/ Best E1-E2 at Gogarth

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rustaldo - on 31 May 2012
inspired by the "uks best E1" thread

what is the best route at Gogarth in the E1-E2 range?

Emulator? Resolution Direct? Mousetrap? The Strand?
Jon Stewart - on 31 May 2012
In reply to rustaldo:

Gogarth E1s and E2s are brilliant. From my experience so far:

The Strand is a good introduction. Purely to annoy certain people, I'll say again that it's like climbing 2 strenuous HVSs in a one-er. Being single pitch, not 'by the sea', and with abseil decent, it's not really Gogarth.

North West Passage is absolutely superb. The position and climbing on the second pitch is second to none.

Toiler on the Sea is excellent. My first route at Gogarth, and a suitable gripper (especially as my mate decided the best way in would be to ab on the climbing ropes).

Resolution Direct I found a bit disappointing. Run the final pitches together to avoid belaying in the middle of the best climbing.

Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird is probably the best one I've done. Like North West Passage but loads better (unbelievably!).

Worth bearing in mind that pitches at the far end of Main Cliff (e.g. Nightride, which has an excellent pitch) are a whole world of faff. The approach faff is really enjoyable, the exit faff less so. Easter Island Gully (Hombre is very good) is a similar deal. If you like a few pitches of steep grass to top off a good route, head round there.

I can't resist the temptation of saying that if you climb E1/2 then The Moon is the best route available. Sorry about that.

Aardvark is a great test, with superb crimpy slab climbing on the cusp of E3.

I haven't done Flytrap yet but that looks amazing. So do Mousetrap and Red Wall for a bit of classic loose fun (none of the routes above are loose) but they're bird band 'til August.

Jon Stewart - on 31 May 2012
In reply to rustaldo:

I've just seen your profile picture and assume you meant: 'what do you think is the best E1/2 at Gogarth', not 'please recommend me a good E1/2 at Gogarth'.

In which case it's Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird (or The Moon!).
pasbury on 31 May 2012
In reply to rustaldo:

Strand & Aardvark are both great contrasting pitches without the usual Gogarth 'grip factor'.
Gogarth itself I didn't rate that highly - maybe being caught on the crux in a hailstorm didn't help.

For me Moustrap is the best and most gogarthian route at E1/2. Traversing across the crazy corrugations is amazing and the top pitch is a fine sting in the tail.

I wish I'd done Red Wall but never got round to it.
The Ex-Engineer - on 31 May 2012
In reply to rustaldo: I don't know, I've not done them all - when I have I'll let you know ;-)

However, everything I have done there has been extremely good. Out of the 4 you mention (which I have done), IMO, Mousetrap knocks the sock of the other three in terms of the all round experience. It is just completely unique and utterly compelling.
Mark Reeves - on 31 May 2012
In reply to rustaldo: Flytrap, Quartz Icicle, Spider Wall, Mestizo, Heroine, Nightride, Gogarth Emulator, Mousetrap, RH Red Wall, NW Passage, True Moments Free Bird,

All reallty good, and a few sandbags in there.
richardr - on 31 May 2012
In reply to rustaldo: Quartz icicle is the best I've done at those grades. Sustained, good pro and brilliant climbing! One of the best e2s anywhere.
john morrissey - on 31 May 2012
In reply to richardr: Gogarth and The Strand. both brilliant
Ampthill - on 31 May 2012
In reply to john morrissey:

I thought Mouse trap was really to serious for me. But I think when I did I was really only leading about HVS. I think a fall could be really serious

True moments Freebirds was good. Strand too single pitch and sea less.

I enjoyed Hyperdermic

But I think I'd go with the moon, really felt like E2 5b on the day. But brilliant.

Note hardest outdoor route this year HS.....

How do I see some ones profile or log book
pasbury on 31 May 2012
In reply to Ampthill:

Baah Humbug - everybody's downgrading the Moon. One of the few E3s I've done!!
Jon Stewart - on 31 May 2012
In reply to pasbury:

It's like there's some sort of campaign going on, eh?
Ampthill - on 31 May 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I'm sorry. To be fair it is solid E3 on here, with lots of votes. Its probably my sort of route on a day I was climbing well, in the sun, with a very competent partner

I've never found the grading system matches my experience of the difficuilty of routes
Tyler - on 31 May 2012
In reply to rustaldo:

No one mentioned Breaking the Barrier, it gets three starts in the old guide.......
rustaldo - on 31 May 2012
In reply to Tyler: HH mountain isnt really Gogarth though..
highclimber - on 31 May 2012
In reply to Tyler: Branflake is better (though it's E2)
ads.ukclimbing.com
William Robertson - on 01 Jun 2012
In reply to pasbury:

The Moon is no harder than Astral Stroll. E2 for the exposure and E3 if you have a dithering second!

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