UKC

Just now, Friday 8 June at 20:30, Adam Ondra fell at the top crux on his long awaited flash attempt of Biographie, 9a+, at Céüse, France.
This means he succeeded in flashing the first part which, as the start crux (8Aish) has become significantly harder after a break, most certainly must be a...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67177

So that's one of my predictions for this year dashed! I bet he gets it really quick. Still gambling on Ondra bagging the second assent of Jumbo Love!

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:


Absolutely Björn. This route was a milestone. So who's going to get it then?

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: real bad luck. The boy is inspiration. Bloody amazing effort anyway.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
That was a long awaited attempt. Was it filmed?
Out of curiosity what's the deal with the name? I thought Biographie was the the 8c part and the 9a+ was "Realisation" Or is the whole thing now just called Biographie?

In reply to KatBlum: Depends who you ask. I think 'the french way' is that the equipper names the route, whether they climb it or not, whereas 'the US/UK way' is that the FA names it.

In reply to KatBlum:

Quote from 8a.nu:

"Biographie was bolted and named by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1989. In 1996, Arnaud Petit put up an anchor half way up and did the 8c+ first ascent. In 2001, Chris Sharma climbed the original full pitch calling it Realization in order to avoid confusion between the two lines. Later on the first anchor was removed and these days the whole line is called Biographie even by Chris."