/ Thefts of gear on A55 Crags

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rockcat - on 01 Jun 2012
There has been a recent spate of thefts of lower-offs from the A55 Crags in North Wales which is ongoing. Below is a comprehensive list of thefts which we are aware of to date. Lets be clear that these people are thieves and whoever is doing it is stealing from those who contributed to the bolt fund and in many cases individuals who have bought the gear themselves. They are stealing from the climbing community and providing needless work to those who look after these crags in replacing the gear. If anyone is seen stealing or interfering with gear then please challenge them in a robust manner and contact me through UKC. Thanks


Penmaen Head
06/08/11. "Tunnel Vision" / "Pier Pressure": Hanger, maillon and ring from the left hand of the two bolts stolen. Replaced. By 26/09/11 both lower-offs and hangers had again been stolen. Replaced with glue-in bolts with integral lower-off rings.

26/09/11. "The Quarrywoman": Maillons and steel carabiners stolen. Replaced and the maillon threads Araldited.
"Steak Slice": Maillons and steel carabiners stolen. Replaced and the maillon threads Araldited.

18/01/12. "Yang": Maillons / rings stolen.

Ty Newydd
"Madasafish": Maillons/ rings stolen. Replaced. Stolen again. Replaced and Maillon threads Araldited
"Chilly T": Maillons / rings stolen. Replaced

Llanddulas Cave
"Tony Stud": Hanger stolen. Replaced

Dyserth Castle Slab
22/05/12. "Tegengle": One of the large lower-off maillons stolen. Yet to be replaced.
Flatus Vetus - on 01 Jun 2012
In reply to rockcat:

Was the stolen gear accessible to non-climbers?
rockcat - on 01 Jun 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus: In a couple of cases possibly but it would have been dangerous.

> (In reply to rockcat)
>
> Was the stolen gear accessible to non-climbers?

maybe_si - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to rockcat:

what a bunch of tossers!

i am loving the A55 at the moment, no idea why someone would do this?!

Someone needs their arse kicking!
rockcat - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to maybe_si: Its very disappointing that fellow climbers should be going to a crag armed with a spanner to do this. They have got to be climbers because most of the lower-offs are only be accessible to climbers and they have to either thread the bolts or abseil off to escape.
kevin stephens - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to rockcat
or cavers.....
rockcat - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to kevin stephens: Cavers who are climbers as well.

> In reply to rockcat
> or cavers.....

caradoc - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to rockcat: I was at Castle Slab last Sunday, but didn't have a problem lowering off Tengengle. The routes on the A55 are generally very well equipped, much better than other Sports venues I have visited in the Peak and elsewhere. It has been a fantastic effort by the team in that area.
thefuturesmiles - on 02 Jun 2012
In reply to caradoc: Better equipped than the Peak? I've been to N Wales for the sport climbing twice. Enjoy the routes but there are some serious run-outs so I don't think it's fair to say that they're better equipped than the Peak.
Furanco C - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to rockcat:

Do you think it is idle theft, or someone making a political statement about bolting?
rockcat - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to Juranco C: My guess is that its theft with a purpose and perhaps the maillons etc are being used elsewhere and not someone making a political statement about bolting. Its not as if the crags affected were previously trad crags.

> (In reply to rockcat)
>
> Do you think it is idle theft, or someone making a political statement about bolting?

caradoc - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to rockcat: My point about the equipping was that the lower-offs have nice shiney Karabiners that might be rather tempting to someone. On the point about run outs, except for one or two bolts that could be a bit higher or lower I think it's pretty fair especially on the low grade ones. Have a look at the stuff on the right hand side of Castle Inn.
In reply to caradoc:
> My point about the equipping was that the lower-offs have nice shiney Karabiners that might be rather tempting to someone.

Does anyone really leave decent krabs on lower-offs?


Chris
Mark Reeves - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: Chris they were equipped with old stainless steel crabs donated to the bolt fund by various outdoor centres. So hardly shiney. usually held in place with a clip that mean you actually have to undo the mallion to free them from the lower off.
Mark Reeves - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to Mark Reeves: sorry chris realise it wasn't you after i posted that.
tom290483 - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to caradoc:
> (In reply to rockcat) My point about the equipping was that the lower-offs have nice shiney Karabiners that might be rather tempting to someone.

Just because their temptig doesnt make it ok.

I'd love to hear these guys or girls justify there actions. Proper f**kwits.

rockcat - on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to Mark Reeves: Mark its true that 2 of the lower-offs stolen from Penmaen Head included old steel crabs but not the others which were shiney, new and stainless steel. Sometimes large maillons were used and sometimes rings.

> (In reply to Chris Craggs) Chris they were equipped with old stainless steel crabs donated to the bolt fund by various outdoor centres. So hardly shiney. usually held in place with a clip that mean you actually have to undo the mallion to free them from the lower off.

doylo - on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to rockcat:

It is baffling. Tony Stud has glue in's apart from one expansion bolt and someone has pinched the hanger! I would love to catch someone doing it....
rockcat - on 04 Jun 2012
In reply to doylo: If enough people stay vigilant then they will be caught in the act and hopefully challenged.

> (In reply to rockcat)
>
> It is baffling. Tony Stud has glue in's apart from one expansion bolt and someone has pinched the hanger! I would love to catch someone doing it....

krikoman - on 05 Jun 2012
In reply to kevin stephens:
> In reply to rockcat
> or cavers.....

Yeah! the low down bastardos
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