/ Alex Honnold - unbelievable!

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Enty - on 06 Jun 2012
From the Reel Rock facebook page:

Wow! Just finished covering one of Alex Honnold's most epic adventures for REEL ROCK 7 - The Solo Triple Crown in about 18 hours. Watkins, El Cap, and Half Dome, 90% free solo with a little bit of aid. Yesterday he started up Watkins at 4PM and topped out in 2:20, a speed record in itself. Next was The Nose, in 6 hours, in the dark. He forgot his chalk bag and had to borrow one from aid climbers half way up. Topped out Half Dome at 10:45 this morning. Here he is looking worked on the summit an hour ago. "OK," he finally admitted, "that was a big deal."

Bloody hell!!

E
Enty - on 06 Jun 2012
Michael Ryan - on 06 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:

that is a big deal
Elrond - on 06 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty: Beast.
Styx - on 06 Jun 2012
Incredible stuff!
Milesy - on 06 Jun 2012
Look forward to the 2012 DVD coming. He is nuts that lad.
LaMentalist on 06 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:

Bloody Hell indeed , phenomenal !
poeticshambles - on 06 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty: His fitness and ability is definitely in the realms of Olympic athletes IMO. Amazing, hope he continues to dazzle us all for many years to come.
PeteH - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:
For a moment I thought he might have free soloed The Nose, but I presume he aided some of it from the write-up. Honnold might just be the one to finally put that one to bed....
Enty - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to PeteH:

That has to be the ultimate goal. Two massive hurdles though. The Great Roof and The Changing Corners.
Both pitches are totally safe in terms of gear but if Great Roof is 13d and Changing Corners is 14a that gives French grades of 8b and 8b+ repectively.
Not only that, these two pitches rely on desperate, awkward smearing and not positive edging and crimping.
Are pitches like these ever going to be soloed 2500ft of the ground?

E
Jon Read - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:
Are they ever soloed >100 ft off the ground?
Enty - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Jon Read:

Well there's probably not a lot of difference between a 100ft Desmond and a 2500ft Desmond apart from the mess being spread out over a wider area.

What was the hard sport route DM soloed in Spain. Was it a roof which wasn't too far off the ground?

E
James Oswald - on 07 Jun 2012
Styx - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:

I think he's capable of it, I suspect the fact that he climbed The Nose entirely in the dark is probably why he aided parts of it this time round, there's footage of him storming through the Great Roof pitch only grabbing a piece of tat whilst simul-climbing it with Ueli Steck. Changing Corners probably wouldn't be fun, mind.
JimboWizbo - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty: Did I read that he has a girlfriend now? I assumed that was the end of his big wall soloing!
Fraser on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:

Thre's an iteresting article he wrote in this month's 'Rock and Ice' mag. about his early days, how he got into soloing etc. And how often he fell off! Worth the read.
Max factor - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to PeteH)
>
> Are pitches like these ever going to be soloed 2500ft of the ground?
>
I think you answered your own question there. Not unless someone has a deathwish.

Didn't Lynn Hill work out a move for the changing corners ptich that had something like 30 movements just to turn around?
Elrond - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to PeteH:

I read that Dean Potter had free soloed the entirety of El Cap.. Perhaps beat Honnold to it then..
Styx - on 07 Jun 2012
There's a quick Q&A with Honnold about it on the TNF site:

http://www.neverstopexploring.com/blog/2012/06/qa-alex-honnold-on-his-solo-triple.html
Dave 88 - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to JimboWizbo:
> Did I read that he has a girlfriend now?

Maybe, he's been climbing a bit with Hazel Findlay, and you'd have to wonder about your orientation if you didn't fancy asking her out for a drink!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Jamie Currie on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty: The 2500ft one may have a chance to open a parachute on the way down?
I know some people have used this setup, can't find out who and I don't know if the pitches are suitable for this.
Tom Last - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Jamie Currie:
> (In reply to Enty) The 2500ft one may have a chance to open a parachute on the way down?
> I know some people have used this setup, can't find out who and I don't know if the pitches are suitable for this.

Tommy Caldwell freeBASE on the Eiger?
JimboWizbo - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Southern Man: I think he's referring to Dean Potter. As far as I know nobody else has attempted Freebase. (Correct me if I'm wrong)
Tom Last - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to JimboWizbo:
> (In reply to Southern Man) I think he's referring to Dean Potter. As far as I know nobody else has attempted Freebase. (Correct me if I'm wrong)

Sorry yes my mistake, Potter rather than Caldwell.
remus - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Hazelnuts:
> (In reply to PeteH)
>
> I read that Dean Potter had free soloed the entirety of El Cap.. Perhaps beat Honnold to it then..

He used a fair bit of aid when he soloed it. Think there's a vid on youtube of it if you're interested.
Alan Dixon - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:

Wow amazingly impressive, just wondering though, in terms of Metres how 'far' has he climbed in that time?

Al
Enty - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to remus:
> (In reply to Hazelnuts)
> [...]
>
> He used a fair bit of aid when he soloed it. Think there's a vid on youtube of it if you're interested.

Yes, he aids the Great Roof and it's bloody scary watching him balance across on micro cams!!

As for the Free base thing. If you fell off the crux of the Changing Corners pitch you's have about 20metres to open your chute before you slammed into Camp 6!

E
PebblePusher - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to remus)

> As for the Free base thing. If you fell off the crux of the Changing Corners pitch you's have about 20metres to open your chute before you slammed into Camp 6!

Plus you would have to make hard, technical moves with a cumbersome pack on your back throwing your weight off balance even more than it would be anyway! Would be as much of a hindrence as a safety measure surely?

Purple - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty: Yeah, but what's he ever done on............etc.

And, it's not that great 'cos some of the holds were chalked. You can never properly forget your chalk bag these days.
Blue Straggler - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to PebblePusher:
> (In reply to Enty)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> Plus you would have to make hard, technical moves with a cumbersome pack on your back throwing your weight off balance even more than it would be anyway!

FreeBASE chutes are about 3lb.
PebblePusher - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Blue Straggler:
> (In reply to PebblePusher)
> [...]
>
> FreeBASE chutes are about 3lb.

OK, so not as bad as I first thought but surely the kind of moves you need to be doing on changing corners would be harder to do free with any kind of rucksack on your back?
Enty - on 07 Jun 2012
Blue Straggler - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to PebblePusher:

They wear them in a tiny pouch like a chalkbag size
You can see Dean Potter's in The Sharp End, i think

It is not a cumbersome rucksack and possibly well under 3lb, I may have misremembered.

here's a 6lb version
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1267478/Climber-Dean-Potter-scales-Eiger-safety-equipment-ju...

Sure I saw a smaller one on him though in some film footage
PebblePusher - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to Enty)
>
> Here you go - wanna solo this?

I'd quite like to be good enough to genuinely consider it!

diddler - on 07 Jun 2012
In reply to Enty:

This guy just continues to amaze me. I hope he continues to do so. So modest about his achievements aswell, Just a day out on the wall for hm.

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