/ Moy Crag questions

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verygneiss - on 03 Jun 2012
I'm looking to get into sport climbing - need to get my hands on a 60m rope first and forgiving partner first - at Moy Crag near Dingwall.

What sort of anchors can I expect at the top of the (easier!) routes? Do they have fixed karabiners that you can just abseil off of, or will there be rope-friendly hardwear that you clip into, clean, and then get lowered/abseil off? I've been practicing the latter, but I'm not sure what I'll encounter when I finally get up there.
becauseitsthere - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to verygneiss:
There's a mix of fixings at the tops. Some are just crabs that you clip and others have two rings. You will need to learn to re-thread. It's not difficult and most climbers up there would be happy to show you how it's done. Just ask someone. In addition to your rope and quickdraws you will need a 120cm sling with a screwgate. Fix the sling to your harness using a cowstail.
Andy Nisbet - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to verygneiss:

A 50m rope is fine for all the routes of IV+, 5, 5+ and most others. One 6a and one 6a+ need a 60m.
Ron Walker - on 03 Jun 2012
In reply to verygneiss:
Most of the routes are fine with a 50 metre rope as that's all I have.
An easy short down climb on areas such as Black Streak along with a knot on the belayers end will be OK.
The top anchors do vary quite a bit but as long as you have a cows tail and can thread the rings, or the old glued crabs you'll be fine!

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