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North wales - walking, scrambling and dream at gogarth

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 sweenyt 04 Jun 2012
Hi All,

Planning a short (3-4 day) trip to north wales. I've only got the classic north wales rock book at the moment, so was wondering if anyone could throw a few suggestions at me.

I'd quite like to do a big 2 day walk with a wild camp in the middle, and would like to include some big boot moving together, either on scrambles or easy (up to v diff) routes. Any suggestions as to some good link ups. Currently thinking something on tryfan followed by either great gully or amphitheater buttress at crag y ysfa (sp?) with a bivi down by the ruins at the bottom of GG/AB. But this seems a bit short for 2 days. Any improvements of alternatives?

Thinking about heading over to dream OWH on the third day, and was after a good info source. I've had a look in my guide and there is some info, but I would really like a fool proof definitive guide to the ab and route. If anyone here has some pointers, either to a good guide or from experience I'd be very grateful. I'm not normally so bothered but this route scares the hell out of me and also seeing as its above the sea and all, a quick ab off if I go wrong is a bit out of the question!

Sorry if all this is dumb/seems over the top.

Looking forward to hearing what you have to say!

H
In reply to sweenyt: Hi mate, I live in the area and would be interested in joining you if you wanted? I can show you DOWH if you want as I've done it before and its not as scary as you think it is.
In reply to sweenyt: As far as trips combining good scrambling and backpacking go, I would say that it is a bit of an odd combination, especially for Snowdonia where everything is so accessible.

Much better IMO to just have a big day out doing a link-up of scrambles with a light pack, then return to the valley for an evening meal before doing a 1-2 hour walk-in to a different area of the National Park to camp somewhere leaving at around 8-9pm. On the second day you can have leave the tents early, complete a scramble close to the tents in the morning, then strike camps and head out again via some easier walking terrain or ridges in the afternoon.
OP sweenyt 04 Jun 2012
In reply to higherclimbingwales: That potentially sounds good, I'll let you know when we have finalised dates, and also how many of us are coming up.

thanks,

H
OP sweenyt 04 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Fair point. Have you got any good suggestions for link ups for the different days?
I quite like the idea of leaving the heavy stuff in the car, and also it would give us the ability to go to different areas on the different days.

Thanks,

H

In reply to sweenyt: About the best Glyders day I can think of would be something like:

From Ogwen head into Cwm Idwal, take the Direct Approach to Senior's Ridge (Grade 2) into Cwm Cneifion, head up Cneifion Arete (Grade 3) traverse around Y Gribbin into Cwm Bochlwyd, up The Chasm Face (Grade 3) and over the summit of Glder Fawr and down Bristly Ridge (Grade 2) traverse down and round to heather terrace on the East face of Tryfan to head up South Buttress (Grade 3) to the summit of Tryfan and then descent down the North Ridge (Grade 1).
In reply to sweenyt: A word of caution though - Dream can take the best part of a day if you get stuck behind another (slower) party and there are no passing places and the belays are cramped to say the least!

Keep me posted as I have one last summer before I go back to Uni in Sept for PGCE and i'm always up for an adventure (plus I know the area pretty well!)

All the best. Anthony
 Cake 04 Jun 2012
In reply to higherclimbingwales:
I was a part of a slow party last year and I think it may have taken 5 hours. The approach to the abseil is unpleasant (scary) and you may like to rope up for some of it. I think I backed up the anchor spike with a fist-size friend. A lot of people do not do the first pitch due to tides or convenience.

The climb: The climbing is fine. VS moves and protection in a scary position. Don't ever detach gear from yourself or the rope completely (you won't get it back). Look out for puffins and seals

Enjoy
 Nathan Adam 04 Jun 2012
In reply to sweenyt: Not a huge bucket of knowledge on the Wales aspect at all but the Cneifion Arete looked really top notch (although I chickened out of it) when I was down last weekend. Perhaps link it up with the Idwal Slabs, not sure if this is a huge day out though ? Plenty good terrain for big boot climbing practice and moving together !
 Nathan Adam 04 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer: Whooops, never saw this before. Sounds like a pretty awesome day out to me !

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