In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:
Tom, brilliant series of videos that I really enjoyed. Many thanks to both of you.
I too had a question about the cams.
On the one hand I think you are right about undercammed big cams - if it is only 5% cammed, you still might have as much as quarter of an inch of rock to play with. A Nr. 2 cam would need to be 20% cammed to give you the same quarter of an inch of reach (percentages for the sake of illustration only). In other words, big cams often look worse than they are if you are used to assessing normal sizes.
My question? Do you also find that microcams are in fact, for the same reason, much worse to fall on in practice? Even a perfectly cammed microcam will not give you that same quarter of an inch to play with. Since there are usually only 3 lobes on this smaller gear, if one goes, the cam is pretty much gone. Being a coward I tend not to fall on microcams (only one 10 ft fall onto two perfect microcams, also backed up with a big cam below) which went well. Do you know any more?
Given the super high quality of microcams these days with their very good ratings (7 kn or something for the currently smallest green BD microcam) I just worry that the protection is desperately dependent on just a couple of slivers of rock or a nubbin here or there to hold the fall, especially on softer rock like grit.
Best
Luca