/ Meshach- tremadog

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Martin Wing - on 27 May 2012
I climbed meshach at tremadog yesterday, im not sure i went the right way on pitch 2. Iv serched the forums and im still not sure where i went.
At the peg i went straight up for a few metres which felt pretty hard and fingery. Then i traversed right maybe 2 metres, then straight up with a long reach to a small flake, topping out at the highest point of the crag. It felt pretty bold and hard for hvs 5a.
Any one know if this is the right route?
tobykeep - on 27 May 2012
In reply to Martin Wing:

Don't think so, you go pretty hard right from the peg. Can't remember what goes straight up, might e Leg Break?
Skyfall - on 27 May 2012
In reply to Martin Wing:

Having problems reading the guidebook ? ;)

You traverse right at the peg for a few metres. Then up and right again.

Not sure your variation is a known route (but I could be wrong), but crosses Rattlesnake Finish (E2) by the sounds of it.
Martin Wing - on 27 May 2012
In reply to JonC:
> (In reply to Martin Wing)
>
> Having problems reading the guidebook ? ;)

I think the sun was getting to me!

Olli-C - on 27 May 2012
In reply to Martin Wing: I did exactly the same as you, looked a lot easier than going directly right from where the peg used to be (has it been replaced? I had to get a rubbish cam in) I got gear after a move or two directly up from the peg hole before going right.
Skyfall - on 27 May 2012
In reply to Martin Wing:

Trem must have been absolutely baking this weekend.... !
Martin Wing - on 27 May 2012
In reply to Olli-C: There is a peg there, it didnt look great so i backed it up with a cam underneath it.
Skyfall - on 27 May 2012
In reply to Martin Wing:

Ah but that cam slot is the only decent handhold there, to traverse right from....
Martin Wing - on 27 May 2012
In reply to JonC: That might explain why i didnt even consider going right then!
victim of mathematics - on 27 May 2012
In reply to Martin Wing:

Surely you move up past the peg to some good holds before you start traversing right?
Skyfall - on 27 May 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

nope, the peg is more or less in front of your face and the 'cam slot' (better used as a handhold) is at chest height as you move right. There's a debate as to whether you traverse high or low - but both are still level or below the peg. The current definitive guide says 'trending right past a peg', which is exactly as I recall it. One circa 5a move then onto slightly easier ground. The old (excellent) Steve Ashton guide also says to step right below the peg.
GrahamD - on 28 May 2012
In reply to JonC:

I vaguely remember stepping slightly down and right. Certainly not straight up !
jezb1 - on 28 May 2012
In reply to Martin Wing: When I lead it I went right. I've since followed someone up it who went straight up...

Right feels easier to me but I think you have to leave the hold below the peg free from gear otherwise it's going to be harder.
Paul Merrigan - on 28 May 2012
In reply to Martin Wing: By all accounts the old TV show The Prisoner was filmed around there! Not sure how that snippet of info helped me on that last pitch Martin mate lol. At least we know that it was a variation of Meshach now.
al123 - on 28 May 2012
In reply to Martin Wing: always though this move felt hard for 5a, I've always gone up past the peg to the good hold above then by the sounds of it the same finish as the OP. still was worth 3 stars I think
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Martin Wing - on 28 May 2012
In reply to al123:
> still was worth 3 stars I think
I agree. The climbing was brilliant even it wasn't on route. Will have to try the proper finish next time though.


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