/ Alex Honnold - unbelievable!
Wow! Just finished covering one of Alex Honnold's most epic adventures for REEL ROCK 7 - The Solo Triple Crown in about 18 hours. Watkins, El Cap, and Half Dome, 90% free solo with a little bit of aid. Yesterday he started up Watkins at 4PM and topped out in 2:20, a speed record in itself. Next was The Nose, in 6 hours, in the dark. He forgot his chalk bag and had to borrow one from aid climbers half way up. Topped out Half Dome at 10:45 this morning. Here he is looking worked on the summit an hour ago. "OK," he finally admitted, "that was a big deal."
that is a big deal
Bloody Hell indeed , phenomenal !
For a moment I thought he might have free soloed The Nose, but I presume he aided some of it from the write-up. Honnold might just be the one to finally put that one to bed....
That has to be the ultimate goal. Two massive hurdles though. The Great Roof and The Changing Corners.
Both pitches are totally safe in terms of gear but if Great Roof is 13d and Changing Corners is 14a that gives French grades of 8b and 8b+ repectively.
Not only that, these two pitches rely on desperate, awkward smearing and not positive edging and crimping.
Are pitches like these ever going to be soloed 2500ft of the ground?
Are they ever soloed >100 ft off the ground?
Well there's probably not a lot of difference between a 100ft Desmond and a 2500ft Desmond apart from the mess being spread out over a wider area.
What was the hard sport route DM soloed in Spain. Was it a roof which wasn't too far off the ground?
I think he's capable of it, I suspect the fact that he climbed The Nose entirely in the dark is probably why he aided parts of it this time round, there's footage of him storming through the Great Roof pitch only grabbing a piece of tat whilst simul-climbing it with Ueli Steck. Changing Corners probably wouldn't be fun, mind.
Thre's an iteresting article he wrote in this month's 'Rock and Ice' mag. about his early days, how he got into soloing etc. And how often he fell off! Worth the read.
> Are pitches like these ever going to be soloed 2500ft of the ground?
Didn't Lynn Hill work out a move for the changing corners ptich that had something like 30 movements just to turn around?
I read that Dean Potter had free soloed the entirety of El Cap.. Perhaps beat Honnold to it then..
Maybe, he's been climbing a bit with Hazel Findlay, and you'd have to wonder about your orientation if you didn't fancy asking her out for a drink!
I know some people have used this setup, can't find out who and I don't know if the pitches are suitable for this.
> I know some people have used this setup, can't find out who and I don't know if the pitches are suitable for this.
Tommy Caldwell freeBASE on the Eiger?
Sorry yes my mistake, Potter rather than Caldwell.
> I read that Dean Potter had free soloed the entirety of El Cap.. Perhaps beat Honnold to it then..
He used a fair bit of aid when he soloed it. Think there's a vid on youtube of it if you're interested.
Wow amazingly impressive, just wondering though, in terms of Metres how 'far' has he climbed in that time?
> He used a fair bit of aid when he soloed it. Think there's a vid on youtube of it if you're interested.
Yes, he aids the Great Roof and it's bloody scary watching him balance across on micro cams!!
As for the Free base thing. If you fell off the crux of the Changing Corners pitch you's have about 20metres to open your chute before you slammed into Camp 6!
Plus you would have to make hard, technical moves with a cumbersome pack on your back throwing your weight off balance even more than it would be anyway! Would be as much of a hindrence as a safety measure surely?
And, it's not that great 'cos some of the holds were chalked. You can never properly forget your chalk bag these days.
> Plus you would have to make hard, technical moves with a cumbersome pack on your back throwing your weight off balance even more than it would be anyway!
FreeBASE chutes are about 3lb.
> FreeBASE chutes are about 3lb.
OK, so not as bad as I first thought but surely the kind of moves you need to be doing on changing corners would be harder to do free with any kind of rucksack on your back?
Here you go - wanna solo this?
They wear them in a tiny pouch like a chalkbag size
You can see Dean Potter's in The Sharp End, i think
It is not a cumbersome rucksack and possibly well under 3lb, I may have misremembered.
here's a 6lb version
Sure I saw a smaller one on him though in some film footage
> Here you go - wanna solo this?
I'd quite like to be good enough to genuinely consider it!
This guy just continues to amaze me. I hope he continues to do so. So modest about his achievements aswell, Just a day out on the wall for hm.
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