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Topic - Crevasse Rescue

sweenyt - on 27 May 2012
Hi all,

Quick question about crevasse rescue...
firstly I fully understand how to perform the 'standard' rescue, with 2 people on a rope, both have coils and one fall in.

But what happens with 3 on a rope?

As I understand it (not done much/anything with 3 on a rope) the middle person will be tied it using a larks foot/overhand/fig 8? Is this right or is there a clever way of all 3 taking coils?

If so, assume it all goes wrong and the front 2 fall in a hole. If the back person then sets up the anchor and z haul, and begins hoisting, what happens when the first person comes out? How do you by pass them to allow you to keep hauling and not risk either dropping the final person or the middle guy being pulled back in?

Or if just the first goes in, how do you set up the system with the middle person being in the way and not having coils?

I'm hoping if push came to shove I could work something out, but its always nice to know that a, you've set everything up in a way that makes your life easier and b, that you're approaching it in something like the 'correct' way.

Oh, also, and sorry if this is a dumb question, but I've seen people with a prussik attached to the rope in front of them at all times when moving on glaciated terrain. Why is this and what is it attached to? I did a conville course a few years ago and don't remember being taught this, just wondered what its use is.

Many thanks,

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