have a good day?

</hijack>

PP.

In reply to PontiusPirate: we met the two of you on Whitegill Crag - think you were just off the top of Moss Wall. Not a bad day although I've noticed that certain routes are definitely getting steeper ....

In reply to Karl Lunt:

Steeper eh? You should try things with 4 kilos of rucksack to upset your balance!
(It was rather instructive - I've done winter/alpine stuff with a rucksack, but never something as steep as Moss Wall or the crux pitch of Gordian Knot!)

PP.

In reply to Al Phizacklea and all:

Thanks again. Got up on Scafell, did some classic routes including Ichabod and Saxon on Sunday. By that stage of course the Saxon crack was perfectly dry (well above the bit that clearly never dries) - but I still found it very tricky. Brilliant route though; has been the thing at the top of my ticklist for years. It didn't disappoint.

Looking back up at the evening sun on Scafell crag, after you've done a big route there has to be the greatest sight England has to offer a climber. A magical place, I can't wait until next time.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Surely you haven't had a full Scafell day if you are looking back at it in the sun