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So, after years of hearing nothing but horrors stories of loose rock, outrageously polished holds and questionable protection I finally had a proper day's climbing at Stoney Middleton. I thought it was absolutely brilliant and can't wait to get back for more.
We kept a couple of grades in hand and only climbed up to VS, wanting to get a feel for it before being a bit more adventurous and climbed 3 brilliant routes (Rosehip Wine, Asparagus & Gabriel and the Pearly Gates). I thought the protection was fine in most places (traverse at top of Gabriel the main exception - scary!), the climbing was interesting throughout and it all felt like a bit of an adventure. I certainly can't think of a grit route with the kind of exposure you get on The Pearly Gates at VS? At no point did the polish detract from the routes we did, it was certainly there but didn't seem to hold us back at all.
So I love the place, what does everyone else think? And, those who like the place, which routes would you suggest from HVS - E1 that would suit a Limestone trad newbie?!
Cheers,
Chris
We kept a couple of grades in hand and only climbed up to VS, wanting to get a feel for it before being a bit more adventurous and climbed 3 brilliant routes (Rosehip Wine, Asparagus & Gabriel and the Pearly Gates). I thought the protection was fine in most places (traverse at top of Gabriel the main exception - scary!), the climbing was interesting throughout and it all felt like a bit of an adventure. I certainly can't think of a grit route with the kind of exposure you get on The Pearly Gates at VS? At no point did the polish detract from the routes we did, it was certainly there but didn't seem to hold us back at all.
So I love the place, what does everyone else think? And, those who like the place, which routes would you suggest from HVS - E1 that would suit a Limestone trad newbie?!
Cheers,
Chris
In reply to PebblePusher:
Stoney is great, it is polished in places but so are most limestone crags and you don't notice it for long. It isn't particularly loose in my opinion, except for parts of Garage Buttress and a few other odd routes.
Minus Ten, Fe Fi Fo Fum and Padme are all ok at HVS. The first two are non-typical limestone and involve jamming up cracks to some extent. Padme is a bit more 'normal'. For E1s, I did one called St Peter recently that was quite fun, and another called Om. Both fine for the grade, St Peter harder than Om. Dead Banana Crack is the best I've done at E1 - one 5c move and then the rest is steady if you're ok with cracks and have a little fitness, and really really good. Medusa is really hard for the grade.
Once you get to E2 it gets even better as you have Windy Buttress to play with (and Carl's Wark Crack of course!!)
Stoney is great, it is polished in places but so are most limestone crags and you don't notice it for long. It isn't particularly loose in my opinion, except for parts of Garage Buttress and a few other odd routes.
Minus Ten, Fe Fi Fo Fum and Padme are all ok at HVS. The first two are non-typical limestone and involve jamming up cracks to some extent. Padme is a bit more 'normal'. For E1s, I did one called St Peter recently that was quite fun, and another called Om. Both fine for the grade, St Peter harder than Om. Dead Banana Crack is the best I've done at E1 - one 5c move and then the rest is steady if you're ok with cracks and have a little fitness, and really really good. Medusa is really hard for the grade.
Once you get to E2 it gets even better as you have Windy Buttress to play with (and Carl's Wark Crack of course!!)
In reply to Si dH:
Great stuff, that's plenty to go at for now! I had a look at Padme and Om yesterday and thought they looked good, will aim to get them done next time out I think. Dead Banana Crack looks great as well, although I think I'll need to sort out my fitness a bit before comitting to that one!
Cheers.
Great stuff, that's plenty to go at for now! I had a look at Padme and Om yesterday and thought they looked good, will aim to get them done next time out I think. Dead Banana Crack looks great as well, although I think I'll need to sort out my fitness a bit before comitting to that one!
Cheers.
In reply to PebblePusher:
Its a great spot. The rock is polished but its also naturally smooth in any case - certainly repays clean, squeeky boots
Its a great spot. The rock is polished but its also naturally smooth in any case - certainly repays clean, squeeky boots
In reply to PebblePusher:
It's a great place. Aurora is classic and excellent. Windhover is brilliant, if you can boulder out the 5c start. Protect with small wires and above that it's HVS - the whole route used to be HVS 5b until a block fell off the start. Enjoy.
SteveC
It's a great place. Aurora is classic and excellent. Windhover is brilliant, if you can boulder out the 5c start. Protect with small wires and above that it's HVS - the whole route used to be HVS 5b until a block fell off the start. Enjoy.
SteveC
In reply to SteveC:
Aurora is our plan for the next visit, being the easiest way to go up Windy Buttress.
We went up onto the ledge to look at Windhover and Scoop Wall, both look great but bloody scary! Definitely a plan for the future, possibly this year but will get a bit more mileage in on Limestone before we commit to those.
Nice to know Windhover isn't too hard after the start, although bouldery moves the second you step off the ledge will get my heart going for the easier bit above I'm sure!
Aurora is our plan for the next visit, being the easiest way to go up Windy Buttress.
We went up onto the ledge to look at Windhover and Scoop Wall, both look great but bloody scary! Definitely a plan for the future, possibly this year but will get a bit more mileage in on Limestone before we commit to those.
Nice to know Windhover isn't too hard after the start, although bouldery moves the second you step off the ledge will get my heart going for the easier bit above I'm sure!
In reply to PebblePusher:
Opposite ends of the E2 grade. Windhover is - as already mentioned by others - a boulder problem start with decent protection followed by a nice HVS romp in a great position.
> We went up onto the ledge to look at Windhover and Scoop Wall, both look great but bloody scary!
Opposite ends of the E2 grade. Windhover is - as already mentioned by others - a boulder problem start with decent protection followed by a nice HVS romp in a great position.
In reply to PebblePusher: Stoney's great, particularly as a winter/dodgy weather forecast crag being sunny, south facing, quick drying and sheltered.
Dead Banana Crack is good value at E1,as is Ripmeoff on Garage Buttress. Both have hard but well protected moves.
Mortuary Steps and Little Capucin good HVS's, after the vegetated, lose start.
Padme is great, especially if you keep going right to the top, it really is much better that way than escaping off left at the ledge.
Chee Dale is where its at for summer Limestone trad though, Aplomb, Chee Tor Girdle, Meditation....
Dead Banana Crack is good value at E1,as is Ripmeoff on Garage Buttress. Both have hard but well protected moves.
Mortuary Steps and Little Capucin good HVS's, after the vegetated, lose start.
Padme is great, especially if you keep going right to the top, it really is much better that way than escaping off left at the ledge.
Chee Dale is where its at for summer Limestone trad though, Aplomb, Chee Tor Girdle, Meditation....
In reply to PebblePusher: I found Mani hard going at the top and not a lot of pro, careful on that one.
In reply to PebblePusher: dont be fed up if you fail on the windhover start - its really hard and would get 6a were it higher up. If you do windhover, armageddon is little harder (e1 top wall) and better.
In reply to Brannock:
Have been to Chee Dale a couple of times for sport (nearly had my first 7a there last year, got it on top rope but kept falling on the same bloody move on the lead!) and it's a great area. Bit of a ball ache to get to though and a long walk in. Stoney is so easy and convenient! Really want to do Sir Plumb at some point though, looks great!
> Chee Dale is where its at for summer Limestone trad though, Aplomb, Chee Tor Girdle, Meditation....
Have been to Chee Dale a couple of times for sport (nearly had my first 7a there last year, got it on top rope but kept falling on the same bloody move on the lead!) and it's a great area. Bit of a ball ache to get to though and a long walk in. Stoney is so easy and convenient! Really want to do Sir Plumb at some point though, looks great!
In reply to Brannock:
Are you thinking about the same Little Capuchin I am ? clean start to good gear. Unprotected moves up a steep slab to crappy gear at the foot of long, loose and awkward groove followed by a loose top out ? Not on my list of routes to do again thats for sure.
Are you thinking about the same Little Capuchin I am ? clean start to good gear. Unprotected moves up a steep slab to crappy gear at the foot of long, loose and awkward groove followed by a loose top out ? Not on my list of routes to do again thats for sure.
In reply to PebblePusher:
Are we thinking of the same Cheedale?
> (In reply to Brannock)
>
> [...]
>
> Bit of a ball ache to get to though and a long walk in.
>
> [...]
>
> Bit of a ball ache to get to though and a long walk in.
Are we thinking of the same Cheedale?
In reply to GrahamD:
These are the kind of comments that put me (and many others I'm sure) off the idea of climbing at Stoney and yet I didn't experience anything like it yesterday. Is this because the suspect, unprotectable rock is more prevelant on the higher grades?
Chris
> (In reply to Brannock)
>
> Are you thinking about the same Little Capuchin I am ? clean start to good gear. Unprotected moves up a steep slab to crappy gear at the foot of long, loose and awkward groove followed by a loose top out ? Not on my list of routes to do again thats for sure.
>
> Are you thinking about the same Little Capuchin I am ? clean start to good gear. Unprotected moves up a steep slab to crappy gear at the foot of long, loose and awkward groove followed by a loose top out ? Not on my list of routes to do again thats for sure.
These are the kind of comments that put me (and many others I'm sure) off the idea of climbing at Stoney and yet I didn't experience anything like it yesterday. Is this because the suspect, unprotectable rock is more prevelant on the higher grades?
Chris
In reply to PebblePusher:
Although I can recommend Golden Gate (HVS) at Stoney as well as Froth (VS).
Although I can recommend Golden Gate (HVS) at Stoney as well as Froth (VS).
In reply to Dan Lane:
I think so, only know of one Chee Dale (Max Buttress?). It is a long way away from Sheffield when you don't drive and I think the walk in is nice but it is still a fairly long one compared to Stoney!?
I should say I'm not against a long walk in (I have climbed Botteril's slab on Scafell) but when you don't drive and it looks like you have a short weather window then it's more of a gamble?
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
> [...]
>
> Are we thinking of the same Cheedale?
> [...]
>
> Are we thinking of the same Cheedale?
I think so, only know of one Chee Dale (Max Buttress?). It is a long way away from Sheffield when you don't drive and I think the walk in is nice but it is still a fairly long one compared to Stoney!?
I should say I'm not against a long walk in (I have climbed Botteril's slab on Scafell) but when you don't drive and it looks like you have a short weather window then it's more of a gamble?
In reply to PebblePusher:
I don't drive either...but i guess i'm used to walking for 90 minutes to reach some of the most remote buttresses on kinder/bleaklow fairly regularly so a 10 minute ramble in Cheedale is not much in comparison!
Stoney is good for a quick hit, but most places have a longer walk
I don't drive either...but i guess i'm used to walking for 90 minutes to reach some of the most remote buttresses on kinder/bleaklow fairly regularly so a 10 minute ramble in Cheedale is not much in comparison!
Stoney is good for a quick hit, but most places have a longer walk
In reply to PebblePusher:
Walk in to Cheedale is much faster now the tunnels are open even if you come by bus. Instead of crossing that brick wall and going down the valley path, go up through the trees to the new path and follow in through a couple of tunels and cut back down under the embankment, about 15mins.
At Stoney, I'd recommend Mortuary Steps at HVS, great route with a big feel to it
Walk in to Cheedale is much faster now the tunnels are open even if you come by bus. Instead of crossing that brick wall and going down the valley path, go up through the trees to the new path and follow in through a couple of tunels and cut back down under the embankment, about 15mins.
At Stoney, I'd recommend Mortuary Steps at HVS, great route with a big feel to it
In reply to GrahamD: Hmmm ok may have temporarily wiped the memories of the lose wall/slab from my memory, still I thought the grove at the top was good, Mortuary Steps may be less lose in the grove.
This Chee Dale.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10866
This Chee Dale.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10866
In reply to Dan Lane:
Yep, both of them are good. Frisco Bay is alright at VS too tho it looked pretty vegetated at the moment when I saw it the other day.
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
>
> Although I can recommend Golden Gate (HVS) at Stoney as well as Froth (VS).
>
> Although I can recommend Golden Gate (HVS) at Stoney as well as Froth (VS).
Yep, both of them are good. Frisco Bay is alright at VS too tho it looked pretty vegetated at the moment when I saw it the other day.
In reply to mark20:
Good to know, I'll have to get out there and check it out. I love the area because I grew up just around the corner in Tideswell!
> Walk in to Cheedale is much faster now the tunnels are open even if you come by bus. Instead of crossing that brick wall and going down the valley path, go up through the trees to the new path and follow in through a couple of tunels and cut back down under the embankment, about 15mins.
Good to know, I'll have to get out there and check it out. I love the area because I grew up just around the corner in Tideswell!
In reply to PebblePusher:
Well Stoney is good and a lot better than its reputation but there are a few slightly dubious bits (bit like any other inland limestone in the UK I guess)
Well Stoney is good and a lot better than its reputation but there are a few slightly dubious bits (bit like any other inland limestone in the UK I guess)
In reply to PebblePusher:
On the contrary I think it tends to get better at higher grades, as is often the case on peak lime.
> (In reply to GrahamD)
> [...]
>
> These are the kind of comments that put me (and many others I'm sure) off the idea of climbing at Stoney and yet I didn't experience anything like it yesterday. Is this because the suspect, unprotectable rock is more prevelant on the higher grades?
> [...]
>
> These are the kind of comments that put me (and many others I'm sure) off the idea of climbing at Stoney and yet I didn't experience anything like it yesterday. Is this because the suspect, unprotectable rock is more prevelant on the higher grades?
On the contrary I think it tends to get better at higher grades, as is often the case on peak lime.
In reply to Si dH:
Good news, I was hoping that was the case but when we did a collection of the easier routes and didn't find anything particularly loose or suspect I began to wonder?!
Thanks
> On the contrary I think it tends to get better at higher grades, as is often the case on peak lime.
Good news, I was hoping that was the case but when we did a collection of the easier routes and didn't find anything particularly loose or suspect I began to wonder?!
Thanks
In reply to PebblePusher: Can people please stop publicising how good Stoney is. At the moment you can sit at home, pick a route and nip out there get on it. If everyone knows it's good, they will all go there, then we will be back to the late 70's queues for a route.
I has been getting so little traffic that some of the routes have actually lost their best polish. I am going out there on Friday with my pledge and duster to restore history!
I has been getting so little traffic that some of the routes have actually lost their best polish. I am going out there on Friday with my pledge and duster to restore history!
In reply to johncook:
A fair point! I just thought it was great and wanted some suggestions from those who haven't been as cowardly as me and avoided it for years!! All I was thinking all day yesterday was why the hell did it take me so long to get there!
It was dead for the record, saw 2 other groups and a few bouldering but that was it. Numbers will need to grow exponentialy before queue's will be a problem!
Chris
> (In reply to PebblePusher) Can people please stop publicising how good Stoney is. At the moment you can sit at home, pick a route and nip out there get on it. If everyone knows it's good, they will all go there, then we will be back to the late 70's queues for a route.
A fair point! I just thought it was great and wanted some suggestions from those who haven't been as cowardly as me and avoided it for years!! All I was thinking all day yesterday was why the hell did it take me so long to get there!
It was dead for the record, saw 2 other groups and a few bouldering but that was it. Numbers will need to grow exponentialy before queue's will be a problem!
Chris
In reply to johncook:
It's ok, he's not fooling anyone. This is all a ploy to make the grit edges a bit quieter.
> Can people please stop publicising how good Stoney is.
It's ok, he's not fooling anyone. This is all a ploy to make the grit edges a bit quieter.
In reply to Coel Hellier: In that case he could have suggested Intake (oops) or Masson Lees etc and save the real climbing for climbers! (I am a very old trad climber who has an addiction to winding up sport climbers)
In reply to Coel Hellier:
Why do you say that? I don't think Stoney will replace Stanage any time soon, think it would need much more hype than an average local saying he had a good afternoon there!!!
> (In reply to johncook)
>
> [...]
>
> It's ok, he's not fooling anyone. This is all a ploy to make the grit edges a bit quieter.
>
> [...]
>
> It's ok, he's not fooling anyone. This is all a ploy to make the grit edges a bit quieter.
Why do you say that? I don't think Stoney will replace Stanage any time soon, think it would need much more hype than an average local saying he had a good afternoon there!!!
In reply to Dan Lane:
It is also good for a leisurely day, and repeat visits.
It is no secret that back-in-the-day our top climbers climbed there because of the quality climbing, as well as the short approach.
Mick
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
>
>
> Stoney is good for a quick hit....
It is also good for a leisurely day, and repeat visits.
It is no secret that back-in-the-day our top climbers climbed there because of the quality climbing, as well as the short approach.
Mick
In reply to PebblePusher: Considering quite a few peak Limestone trad crags are disappearing under vegetation (Stoney West?, Ravensdale?, bits of Dovedale spring to mind), I don't think there's much risk of Stoney supplanting Stanage or even Horseshoe in terms of popularity.
In reply to PebblePusher:
I have done most of the routes there up to E4 and I can't recall any of the routes being especially poorly protected. You will meet loose rock, but usually the gear is good!
Chris
> Is this because the suspect, unprotectable rock is more prevelant on the higher grades?
>
> Chris
>
> Chris
I have done most of the routes there up to E4 and I can't recall any of the routes being especially poorly protected. You will meet loose rock, but usually the gear is good!
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Mani is one I backed off from half-way up, since none of the gear convinced me. On then seconding it the gear still didn't convince, and the upper regions are reasonably pushy for the grade.
> I can't recall any of the routes being especially poorly protected.
Mani is one I backed off from half-way up, since none of the gear convinced me. On then seconding it the gear still didn't convince, and the upper regions are reasonably pushy for the grade.
In reply to Coel Hellier:
There is decent gear on Mani, it just takes a bit of seeking out, cams and opposition wires early on, the small wires higher up.
Chris
There is decent gear on Mani, it just takes a bit of seeking out, cams and opposition wires early on, the small wires higher up.
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
That all have a habit of ripping out. It's a funny one is Mani! Climber beware, especially if E1 is your limit.
> (In reply to Coel Hellier)
>
> There is decent gear on Mani, it just takes a bit of seeking out, cams and opposition wires early on, the small wires higher up.
>
> There is decent gear on Mani, it just takes a bit of seeking out, cams and opposition wires early on, the small wires higher up.
That all have a habit of ripping out. It's a funny one is Mani! Climber beware, especially if E1 is your limit.
In reply to PebblePusher:
Dont let the secret out! Its always quiet at Stoney!
You want to go for:
a) Evasor - best VS on Peak Limestone, well I am biased! Got to be steady on first pitch - not much gear - but top pitch is mega!
b) Aurora Arete - excellent climbing on pitch two in a great position
c) Compo Groove - excellent groove climbing and a good intro to verical grass climbing on the approach
d) Rippemoff - hugely underated imho - still only one star in new guide. Pitch one has a steep pull through roof next to peg on good finger jugs - this leads to a stance on the edge of time. Pitch two then blasts over a mini roof and up a crack in aa mega positon. Great route.
Ten youre into the ETwos and theres millions.
Dont let the secret out! Its always quiet at Stoney!
You want to go for:
a) Evasor - best VS on Peak Limestone, well I am biased! Got to be steady on first pitch - not much gear - but top pitch is mega!
b) Aurora Arete - excellent climbing on pitch two in a great position
c) Compo Groove - excellent groove climbing and a good intro to verical grass climbing on the approach
d) Rippemoff - hugely underated imho - still only one star in new guide. Pitch one has a steep pull through roof next to peg on good finger jugs - this leads to a stance on the edge of time. Pitch two then blasts over a mini roof and up a crack in aa mega positon. Great route.
Ten youre into the ETwos and theres millions.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:
Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for in terms of pacements on Limestone that might rip out?! I felt like all of my placements yesterday (apart from the two rp's on the traverse bit of Gabriel!) were solid. Although none of them were tested as I was climbing well within my limit and didn't fall at any point, I did trust them.
Chris
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> [...]
>
> That all have a habit of ripping out. It's a funny one is Mani! Climber beware, especially if E1 is your limit.
> [...]
>
> That all have a habit of ripping out. It's a funny one is Mani! Climber beware, especially if E1 is your limit.
Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for in terms of pacements on Limestone that might rip out?! I felt like all of my placements yesterday (apart from the two rp's on the traverse bit of Gabriel!) were solid. Although none of them were tested as I was climbing well within my limit and didn't fall at any point, I did trust them.
Chris
In reply to PebblePusher: I soloed Om back in late 70's after 5 pints down at The Moon pub. When I went back the week after to climb it with all the gear I couldn't get near it.
Al
Al
In reply to PebblePusher:
Cams have an occasional habit of skidding in smooth limestone cracks when you lob on them. I always try to get them to sit behind a narrowing in the crack to reduce this possibility.
Wires - same an on any rock, if it looks good it probably is. Just watch out for knackered blown-out placements on popular routes.
Chris
Cams have an occasional habit of skidding in smooth limestone cracks when you lob on them. I always try to get them to sit behind a narrowing in the crack to reduce this possibility.
Wires - same an on any rock, if it looks good it probably is. Just watch out for knackered blown-out placements on popular routes.
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Cheers I'll keep an eye out. I tried not to place cam's if possible because I have heard that they are less reliable on smooth rock (understandable). The routes I climbed were all easily protected with nuts, think I only placed 1 cam and that was because I was being lazy and was a bit pumped so thought moving on was better than fiddling around to get a nut in. That seemed solid enough though and didn't move at all when tugged on.
Cheers I'll keep an eye out. I tried not to place cam's if possible because I have heard that they are less reliable on smooth rock (understandable). The routes I climbed were all easily protected with nuts, think I only placed 1 cam and that was because I was being lazy and was a bit pumped so thought moving on was better than fiddling around to get a nut in. That seemed solid enough though and didn't move at all when tugged on.
In reply to PebblePusher:
Use hexes in preference to cams on limestone, especially in limestone cracks.
One method is to quickly place a cam, then place a bomber hex.
It is smaller nuts that have a habit of ripping on limestone in my experience. It does of course depend on the placement, some are bomber.
Use hexes in preference to cams on limestone, especially in limestone cracks.
One method is to quickly place a cam, then place a bomber hex.
It is smaller nuts that have a habit of ripping on limestone in my experience. It does of course depend on the placement, some are bomber.
In reply to PebblePusher:
Note the routes I have suggested are all on Windy/Garage Buttresses - dont climb too much in the bays as its abit more polished in there.
Mani is one in question - Rippemoff - ten times better.
Note the routes I have suggested are all on Windy/Garage Buttresses - dont climb too much in the bays as its abit more polished in there.
Mani is one in question - Rippemoff - ten times better.
In reply to Bulls Crack:
Not done Mortuary Steps but yep - Compo Groove and Aurora Arete both HVS 5a.
Not done Mortuary Steps but yep - Compo Groove and Aurora Arete both HVS 5a.
In reply to PebblePusher:
Avoid Aurora first pitch ( nowhere near VS)...I did it a couple of years ago and thought I was going to die. The top pitch is beautiful though.
VS my ass.
Just look at the comments: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11501
Avoid Aurora first pitch ( nowhere near VS)...I did it a couple of years ago and thought I was going to die. The top pitch is beautiful though.
VS my ass.
Just look at the comments: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11501
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:
Yep - agree Aurora P1 is sporting for VS - done in one long pitch HVS is pretty fair.
Yep - agree Aurora P1 is sporting for VS - done in one long pitch HVS is pretty fair.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:
How is it best to get to the second pitch without climbing the first? Is it the VDiff traverse from Windy ledge or is there a way of scrambling up there?
Cheers for the advice, we would have just lunged straight into P1 without really thinking about it!!
Chris
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
>
> Avoid Aurora first pitch ( nowhere near VS)...I did it a couple of years ago and thought I was going to die. The top pitch is beautiful though.
>
>
> Avoid Aurora first pitch ( nowhere near VS)...I did it a couple of years ago and thought I was going to die. The top pitch is beautiful though.
>
How is it best to get to the second pitch without climbing the first? Is it the VDiff traverse from Windy ledge or is there a way of scrambling up there?
Cheers for the advice, we would have just lunged straight into P1 without really thinking about it!!
Chris
In reply to PebblePusher: You can walk up and come in from the RHS. Personally I found the 1st pitch easier than the polished horror show of P2...
In reply to Removed User:
Well between you this route has really been sold on me! Have you done Gabriel and the Pearly Gates? Was it more polished than that are similar? We found it OK, a couple of move I tended to overgrip a bit due to not trusting my feet but neither of us had a foot slip once!?
Cheers
> (In reply to PebblePusher) You can walk up and come in from the RHS. Personally I found the 1st pitch easier than the polished horror show of P2...
Well between you this route has really been sold on me! Have you done Gabriel and the Pearly Gates? Was it more polished than that are similar? We found it OK, a couple of move I tended to overgrip a bit due to not trusting my feet but neither of us had a foot slip once!?
Cheers
In reply to PebblePusher:
Aurora is by far the most polished VS I've done at Stoney, good though. Have a go at Sin first to warm up...
Aurora is by far the most polished VS I've done at Stoney, good though. Have a go at Sin first to warm up...
In reply to PebblePusher: I'll just put in a shout for Evasor, which I think is the most entertaining VS at Stoney and not polished. P1 is 'interesting' though.
In reply to PebblePusher:
Folks - thats why i am suggesting Aurora Arete as possibly a better alternative to the groove pitch of Aurora.
You step around left in an excellent position and go up into a black groove - pegs and wires to protect. Steep pull through a buldge on good holds - then its onto the arete in a fine position. Easyish climbing to the top - obviously performing the Stoney commonsense check on all chalked holds!
Much better and only a bit harder imho.
Folks - thats why i am suggesting Aurora Arete as possibly a better alternative to the groove pitch of Aurora.
You step around left in an excellent position and go up into a black groove - pegs and wires to protect. Steep pull through a buldge on good holds - then its onto the arete in a fine position. Easyish climbing to the top - obviously performing the Stoney commonsense check on all chalked holds!
Much better and only a bit harder imho.
In reply to Removed User:
By 'interesting' do you mean that it's pulling on grass and shrubbery with little in the way of protection?!
By 'interesting' do you mean that it's pulling on grass and shrubbery with little in the way of protection?!
In reply to PebblePusher: aka 'Peak Limestone'
In reply to robw007:
Sounds like a good alternative, would probably want to sample a Limestone HVS elsewhere first before I tackle one with that level of exposure though! That's why the VS was an attractive proposition as it's well within my grade. HVS is my top end really (only done 1 E1), although I should be climbing higher grades I just don't get out enough to progress at any real rate!
Sounds like a good alternative, would probably want to sample a Limestone HVS elsewhere first before I tackle one with that level of exposure though! That's why the VS was an attractive proposition as it's well within my grade. HVS is my top end really (only done 1 E1), although I should be climbing higher grades I just don't get out enough to progress at any real rate!
In reply to PebblePusher:
Hmm - not sure where youre going to get an HVS which isnt vertical and therefore exposed on limestone - just by the nature of the rock.
Ravensdale is good for working up through the VSs and HVSs - although once again theres a bit of polish about and I seem to remember a couple of the HVSs being quite tough.
Dont go for Original Route or Highlight on High Tor if you dont want exposure!
Hmm - not sure where youre going to get an HVS which isnt vertical and therefore exposed on limestone - just by the nature of the rock.
Ravensdale is good for working up through the VSs and HVSs - although once again theres a bit of polish about and I seem to remember a couple of the HVSs being quite tough.
Dont go for Original Route or Highlight on High Tor if you dont want exposure!
In reply to robw007:
True, I have my eye on a couple of the HVS's in the bay's round the corner from Windy Ledge. Padme being the one that has caught my eye when at the crag. No problem with the vertical nature of it, but it's much less exposed than Windy Ledge
Can't wait to get out there, looks great in the book. Have also had a look at Wildcat which seems to have plenty to go at in the VS-HVS range.
That is what we're building up to, I have 2 targets for the year. Get my first 7a sport route clean (nearly got one on Max Buttress in Chee Dale last summer) and do Original Route on High Tor. Need a bit more mileage before the latter!
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
>
> Hmm - not sure where youre going to get an HVS which isnt vertical and therefore exposed on limestone - just by the nature of the rock.
>
> Hmm - not sure where youre going to get an HVS which isnt vertical and therefore exposed on limestone - just by the nature of the rock.
True, I have my eye on a couple of the HVS's in the bay's round the corner from Windy Ledge. Padme being the one that has caught my eye when at the crag. No problem with the vertical nature of it, but it's much less exposed than Windy Ledge
> Ravensdale is good for working up through the VSs and HVSs - although once again theres a bit of polish about and I seem to remember a couple of the HVSs being quite tough.
Can't wait to get out there, looks great in the book. Have also had a look at Wildcat which seems to have plenty to go at in the VS-HVS range.
> Dont go for Original Route or Highlight on High Tor if you dont want exposure!
That is what we're building up to, I have 2 targets for the year. Get my first 7a sport route clean (nearly got one on Max Buttress in Chee Dale last summer) and do Original Route on High Tor. Need a bit more mileage before the latter!
In reply to PebblePusher: HVS 5a is a bit easier than 7a sport once you're happy with climbing trad
In reply to Michael Hood:
I love climbing trad, do it a lot more than sport really. I just haven't been able to get out enough to solidify at the HVS grade to be confident with it on Limestone. Have tried to treat Limestone trad as a whole different beast and work up the grades a bit again. Have just been put off the elusive E grades because of the inconsistancy of my fitness and ability to get out and practice.
I like pushing the grades in sport because of the (relative) safety of it. I actually think I'm more likely to push through the trad grades on the Limestone than the Grit because of the nature of the climbing.
I love climbing trad, do it a lot more than sport really. I just haven't been able to get out enough to solidify at the HVS grade to be confident with it on Limestone. Have tried to treat Limestone trad as a whole different beast and work up the grades a bit again. Have just been put off the elusive E grades because of the inconsistancy of my fitness and ability to get out and practice.
I like pushing the grades in sport because of the (relative) safety of it. I actually think I'm more likely to push through the trad grades on the Limestone than the Grit because of the nature of the climbing.
In reply to PebblePusher:
Glad to read that you enjoyed Stoney. Very exciting place on first aquaintance with lots to go at. Dead Banana is hard to onsight; definitely 5c and fingery. Rippemoff is quite good but steep. Brown Corner feels like a bit of an expedition. Tough grades there though.
Will
Glad to read that you enjoyed Stoney. Very exciting place on first aquaintance with lots to go at. Dead Banana is hard to onsight; definitely 5c and fingery. Rippemoff is quite good but steep. Brown Corner feels like a bit of an expedition. Tough grades there though.
Will
In reply to William Robertson:
I noticed that! I suppose it probably felt stiffer than it would for most with it being the first trad I've done on limestone. The runouts are the main difference for me. Any grit route I've done up to HS you can pretty much lace with gear and very rarely have to make moves above gear if you don't want to.
The first route I did at Stoney was a severe and had a couple of big(ish) runouts that made it feel pretty serious by comparison. That is partly why I enjoyed it so much, the adrenaline you get is much higher and it all feels a bit more adventurous because of it!
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
>
> Tough grades there though.
>
> Tough grades there though.
I noticed that! I suppose it probably felt stiffer than it would for most with it being the first trad I've done on limestone. The runouts are the main difference for me. Any grit route I've done up to HS you can pretty much lace with gear and very rarely have to make moves above gear if you don't want to.
The first route I did at Stoney was a severe and had a couple of big(ish) runouts that made it feel pretty serious by comparison. That is partly why I enjoyed it so much, the adrenaline you get is much higher and it all feels a bit more adventurous because of it!
In reply to PebblePusher:
I had pretty much the exact same experience as you when I climbed at Stoney last year. I think it's a great place and will no doubt make a visit when the midges on the grit become too much to bear.
One pointer tho, don't trust cams too much. As a test I placed a cam in a polished but good looking placement at ground level and could pull it out with a good heave.
I had pretty much the exact same experience as you when I climbed at Stoney last year. I think it's a great place and will no doubt make a visit when the midges on the grit become too much to bear.
One pointer tho, don't trust cams too much. As a test I placed a cam in a polished but good looking placement at ground level and could pull it out with a good heave.
In reply to Jimbo C:
Yeah that was my main worry with the place (that and the infamous polish) but I have only placed 2 cams (i think) so far. It lends itself to good nut placements all the way really so I just focus on good nuts.
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
> One pointer tho, don't trust cams too much. As a test I placed a cam in a polished but good looking placement at ground level and could pull it out with a good heave.
Yeah that was my main worry with the place (that and the infamous polish) but I have only placed 2 cams (i think) so far. It lends itself to good nut placements all the way really so I just focus on good nuts.
In reply to Jimbo C:
Oh and I'm tempted to pick up a couple more Tricams, I have the pink one and that went in a treat the other day.
Oh and I'm tempted to pick up a couple more Tricams, I have the pink one and that went in a treat the other day.
In reply to PebblePusher: Original Route on High Tor is one of the best HVS anywhere, amazing climbing for it's grade.
In reply to caradoc:
Yeah looks amazing, I've been drooling over that page of the new guide from the day I got it! I went to the top the 'civilian' way with a mate the other day and it's bloody huge, must feel wild to be on that face!?
> (In reply to PebblePusher) Original Route on High Tor is one of the best HVS anywhere, amazing climbing for it's grade.
Yeah looks amazing, I've been drooling over that page of the new guide from the day I got it! I went to the top the 'civilian' way with a mate the other day and it's bloody huge, must feel wild to be on that face!?
In reply to PebblePusher:
Good point, I'd never thought about tricams - A mate is going to get some I think so I might have to test them out. Having said that, you're right about there being plenty of nut placements.
Good point, I'd never thought about tricams - A mate is going to get some I think so I might have to test them out. Having said that, you're right about there being plenty of nut placements.
In reply to PebblePusher: The last time I was at Stoney (admittedly more than 25 years ago) Windhover was a pleasant VS. Allowing for the loss of the start block, what happened to the rest of the route?
In reply to caradoc:
Hmmm, I can think of better HVS on peak lime, in no particular order.
John Peel at Dovedale, one of the best HVS ive ever done, that traverse goes on forever.
The Thorn, Beeston Tor, admittedly a bit of one move wonder but its a very good move and a great position.
Pdame at Stoney.
> (In reply to PebblePusher) Original Route on High Tor is one of the best HVS anywhere, amazing climbing for it's grade.
Hmmm, I can think of better HVS on peak lime, in no particular order.
John Peel at Dovedale, one of the best HVS ive ever done, that traverse goes on forever.
The Thorn, Beeston Tor, admittedly a bit of one move wonder but its a very good move and a great position.
Pdame at Stoney.
In reply to Brannock:
Will have to check that one out, not one i've noticed when flicking through the book
That is another that really does appeal, looks like it takes in some great positions and exposure!
This is likely to be the first HVS on limestone I have a go at, looked at it from below on Tuesday and it looks great. Pretty sustained i'm guessing from the look of it?
> (In reply to caradoc)
> John Peel at Dovedale, one of the best HVS ive ever done, that traverse goes on forever.
Will have to check that one out, not one i've noticed when flicking through the book
> The Thorn, Beeston Tor, admittedly a bit of one move wonder but its a very good move and a great position.
That is another that really does appeal, looks like it takes in some great positions and exposure!
> Pdame at Stoney.
This is likely to be the first HVS on limestone I have a go at, looked at it from below on Tuesday and it looks great. Pretty sustained i'm guessing from the look of it?
In reply to PebblePusher:
John Peel is simply stunning, but i don't think i'd do it too soon, I found it really hard, but then again, my belayer said i missed all the foot holds! Also, getting down involves abseiling off a tree that has been dead for over 20 years...some of the tat around it is horrific. I'm planning to replace the abseil point over summer at some point so like i say, i'd leave that one for a little while.
The thorn is great though! It is just a couple of moves but pretty exposed - looking down between your legs to see the river nearly 100m below as you pull over an overhang is exciting if you're not used to it!
That's one thing worth noting about Peak Limestone though...A lot of it requires abseiling off (Sorry if you are already perfectly happy abseiling, better safe than sorry!)
John Peel is simply stunning, but i don't think i'd do it too soon, I found it really hard, but then again, my belayer said i missed all the foot holds! Also, getting down involves abseiling off a tree that has been dead for over 20 years...some of the tat around it is horrific. I'm planning to replace the abseil point over summer at some point so like i say, i'd leave that one for a little while.
The thorn is great though! It is just a couple of moves but pretty exposed - looking down between your legs to see the river nearly 100m below as you pull over an overhang is exciting if you're not used to it!
That's one thing worth noting about Peak Limestone though...A lot of it requires abseiling off (Sorry if you are already perfectly happy abseiling, better safe than sorry!)
In reply to Dan Lane:
Good call I'll leave that until there is a safe descent sorted then, could you let us know when you've had chance to do that?
If you ever need someone to come along and help with things like this I would be a happy helper and content to second anything really. I know the guide says the pegs on top of one of the Tissington (spelling?) spires need replacing and there must be plenty more. Feel free to send me a mail, I'd happily do my bit!
That's another one of the notable differences between Grit and Limestone in the Peak, at first I found it a little intimidating but I have a shunt so now that I'm familiar with the setup I quite enjoy it! Although I do faff around a lot double, triple checking everything before I set off!
Chris
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
>
> I'm planning to replace the abseil point over summer at some point so like i say, i'd leave that one for a little while.
>
> I'm planning to replace the abseil point over summer at some point so like i say, i'd leave that one for a little while.
Good call I'll leave that until there is a safe descent sorted then, could you let us know when you've had chance to do that?
If you ever need someone to come along and help with things like this I would be a happy helper and content to second anything really. I know the guide says the pegs on top of one of the Tissington (spelling?) spires need replacing and there must be plenty more. Feel free to send me a mail, I'd happily do my bit!
> That's one thing worth noting about Peak Limestone though...A lot of it requires abseiling off (Sorry if you are already perfectly happy abseiling, better safe than sorry!)
That's another one of the notable differences between Grit and Limestone in the Peak, at first I found it a little intimidating but I have a shunt so now that I'm familiar with the setup I quite enjoy it! Although I do faff around a lot double, triple checking everything before I set off!
Chris
In reply to PebblePusher: Stony was at its hey day in the late 60s early 70s when most of the old routes were put up by street an co two very good travers are the pedulem and alkazan I did the second acent of alkazan from a verbal discription from chris jackson a very good route. may be the polish is caused by this powder that is used nowdays. should be outlawed
In reply to PebblePusher:
Hi, and thanks for your offer of help with replacing Peak Limestone belays. Unfortunately it's the sort of job that only really requires one person so there's not a lot you can do.
However, In replacing abseil stations I use my own pieces of static rope and screwgate carabiners and as you can imagine, i don't have an endless supply!
If you, or anybody else would like to donate either some rope (10mm and above preferably) or screwgates/mallions to be used for this purpose please drop me an email and we can discuss in greater detail.
Thanks
Dan
Hi, and thanks for your offer of help with replacing Peak Limestone belays. Unfortunately it's the sort of job that only really requires one person so there's not a lot you can do.
However, In replacing abseil stations I use my own pieces of static rope and screwgate carabiners and as you can imagine, i don't have an endless supply!
If you, or anybody else would like to donate either some rope (10mm and above preferably) or screwgates/mallions to be used for this purpose please drop me an email and we can discuss in greater detail.
Thanks
Dan
In reply to PebblePusher:
Have to agree with above - the Thorn at Beeston is mega!
Not done John Peel so cant comment.
What about Joint Effort at Staden (not sure of access at the moment) - tricky starting moves then a VS romp up a superb off vertical crack - excellent!
Would stay away from Padme - just too polished imho.
Have to agree with above - the Thorn at Beeston is mega!
Not done John Peel so cant comment.
What about Joint Effort at Staden (not sure of access at the moment) - tricky starting moves then a VS romp up a superb off vertical crack - excellent!
Would stay away from Padme - just too polished imho.
In reply to Dan Lane: John Peel definitely no push over, but none of the moves are to desperate, there's good gear all the way (watch the rope work or some of it will fall out) along with some nice rests. The tree absail isnt great, I hadn't realised how long gone the tree is, if you could replace it with something else that would be great.
Brannock
Brannock
In reply to Dan Lane:
I have a lot of old(ish) rope I am happy to donate, and probably some ironware too in the depths of the garage. I'll sort it out next time we are in the UK.
Good effort,
Chris
I have a lot of old(ish) rope I am happy to donate, and probably some ironware too in the depths of the garage. I'll sort it out next time we are in the UK.
Good effort,
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
That'd be great Chris! Roughly when will you next be over here? I'll drop you a reminder email because if you're anything like me you'll forget!
That'd be great Chris! Roughly when will you next be over here? I'll drop you a reminder email because if you're anything like me you'll forget!
In reply to Dan Lane:
Hey Dan, I'll drop you a mail towards the end of the month when I'm paid. Would happily pick up a few of Mallions to donate to the cause, will arrange to meet out at the crag or something?
Cheers
Hey Dan, I'll drop you a mail towards the end of the month when I'm paid. Would happily pick up a few of Mallions to donate to the cause, will arrange to meet out at the crag or something?
Cheers
In reply to robw007:
The polished rock on Padme does not make a jot of difference to the grade or the quality as the holds are all positive.
The polished rock on Padme does not make a jot of difference to the grade or the quality as the holds are all positive.
In reply to Dan Lane:
Back home in about 4 weeks, - thanks for the offer of the e-mail - good idea, you must know me better than I thought!
)
Referring back to the N Wales thread, I think welded rings might be a better idea rather than old krabs and maillons to stop them being knicked (like the one above Cock-a-Leekie - I might see what I can source when I get home.
Good effort!
Chris
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> That'd be great Chris! Roughly when will you next be over here? I'll drop you a reminder email because if you're anything like me you'll forget!
>
> That'd be great Chris! Roughly when will you next be over here? I'll drop you a reminder email because if you're anything like me you'll forget!
Back home in about 4 weeks, - thanks for the offer of the e-mail - good idea, you must know me better than I thought!
)
Referring back to the N Wales thread, I think welded rings might be a better idea rather than old krabs and maillons to stop them being knicked (like the one above Cock-a-Leekie - I might see what I can source when I get home.
Good effort!
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I've started aralditing the gates of carabiners/mallions shut so they cannont be nicked so anything will do really!
I've started aralditing the gates of carabiners/mallions shut so they cannont be nicked so anything will do really!
In reply to PebblePusher: not read the whole thread so apologies of I repeat others comments.
Hexs very good, the breaks are often hard to protect and pumpy so not salvations they tend to be on grit. take lots of draws and get ALL the gear in. People do get hurt and often good people.
Walk along the bottom and do the HVS corner in the electric quarry. A joe brown classic. All the obvious VS's are great, froth is tremendous. dead bannana v hard until u know where the hold is.
TAke care there's no rush!
al
Hexs very good, the breaks are often hard to protect and pumpy so not salvations they tend to be on grit. take lots of draws and get ALL the gear in. People do get hurt and often good people.
Walk along the bottom and do the HVS corner in the electric quarry. A joe brown classic. All the obvious VS's are great, froth is tremendous. dead bannana v hard until u know where the hold is.
TAke care there's no rush!
al
In reply to alasdair19:
Definately not a Joe Brown route, but good fun all the same. Dirty, steep, pumpy and a bit loose, a proper sea cliff experience! Will be in prime condition this weekend...
Definately not a Joe Brown route, but good fun all the same. Dirty, steep, pumpy and a bit loose, a proper sea cliff experience! Will be in prime condition this weekend...
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:
I agree. Mani is one of those to be careful on - OK if you are going well at the grade but if pushing it....be careful
Padme?...go for it!
Froth is a great VS too. Fe Fi Fo Fum really strenuous at the grade.
I thought Pendulum was death on a stick. Depends how you are going I suppose.
It's funny how Peak Limestone has fallen out of favour. Too adventurous for people coming to trad from walls I guess. Time was you just got on with it. I find modern footwear copes with polish better anyway
I agree. Mani is one of those to be careful on - OK if you are going well at the grade but if pushing it....be careful
Padme?...go for it!
Froth is a great VS too. Fe Fi Fo Fum really strenuous at the grade.
I thought Pendulum was death on a stick. Depends how you are going I suppose.
It's funny how Peak Limestone has fallen out of favour. Too adventurous for people coming to trad from walls I guess. Time was you just got on with it. I find modern footwear copes with polish better anyway
In reply to PebblePusher:
Did Double Scotch today, massively underrated route. Pretty sustained throughout!
Did Double Scotch today, massively underrated route. Pretty sustained throughout!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:
It IS VS. the moves aren't hard and there's good gear (including a peg off to the right), but it is a godawful pitch. The top pitch is great though, and much less polished than, say, Gabriel And The Pearly Gates. Evasor is another one with a shite first pitch and a stunning top pitch. I'd recommend abbing in, or traverse in from the right.
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
>
> Avoid Aurora first pitch ( nowhere near VS)...I did it a couple of years ago and thought I was going to die. The top pitch is beautiful though.
>
> VS my ass.
>
> Just look at the comments: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11501
>
> Avoid Aurora first pitch ( nowhere near VS)...I did it a couple of years ago and thought I was going to die. The top pitch is beautiful though.
>
> VS my ass.
>
> Just look at the comments: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11501
It IS VS. the moves aren't hard and there's good gear (including a peg off to the right), but it is a godawful pitch. The top pitch is great though, and much less polished than, say, Gabriel And The Pearly Gates. Evasor is another one with a shite first pitch and a stunning top pitch. I'd recommend abbing in, or traverse in from the right.
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