/ New rcok shoe for bouldering (and indoor routes)

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Flinticus - on 24 May 2012
Well, my Red Chillis are really worn down and a slit has appeared in both toes.

What should I be considering if I am looking for an intermediate bouldering shoe (I'm climbing about Font 6a+ /6B (Jesus! Still after a year at this grade!!), comfortable enough for routes on the wall as well.

I know all the stuff about what fits best & each foot is different etc but I just want to narrow down the search and cut out the beginner shoes / advanced claw like ones.
mkean - on 24 May 2012
In reply to Flinticus:
What shape are your feet?
The Ex-Engineer - on 24 May 2012
In reply to Flinticus: Evolv Bandits if you want a decent lace up suitable for all climbing. Evolv Defy if you fancy a comfortable velcro with very grippy rubber on the softer side. Evolv Pontas II if you want a stiffer velcro.
Flinticus - on 24 May 2012
In reply to mkean:
I'd say broad, with a big toes (my street shoe size is 11 / 11.5)!
harrytonge - on 24 May 2012
In reply to Flinticus: I've got Fiveten Anasazi laceups at the moment, been really impressed with them for bouldering and routes. I'm an 11 and have big toes also, and they fit me comfortably
mkean - on 24 May 2012
In reply to Flinticus:
Fairly square across the toes or noticable pointed? Got much of an arch?
Do you like stiff shoes or soft ones? Velcro, laces or slippers?

Soft and broad : Evolve Defy (velcro)
Stiff and broad: 5.10 Galileo (Velcro)
Stiff and reasonably broad: Anasazi Verde (lace)
Reasonably stiff and reasonably broad: Anasazi VCS (velcro)

I've got broad feet, squarish toes and really high arches. I'm a size 12.5 in trainers/ shoes.

Defy - Comfy out of the box in size 11, stretched a fair bit.

Anasazi Verde - Comfy out of the box in size 11, I get numb feet if I really crank down the laces though.

Galileos - size 11.5, took a lot of breaking in but comfy very quickly.

Anasazi VCS - 11.5 took about a session before they were comfy, I think 5.10 were going through a bit of a QC issue when I brought these as the sizing was all over the shop!

Boreal Spiders - Crippled my little toes, unwearable

Red chillis - will have a ton of dead space around the big to if they are large enough to get the rest of my foot in. Matadors probably fit my feet best but are pretty downturned!

5.10 teams, dragons, blackwings - Can't get my feet in them.

Anasazi v2s (blancos) - too narrow across the toes, pinch my little toes something rotten and stiffer than a viagra OD so probably won't give!

Sportiva katanas - Comfy as they gave so fast you could watch the fabric stretch!

Sportiva Muira velcro - couldn't keep my feet in them long enough to see if they'd go "a bit katana" as they pinched my little toes.

5.10 anasazi arrowheads - more like a downturned anasazi white and don't fit my feet.

Boreal Joker - nominally fit my feet but for some reason are horridly uncomfortable. Always gave the disconcerting feeling that there was a game of chinese whispers between my foot and the rock, they've subsequently stretched so much I can wear a couple of pairs of socks with them to make them comfy!
saffy - on 24 May 2012
In reply to mkean: second 5.10 galileos for indoor and verdes for grit.

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