/ Lightwave tents cheap on SportsPursuit
I love my lightwave (G2 ultra) - had it 4? years, so far it's been bombproof.
Depends where you go, of course, but my experience is that the key to good tent pitching in the Himalayas is down to pegs and string more than whether the tent is geodesic or tunnel. After all, even geodesic tents need to be attached to the ground to prevent them being blown away :)
A lot of the campsites have compressed soil almost to the state of concrete, or can have very rocky soils. I have seen many supplied tent pegs bend with use, so I pay a bit more and buy really strong pegs that will survive lots of abuse. I really rate Alpkit Spikes or similar. http://www.alpkit.com/shop/cart.php?target=product&product_id=16258&category_id=253 or
If you are having your kit bags carried by ponies, then I would also pack a hammer, and you can save mouney by buying steel pegs like http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/blue-diamond-hard-ground-box-set-of-20-camping-pegs-p121584 or perhaps a bag of 6 inch nails.
Having extra string means you can tie pegging points to big rocks, if you find yourself in an extremely rocky spot. Of course, string has loads of other uses - repairing guy ropes, clothes lines, etc, etc.
I also find a well-deigned and well-made tent is easier to erect, more stable, and more comfortable than a poorly designed and poorly made tent. Regardless of whether tunnel or geodesic.
Being well made and well designed does not always go along with expensive :)
What I look for in a Himalayan tent:
If going to an area that is subject to sand storms (eg Spiti) then it is best to have an inner tent where all the mesh vents can be closed with inner fabric doors.
A tough groundsheet, as many of the ground surfaces of campsites are abrasive. I would also use some form of groundsheet protector as well.
A tent that is easy to erect and strike. This can only be found out by trial and error, so I would either try someone else's tent or at the least put the tent up in the shop. Some pole sleeves are sticky and others are slick, for example, which can make a big difference when you are knackered and your head is mush from the altitude/heat.
A well ventilated tent. If possible, a tent with two doors that can give a through draught. You are likely to find yourself with a few extended periods mooching around the campsite, and during the day you might have strong sun and cool air - a tent with only one opening becomes a baking cave, but a more open tent can act as avery pleasant sun shade with a cooling breeze.
A tent giving a taught pitch. Some tents flap a lot, and other tents don't. This is down to quality of design and construction. Flappy tents are noisy and annoying, but the flapping also puts the fabric under more stress, weakening the tent.
Enough space. You can find yourself spending a lot of time in your tent. I like to have space to comfortably sit up or even kneel up, because this makes getting dressed much easier. But too much space and the tent is cold at night. It is also worth having space inside the tent for rummaging round your kit. There is a big variation in size between one 2 person tent and another two person tent. And the floor plan alone is not enough of a guide - the steepness of tent walls (including at the feet end) has a big effect on the usable room in the tent.
Strong fabrics. If you are out for two weeks or more, your tent is subject to a lot of wear.
Some websites give the tear strength of fabrics, and it is interesting to see how much variation there is in this. As a rule of thumb, silicon coated fly sheets tend to be far stronger than pu coated fly sheets. In general.
I have an old-ish 1 man lightwave. Granted, it was one of their top models at the time with a very slippery, siliconised flysheet and carbon poles(!)-'cylq' I think they called it- but the quality is excellent and every bit the match for my Hilleberg Nallo. So, quality wise, I would recommend them.
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