/ UKC fit club week 273
I'm going away to Colorado and the Dolomites so probably won't be posting.
Would anyone like to take the baton on the 1st?
Can be for 8 weeks or permanent, I don't mind.
There are lots of absentees this week despite having a few returners/new posters
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (272) thread:
Joughton – Great News on the E5.
Sankey – Good week
IanT – Glad you managed to climb a lot, and saw some progression.
Liz j – Nice to hear Liz. I would suggest eating after the run is possibly more important than before. Anyway well done on the distance.
Biscuit – Thanks mate, I think endurance in the last month has made a difference.
Busy week for you. Go for the 7a+ RP, oh and never say take!
Si-dH – Have a lovely time. See you back in a few weeks.
NMN – less than ideal!
Seankenny – Two good sessions. Shame about the hay fever.
Migs493 – Hello! You seem to work from a much more traditional broader pyramid, having many more 7as under your belt. I have a feeling you’ll get a 7b easily with a couple of sessions.
Grubes – Sounds like a tough day, dehydration has a big effect eh.
Steve John B - Shame about the knee. How about smashing the weights extra hard while you rest it?
Chris05 – Yeah it’s pretty exciting to see marked improvements. I’m not done yet, I’ve got 2 more weeks of endurance before putting it to use! Well done on 7A and running volume. Have you considered interval training? Might give you some big benefits considering you manage to run so much anyway.
Mrchewey – Good effort squeezing those in around your work. Sounds like you earned your sleep.
Andy - Good to see the fitness fitting in with the commutes.
Mattrm – Well done getting on the HVS. Technique definitely helps, but a lot of trad is also about tactics, all the decisions you make and how you rest. I’m sure this will come with experience, or preferably climbing with people who have experience. Regards technique, there’s loads to say and I’m sure you’ve done your own research. However my personal view is to warm up as carefully as possible (learning technique when you’re not tired) and finding ways to rest on routes.
Leon – Good work on the quick 7a. Now smash those 4x4s for left wall!
Jgustafsson – Glad the ankle’s better. Good luck on Big Kahuna
IainRUK – Great week.
Eagle River – Sounds like a worthwhile week to me, but more real rock sounds like a good plan.
Ian – Sounds like a great trip. I bet multi pitch 6c is exciting.
Laim M – Post Hill looks brutal. Well done on a hard week.
The New Nick B – Strong Mile Intervals, hopefully you can get a 5k PB soon.
Ayuplass – Great Week. Crackstone rib looks lovely. I like your mentality with press ups and sit ups, easy exercise to do regularly.
Richard Popp – Glad you can identify improvements. You should be getting some gains from regular finger boarding too.
Ali – Hope you get more done this week.
Stone Donkey – A change of climbing partner can be refreshing, glad it worked for you.
M- Bouldering at the works, average, climbed rubbish.
T- Derby, tried to do as many 6s as possible, got to 25 each, averaging just over 3 min a route. Silly but fun, we were taking whippers off 6bs by the end.
W-Run in boots, 6 mile in 50min, walked a couple of fields so happy enough.
T-Achieved my goal of 3 laps on my woodie circuit, and made a slightly harder one for the next couple of weeks :)
F-Derby, 7b+ with 2 falls, then again with 1 fall. Feel fit on routes atm, pretty exciting.
S-Works, knackered but did circuits, including one lap of the 7a+ circuit.
S-Interval running: 230m, 230 280 480 480 280 230 230. Longish rests in between.
Feeling fitter for routes at last. As I got stronger last year my route grade never improved, but I think it's finally improving with some dedicated circuits sessions. Also very happy to get to indoor walls so much.
Cheers Dan. I could probably do a week or two out of that - will see who else responds but I'm sure between us we can put something together!
- Strength/power training indoors to complement outdoor rock miles
- Pocket focus on fingerboard
- 10% body fat (racing weight)
- Bike odometer record - 613km
- Rolling average weight/body fat - ?
<STG> - before October sport trip
- Maintain fitness and sport head
- Tick some more of the pyramid, including trying at least one 7c+
<MTG> - 2012
- Complete 7c+ pyramid (currently completed 7/8 x 7b, 2/4 x 7b+, 1/2 x 7c, 0/1 x 7c+)
- 20 x 7as/E2s or above in good style [completed: 5x 7a onsight, 6x E2 onsight]
- 7a+ onsight
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
Bumper update from me starting last Saturday at the start of our mini-Scottish-roadtrip...
S: Drove up. Arrived in Glen Nevis after lunch. Went up to Gorge crag and did Travellin Man and Plague of Blazes, 2 E2s. Both very nice. Seconded an HS in the evening too.
S: Hut was busy and full of snorers so we decided to bail on it. Also the wind was cold and the air temperature out of the sun low, so we wussed out of the idea of big mountain classics and decided to stay in the sun and go cragging. So we drove to Torridon, and went to Diabaig. Did the classic HVS and then the midges came out. Since we had only decided on Scotland on Thursday we were woefully unprepared for this so fled!
M: Back to Diabaig with a stronger breeze, some midge hats and some chemical weaponry. Did The Pillar, the classic soft E2, which was very good. Also a nice VS round the corner.
T: Went for a walk round to the Triple Buttresses as a restful day.
W: Went up to the Loch Tollaidh crags near Gairloch. Did The Bug, which is like the Pillar but harder and better. E2 number 4 down!
T: Went to Creag Dubh in the morning before driving down South. Backed off The Hill - steep and bold which would have been ok if it hadn't been for the fact the holds had that slightly-too-good-to-be-true nature about them - I was worried they might snap and I did find a chalk covered one which wobbled. Basically just didn't want it enough. Next time.
F: Si dH's wedding. Very nice day out after a very-nearly-late arrival!
S: Turns out that whilst I get worse hangovers from drink than I used to, my tolerance for drinking it on the night itself has stayed pretty high. This is not a good combination. Grotty morning though so didn't miss much. My other half had been feeling ill for a few days and she felt wretched enough that we decided to come home instead of staying for an afternoons climbing. Did get a Siurana guide for the autumn trip though, get the inspiration juices flowing!
S: Due to be doing family stuff today so maybe a fingerboard later on.
Good trip, pleased with it. Shame to have not got on an E3 - I did consider it instead of the Big but it looked like a bit of an undertaking, and to be fair the Bug was excellent anyway. There was an E3 the guide had made look good at Creag Dubh as well, the direct on the Hill, but maybe another time. Felt pretty steady on the E2s though so just need to keep getting on those and start trying E3s too with the confidence the trip has given. Gt a trip to Sharpnose on the cards in a month so need to keep the foot on the trad pedal until then...
Ate too much though, so some strict diet control this week and probably some indoor sessions when it's wet are on the cards - clock is ticking on projects now so it's time to stop doing silly things that hinder my chances and start keeping eyes firmly on the prize.
I can help out. If i say i'll do the 1st and the 8th to get the ball rolling?
Thanks again for the stats this week Dan.
Bit of a NNFN for me this week.
I have been fighting against a bad right elbow for about 3 months now and i am going to have to finally admit defeat. It hurts to open a door, write, drive, open a bottle, cooking, picking up the kettle, bend my elbow to full lock, put my sunglasses on and most importantly it hurts after climbing. Cenizo killed it a couple of weeks ago. I don't notice it at the time but anything pinchy or with undercuts is bad news. Belaying is also hurting it. I had an American physio as a client last week and she took a look for me and gave me some exercises to do and advised either laying off totally for a couple of weeks or dropping right back.
I can stop climbing/belaying as it's my job but i think i am going to have to lay off the FB for a while and stop climbing hard. It hurt the other day after a 6b so not sure how easy i need to go.
Anyway i feel happier for having made the decision and i have found a physio in Spain who is Danish but studied,qualified and practiced for a while in Sheffield and says she is well clued up with climbing injuries. Hopefully going to get an appt tomorrow but if not i am busy with work and it'll be another week or so.
So in the meanwhile i am going to get a grip on my body fat which is back up to 13-14% again by cutting the crap/drinking out. I've had 3 nights this week where bedtime was between 4-6am. Not good. Going to get some running in each day. Also some core, stretching and re-hab stuff whatever that turns out to be.
Not too downhearted. Still got 7 mths to get 7c and i'll be in better shape for it.
STG (end of Aug):
RP Mr bluesky
Climb on Slate
MTG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
This weeks goals:
A couple of sessions outside - got one.
Trad - no
Maybe some sport - no
Depot comp? - Yup went well too
S: Depot comp. Not climbed for a week finger hurt on the warm ups. Then I got into it. I score my best comp score so far pretty happy with myself. 168 points previous best was 154
S: Holmfirth. Muggy sweaty tired (no idea why). Disheartened to find a project had been butchered by an improved foothold. Tried a good looking arete I had not been on before. but did not finish needs a good brush and some gradening. Landing is a bad one.
Next Weeks goals:
Not feeling great and pretty tired I don't know why. I think it could be the conditions. Its so humid at minute because of all the rain.
Thanks for the stats Dan. Hope you enjoy your trip away.
Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, DQS of 20+ each day next week
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - No idea, scales haven't surfaced yet
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Core and knee rehab
T - Core and knee rehab
F - Bouldering
S - Tip run - 1hr + knee rehab
S - Tip run - 1hr
Not an awful week. Knee still crap. It's going to take a while to sort it tho. Good bouldering session. Got a V2 in, which is good for me. Need to start trying the odd V3 and try and consolidate V2 a bit more. Did all the V1s first go. Went to Climb Station/V9 Bouldering which is a newish bouldering wall in South Wales. Been there a bit, it's dead quiet there, which is nice, but worrying for the survival of the place. It's a good wall, so hope it stays around.
Started working out my Diet Quality Score ala Racing Weight. Hasn't gone well, I think the best day was 8. I'm going to hit the diet hard next week, so STG is 20+ each day. Shouldn't be that hard. As it's mainly my evening meal where I go wrong. The breakfast isn't great, but not awful either and lunch is all + scores.
Must stress re the HVS, I was seconding, not leading. As I fell off so early and prussiked/was winched up the route (mainly cause I couldn't see holds as it was dark by then), I've not even recorded it. It's very stiff for HVS and plenty say it's E1. My mate fell off 4 times whilst seconding it and he could actually see the damn holds. I got to the top at about 2245ish.
Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).
MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Trad road trip goal not no happening as off to the Alps for some multipitch.
LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP 7b+ in Kalmynos end of Sep
M / T - in Switzerland, covered by last weeks entry.
W - S - rest
Sun - routes at the Westway. Mostly around 6b - 6c range. Lead and then top roped a nice 6c+ / 7a, only one rest on TR. Should go in another attempt or 2.
Hard work climbing indoors again! PE is still pretty rubbish as i haven't done any for a while. no more outdoors for the next 2 weekends for me so need to make sure i stay on it indoors. good news is still feeling fairly strong. have bought some body mass scales, have a getting in shape challenge with the gf for Kalymnos in mid Sep. think i need to get a decent training plan put in so i can peak for that trip and hopefully manage 7b / 7b+.
Trad goal routses are still looking rather far away as i never do any trad!
Biscuit - Hope that elbow sorts, had issues myself a few years back and made it much worse by carrying on. Happy healing.
The daughter being home from Uni and cooking dinner etc has made a huge difference for me time-wise. It's been a decent week, even allowing for the still long hours at work and with the Ultra in just two weeks... my head's in a better place.
M - 2 mile run and core work
T - 10k in 48min. Fastest 10k this year but hadn't noticed I'd ran any quicker during it.
W - 2 miles of alternate 15m sprints and 15m jogs. Core work.
T - Rest day
F - Core and upper body stuff.
S - 17 miles in two and a half hours. Walked up the few hills as I will in the race, then did an 8min last mile, half of which was uphill. Can't say it didn't hurt (arthritic knees will always hurt) but felt fine very quickly.
S - 1 hour run but unsure of mileage, between 6 and 7 I guess. Woke up with the hangover from hell but not an ache in the legs from the 17 mile run. Happy days!
So 34 miles this week, which isn't the 50 I'd have liked but that's down to the job. The daughter played a big part in me achieving that many. Had an hour at work climbing architectural mouldings, gotta keep my hand in a little as probably cragging in the Alps in July as opposed to alpine stuff. Catching up with Joe Mohle from SA whilst he's over for the summer, so hopefully I'll come back a better climber. If I can't learn from a guy who's no. 3 in the 8a trad rankings - well, I'm never going to am I?
Strange old week - no progress but plenty of activity:
M - Few routes at Horseshoe but finding 6b+ very hard, even ended up RP one that I've done before.
T - Cycle 2 hrs mix of road and trail
W - Rest knackered
T - 30 min run & 30 min core
F - Bouldering at works 30+ but nothing above 6b
S - Caving 6hrs inc 150mts jumaring (good work out)
S - Caving 4hrs, no jumaring but full on workout.
Have a great time on your travels - anything in particular you aiming for?
> Have a great time on your travels - anything in particular you aiming for?
I bet jumaring was hard work.
Colorado is a DTUS exchange with USAFA, sadly no climbing planned for the whole month! I'll have to be inventive so I don't lose any fitness for the RAF climbing champs in sept.
Dolomites should be fun, organised by Rob Gillman. Not expecting any hard climbing.
I'm more concerned about achieving as much as possible before I leave.
Thanks for doing the stats Dan.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon
M - nothing.
T - nothing.
W - on holiday.
T - on holiday.
F - on holiday.
S - on holiday.
S - 15.59m trail run, 3,235ft.
I have struggled to get going again after Skye, but hopefully now I have made a start I will get back in to things.
Here's to a decent summer eh?
Good to see you're keeping positive about the elbow Andy. Hope it clears quick.
I've had a look at my calendar and I've realised I have non-climbing weekends the 14/15 July and the 22/23 July, so I could start the thread on those two.
So that's 4 of the weeks sorted.....
If anyone can do weeks after that it would be great.
You don't have to make personal comments, as long as a thread is started!
Thanks Dan, I can do a week in July, but not August.
Goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap.
M: Drove to Millstone, seconded my mate on an E1, Dexterity, then got on Gates of Mordor, E3 and one of my target routes for the year. Got half-way up the crack (the crux) on my first go and then peeled. Gave it another two goes but couldn't get the last move. Spent after that.
T: Bouldered up to 6B+ at Stanage. Drove home.
W: 2.3m run.
T: Physio session.
F: Westway, laps session, 5 laps. 3m40s on, 3m40s - 4m off. 4th lap to 2m40s. 5th lap to 2m30s. Really hard work with bad hayfever.
S: 3.2m run, day out with gf after.
S: Routes at Westway. 6a+, 6b, 6b+/6c, 6a+, 6b, 6c (1 rest before last move but did the last two routes pretty much back-to-back).
So a pretty good week. I was pleased to get on Gates of Mordor as it was really intimidating - completely overhanging with the crux at the end. Even tho I didn't do it, I know where I need to be to be climbing this sort of level. A bit stronger, a bit fitter, a bit quicker at placing gear. But it's not impossibly far away.
Not sure if I'm making progress on my laps, but I think so, as I've been much stricter with timings than before.
If you are interested in giving it a go, you are welcome to take one of mine. Happy either way, but most people who give it a go seem to find it an interesting experience, so if you fancy doing a week then just speak up!
I can do 15th July.
Hi I forgot to say I can probably do a week or two in August
Rubbish week again. Life getting in the way, no psych.
Managed a couple of 5m runs and an aborted trip to the Churnet. Hopefully get back on it this week, maybe.
Cheers Dan. Zero tolerance for absentees I see! :-) I have the excuse that we were down on Portland for jubilee week.
I might be able to do a week or two of FC in August.
Last week I achieved my VLTG from my very first ever FC entry back in week 100. How weird does that feel? Back in 2008 after doing my first 7s on my first trip to Kalymnos, I set myself the goal of climbing an 8a by my 30th birthday (Jan 2012) - I managed it 5 months late.
S: Cuttings. FT day 9. 3 goes, After reaching a bit of a sticking point at 7th move on the crux, went back to working it. Linked top section a couple of times clean in a row, and did it without the clip already in (bit of a psychological crux). Best RP go, managed to get to my high point and cross over for, but not hold the crimp - let's call it move 7.5.
S: FT day 10. Warmed up on Too Many Cooks & managed to do Mindmeld in a 1-er. 4 goes on FT, first (bolt to bolt to get clips in) was best go of the day. 1st RP managed to stick the crossover (move 8). 2 more RPs with deteriorating conditions and backwards progress.
M: Warmed up on Consomme, feeling utterly battered. Took rest of the day off.
T: Rain - rested.
W: FT day 11. Warmed up on European Flavour and dogged Holy Hand Grenade. Had a brief torrential shower which soaked the crag, but the wind was drying it out pretty quickly. Got clips in, bizarrely superb conditions. Had 3 RPs. First go stuck crimp (move 8). 2nd go started the move up to the thumb sprag (move 8.5). 3rd go managed to touch thumb sprag but not hold it.
T: rain - rest.
F: FT day 12. Warmed up on The Sod & dogged Mindmeld. Gale force winds - ok on the ground but on the crux of your route there was so much wind it felt like you should have a power ballad soundtrack. Realistically the best weather window likely to come along for a while - too much sun/not enough wind on Sat and then rain forecast. 1st RP was a false start, falling out of the move to the undercuts (move 2). 2nd go managed to make the crossover but hand wasn't set quite right on the crimp so couldn't move over. 3rd go - feeling a bit shit and tentative stepping up on the undercuts, then suddenly got to the flowstone and knew it was going to go. Conditions felt really good, super sticky, better than they had ever felt. Crossover felt fine, then the move to the thumb sprag, getting my foot on (technical crux for me) and the tricky unwind to the fingerjug all felt really, really easy. Did the next moves to the shake on total autopilot. Got as much back at the shake as possible, then totally nearly dropped the move getting feet high and throwing for the crozzly sloper but managed to stick it, just, and hang in there until the chains. Ticked. :-D Had 2 goes on Nightmare Scenario trying out Curious Yellow's beta.
S: Warmed up on The Sod & Mindmeld. Nightmare Scenario - 3 goes. Got all the moves and a link from the crux move to the sloper at the end of the crux. Ace route, feels v technical and well tenuous. Keen to do it.
S: grimy and drizzly. Went to the crag, weren't really feeling it, sacked it off and got train back to London. Went to the biscuit factory and felt wasted.
hmm what now? Want to consolidate the upper 7s - FT felt like the hardest thing I had ever done, by a fair margin - still don't feel very solid at all at 7b+ or up, and there are loads of really good ones I want to do, so it would be great if I could get to a place where I could knock out 7b+/c in a weekend. Next academic year is going to be pretty intense so I would settle for consolidating progress in 2012/2013, do one or two more 7c+/8as (hopefully over a shorter time scale), maybe have the odd play on an 8a+... who knows? (I might even do some trad...!)
Wow great news.
4 years from 7a to 8a.
I'd say that's worth writing an article about your progression :P
Seriously well done
Thanks Dan, for the as ever encouraging comments last week and for keeping the thread going. Absent last week cos I was in Scotland, which was amazing. Will add last weekend to the update this week.
I can do a few weeks while you are away, how about I do 29/7, 5/8 and 12/8?
STG: keep going at HVS and onsight a UK Fr6c.
MTG: onsight E1
Sat: Stone Valley Crag, near Gairloch, onsight 2 x HVS.
Sun: Diabaig, onsight Route Two (HVS), my main goal for the trip.
Mon: Diabaig again. My climbing partner had been off sick on Sunday so thought I'd do the decent thing and give her a go at Route Two too. I led the pitch I'd not led on Sunday.
Tues: Big long hill walk up Ruadh-stac Mòr and Spidean Coire nan Clach, back via the huge and impressive Triple Buttresses
Wed: 6 mile run round Gairloch
Fri: Ratho wall, onsight up to 6c, and 6c+ with one rest.
Sat: 7 mile run round, then quick swim in, Crummock Water.
Sun: Short session at Moughton Nab, onsight up to 6b then 6c 2nd go.
Really good weekend in Scotland. HVS is now feeling like a comfortable grade with the climbing feeling pretty steady. Putting in gear is feeling less stressful now too so I've added E1 as a MTG. The Sarge Crag Slab E1 I did the other day was a good confidence booster but I know a proper E1 will feel much harder. If I can find one with a well protected crux then I reckon I can have a go. Not sure when I'll next be tradding tho.
Still not onsighted a Fr6c in this country. The routes are harder to onsight here I think and maybe a touch harder technically. Not sure if I should start working something harder instead, maybe a 7a or 7b. It might take me more than one day to get a harder route but it might actually do more for my climbing to RP a hard route rather than keeping on at 6c. I think I might be missing something by not getting on hard (for me) routes. Hmm.
Awesome!! Inspiring!! Well done!!
Reading through the first half of your week is almost like deja vu! We must have crossed paths.... I'm pretty sure we had a chat at the belay on Route Two on Sunday. And then my mate and I passed you on our way down from Triple Butresses on Tuesday? We were the sweaty pair rushing to get my mate back to her car so she could get back to York at a reasonable hour, I made a comment about having seen you on Route Two on Sunday? Ring any bells?
We must have crossed paths, given that I was on Route two on Sunday and walking round the back of the Triple Buttresss a few days later. Were you in the party of 3 we followed up Route two?
Nice one matey. Effort ++. 8a+ next? Why not! I'm sure you could get to 8b!
ha ha, yep! good to put a face to name, so to speak. You had a good day on Monday, good going on the Pillar. My mate had a look at it but decided not to. It's on my list for a few years time :-)
That is certainly my experience.
I would do that. It depends on the crags you climb at but I tend to see sport climbing in the UK as mostly being about redpointing, and save the onsighting for when I'm abroad, and routes are more sustained and easier to read. Keep trying them but deffo don't let it get you down. FWIW I was redpointing 7b/+ before I felt remotely solid at onsighting 6c in this country. (thinking about it, I still feel distinctly 50/50 on uk f6c o/s!)
BLOODY AWESOME !
Well happy for you.
A lot of hard work has gone into that.
How does it feel to reach an arbitrary grade that doesn't actually mean anything in the real world but we all want ? ;0)
I might put something on a blog if I get round to it...
gonna give myself some time off before I start thinking about the next big goal... in the quest for 8a I've sacrificed a lot of just going out and having fun, and I'm quite keen to go to some cool places and have adventures I've been missing out on. But for sure I don't want to stop now! :-)
Thanks for the volunteers. One more week to fill
Anticlimactic, as one would expect :-)
Thanks for that, good to know it's not just me! I do feel a bit like I'm wasting my time endlessly attempting 6cs. I'll switch tactics from now on.
Brilliant Nick. Well chuffed for you.
Saw physio on Wednesday who diagnosed absurdly tight quads as the cause of my knee pain. 30 minutes of sadistic massage later I was given some stretches and foam roller stuff to do twice a day and told not to run for 3 weeks. Apart from that I've sat on my behind and done very little. At least it's not a tendon problem.
Goals (by the end of 2012): want a 7b+ and a 7b in a single visit in the UK (as I've done it abroad but find it much more difficult here!). More specifically I'd like to do the central ice fall to wobble block bit of the traverse at craig y longridge.
Tues: Another indoor bouldering session, still felt a bit sore from Sunday's session but was pleased to tick off some more V6s and did two more V7s.
Thurs: Routes indoors, felt pretty pathetic as this was the first routes session indoors for ages and was still aching from the bouldering sessions. However, all new routes since I last left on the main overhanging sections at Stockport so plenty to go at but no real acheivements of note,
Saturday: Routes indoors, much better session as I felt a lot more rested. Had a few goes at a really good 7c set by ian vickers. Felt really really hard but after 3 goes I'd done all the moves and linked from the floor to halfway (past the two hardest bits) so was pleased with that. Then flashed one 7a and failed to flash a 7a and 7a+.
Next two weekends are booked up with non-climbing stuff so I'm hoping I can get up to Longridge if the rain holds off in the evenings this week.
Well done on the HVS. Good effort. The more gear you place the more you learn how to place it. Also you will probably of had an e-mail from nik regarding trad.
Well done nick you earned that.
Enjoy the break and think what you want to achieve.
Remeber last time you had a break for your exams you came back firing on all cylinders, it might work again ;o)
> What do you enjoy more? A fight for an onsight or a battle for a red point?
Well, I *would* be inspired for onsighting except I'm now just put off cos I keep failing! And I end up walking past quality 7a's and 7b's to get to my sometimes fairly shitty 6c's. I'm going to switch to RPing now I think, depending on what's on offer at the crag I'm at.
Hi, I think I must have met you at the cuttings (I was the guy who lost a rope on Sun). I didn't realise you'd had such a great week, congratulations! Really inspiring post, thanks!
In reply to Jonathan Emett:
Good to meet you and chat over the weekend. You got any plans to get back on haute cuisine soon? might see you down there... Good luck getting your rope back!
Said already, but just to reiterate, good effort and an inspiring commitment to getting the job done!
Thanks Daniel. Not been a good week and I have re-evaluated one of my short term objectives, but more of that later.
Short Term: Build up my training miles, running and on the bike. Chip away at my 5k times aiming towards my PB from last year of 18:29, beat my combined time for the Rochdale Harriers 3 Day Event from last year (8-10 June) complete the Trail Marathon Wales, time not too important, just want to feel like I had a decent run (23 June). Not do anything to set back my shoulder injury (rotator cuff) recovery.
Medium Term: Running 50+ miles a week on average, cycling 50+ miles a week on average. New PBs for 5k, 10k and half marathon, ideally 18:15, 38:00 and 1:23:00. Some climbing without shoulder problems.
Long Term: London Marathon in April 2013, sub 3 hour. Sub 17:30 for 5k, sub 36:00 for 10k and sub 1:20:00 for the half. Lots of climbing without shoulder problems.
Monday – Nothing.
Tuesday - An easy 6 miles with club mates.
Wednesday – Nothing.
Thursday – Nothing.
Friday – First day of Three Day Event, 6.1 mile road race with 700’ of ascent. Horrific weather, cold, wet and windy with poor visibility. Set off too fast and to my great surprise led for the first half mile, struggled a bit after a mile and a half of climbing then got my act together and finished 11th.
Saturday – 6 mile three lap trail race, started well but soon began to struggle with left hip and calf which slowed me down a bit.
Sunday – 6 mile 1300’ fell race. Woke up with a very sore hip and calf, should not have even tried to race, was OK on the first mile up, which was not too steep, but as soon as I got on steeper terrain my calf started screaming and threatening to go, knowing there was much worse to come, I decided to pull out. Hobbled around for the rest of the day and still quite sore today.
So I rested most of the week but I didn’t manage to complete the Three Day Event and have a minor injury, hopefully that will be OK after a few days rest. I have decided not to do the Trail Marathon Wales. I want to concentrate on short and medium distance road speed for the next few months and fell and trail races are a bit of a distraction from that.
Was that Richard? I saw him I think as we wandered past, not sure if he was quite in the right place when I saw him, could have been the angle though.
It's a good route, quite friendly, decent gear for the most part, feels fairly honest and not like it's going to try and trick you, if you see what I mean. Well worth a go, and would certainly not be a terrible choice for a first E2 - the thing which troubled me most was the calf pump! All that sport climbing seems to have messed with my ability to stand round for ages on little edges on slabs.
> 1/7 Biscuit
> 8/7 Biscuit
> 15/7 AJM
> 22/7 SeanKenny
> 29/7 Nomics4Sale
> 5/8 Nomics4Sale
> 12/8 Nomics4Sale
I can do the 19th if august if no one else is interested.
Also anyone about the pea or yorkshire this weekend for some sport? I fancy a change of pace from all the bouldering and bits of trad I have been doing.
Yes, Richard had a go at it. You might be right that he was not in the right place, there was some discussion back at the campsite about the correct line and most people thought he was probably making things hard for himself. Most people seem to go on the right hand side of the face to start, Rich was almost into the groove on the left.
I know what you mean about calf burn, I was suffering a bit too - and I wasn't even on an E2!
All sorted then
Not around this weekend but can you get to Yorkshire for an evening session? Fancy a go at Moughton or Panorama tomorrow evening??
I have plans for tomorrow already. Plus they are a bit far from me for after work sadly.
Panoramic looks to have some good 7a's to work.
Was at Moughton yesterday, looks like there are some good 7a's there too.
No worries re tomorrow. It's probably a bit too far for me too but I'm feeling a bit inspired now I've decided to give up on the 6c goal. Will see if I can persuade anyone else.
STG: Complete a climb at 6a (DONE), climb onsight 5+ on a range of styles and boulder at V1. Keep climbing 3 times a week. Start lead climbing on easy grades.
MTG: Climb at 6a+, lead on 5+ and boulder onsight at V1. Second climbing outside.
LTG: Start lead climbing outside (Vdiff / S).
VLTG: Lead climb VS
M - Rest with some yoga
T - Route climbing - climbed a crimpy overhang 5+ and vertical 5+. Finished off with a vertical 6a.
W - Rest with some yoga
T - Climbing, felt tired. Climbed a 5+ and failed on another 5+. Tried to climb some easy slabs with one hand to improve body position, felt hard work.
F - Rest with some yoga
S + S - Download festival
I'm happy I did a 6a, but I've seemed to be neglicating slabs and bouldering at the moment, which I hope to focus on next week.
I'm not entirely happy with my technique at the moment but I may take an improvers course or private coaching, so I don't get into bad habits early. Another thing I'm not happy with is, I think my time spent at the climbing wall could be more structured.
Next weeks plan will be to spend a session on slabs and dedicate a session to bouldering.
M - Routes session at the Reach - ended up rather a short session as had to dash off to work in the afternoon so didn't get much done, but good to get something done at least
T - After too many late nights and early mornings felt totally exhausted all day. Went for a run in the rain which was fun - 7.5km in 40mins
W - Nothing
T - Cycled to work (5.5miles) and back (~7 miles)
F - Nothing
S - Drove down to Portland for the day. Warmed up on Sod (or something like that?), then had a short play on the moves on Mindmeld. Put the clips in Want Out, which was probably the crux of the day, and resolved to work out the top section so I can climb and not clipstick the last bolt! Apologies to Cider Yellow for ultimate clipstick faff... Then think a combination of early morning and bad nutrition hit and felt a bit knackered, sick and very unpsyched. Had a couple of top rope goes on Want Out and called it a day.
S - Nothing - hurting a lot (neckache from trying to get top in on Want Out!)
Although Saturday's result does sound a bit negative, as I was hoping to get on the lead on WO, in retrospect I think I actually made quite a lot of good progress:
- Worked out clipping positions and draws needed for each clip
- Worked out different ways of doing a couple of the crux moves, so they've gone from feeling totally desperate, to not too bad (relatively speaking)
- Sorted out the section at the top, particularly working out what I need to do to get the knee bar in right so I have a chance of getting the jug over the roof - still reckon this'll be redpoint crux for me, but hopefully have more of a chance now!
Back down in a couple of weeks so hopefully be able to get on lead then - scary!
If it's getting frustrating it may be time for a change but don't give up.
I racked up failed on-sight attempt 14 on 7a last week. Every single one i have got 2nd go. This tells me 3 things.
1) I should be red pointing harder more than i am ( current top level 7b after 4 goes )
2) If i keep chipping away it'll come.
3) I am scared of falling so don't commit 100% on the onsight - that's been the key for me.
6c is 80/20 for onsighting, 6c+ is maybe 60/40 and 7a is 0/100.
Find what it is that is causing you to fail. Try and combat it through RP'ing or skill training and then come back refreshed and ready to attack.
Thanks as ever Dan - sounds as though you've got enough volunteers but if a week or two needs covering I'd be happy to do so.
Ali: No worries - I've (literally) been there and totally sympathise! :-)
Biscuit: Rubbish. Wishing you a speedy recovery - hopefully it'll just mean easing off for a short while.
Nomics: I onsight best when I'm not feeling too pressured about the outcome, I wonder if it will just happen if you focus on something else but keep trying 6c's whenever there's one that looks appealing?
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Up to V4.
Wedns - Castle. Good session working harder problems.
Thurs - Rest (I think?).
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. Quick RP of Figgy Dropwise after falling off trying to flash it on previous trip. One go on Nightmare Scenario but seemed to run out of day/energy very fast.
Sun - Cuttings. Finally got crux move on Nightmare Scenario.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Watching the rain.
Wedns - Cuttings in the afternoon.
Thurs - More rain. Gale force winds to add some variety.
Fri- Cuttings again. Back on project.
Sat - Ditto. Got a really good link basically through all of the hard climbing. It's really close...
Sun - Biscuit Factory. Short session, pretty achey.
Skills Nick, you gotta be pleased! Cider soak? Breathing method? One of the brean down ones? I guess picking one on the train line and at a sheltered crag will be the challenge.
Last couple of weeks for me:
Went to france for a week. Did many routes in the 6's, most on sight and clean. Ceuse for a day was good, but on my 7th day on, the arms just weren't up for the challenge.
Summary of the 7's
1x 7a tec arete onsight clean - pleased (minor crag).
1x 7a overhanging jug haul fail onsight (ceuse)
1x 7a+ tec face climb 2 tries and got in overlapping sections (ceuse)
1x 7b overhanging tufa route in 3 sections on first go, wasted for subsequnt efforts - Ubrieux
1x 7c shut down by crux so dogged it - Sisteron
I can confirm that 7a in france isn't a push over, however a better strategy would have given better results. On the plus side I climbed many excellent routes in the mid to high 6's with confidence and good form. Most resulting in big smiles at the end. So although I had hopes for a hard tick, I was happy with enjoying the whole week and getting on plenty.
Beside this, indoors a couple of times. Have a new hard route at the wall to conquer - The reds, which may take a couple of weeks.
Wanting to get outside again though.
I'll be around bristol area this coming weekend in the evening. Maybe see a climb or two then.
8a. the magic grade. very well done.
what now? the other magic grade is e5. do positron and then give me the beta ;)
if you decide you want to keep your hand in at sport i rekon liquid amber looks a pretty good project.
m: am: 4 mile trail run. pm: 6 mile trail run, conference in Dallas, fly to SAn Antonio, TX.
t: am: 4 mile trail run. pm: 8.25 miles. with 6 x 800m reps in at around 5 min miling.
w: am: 4 mile trail run. pm: 8 mile run at 7 min miling, 96F heat, awful conditions, really held in to hold woeful pace..
t: 10 mile trail run, awful heat
f: am: 7 mile trail run in Texas.
s: am: 5.1 miles steady run. pm: 9 miles, 8 miles at marathon pace felt OK
s: 8 miles early am.. attend wedding in NH..
STG: Pass 2 sets on the 4x4. (fail)
MTG: Pass 2 sets on the 4x4. (fail)
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(4). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Fat %: 10.2
Focus: PE (2/2)
Tue: Chee Dale (max 7a)
Wed: ARC. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2) -2 sets. Repeaters
Fri: ARC. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2) -2 sets.
Sun: ARC. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2) -2 sets.
Reasonably quiet week due to celebrating anniversary on Thursday & Saturday. Tried to add a push-up pull-up session Saturday day but whenever I do this with the boy around he jumps on my back during press-ups and hangs off my legs during pull-ups.
Was raining @ Chee Dale on Tuesday so top roped MHR again. Got it clean both times but didn't fancy the lead in the rain as the top was wet (bit of an excuse really).
The 4x4 sets went reasonably well. On Wednesday passed my first set but only managed 4,2,2,1 on the last set. On Friday I was soooooooo close to passing both sets. I completed the first set, all passes, and was on the last problem of the last rep. On the crux of the final problem you have feet on SoS, hands matched on a sloper and you have to dyno for a small crimp with your right. I had my hands matched, feet on smears, brain sent the command to make the move.............body responded with the old "I am so trashed I can barely hang this hold, there is no way I am doing that!". Sunday I was hung over and the entire training session was poor.
I was thinking of starting to increase volume in one session a week (tried this week adding the repeaters on wednesday) but I felt a slight twinge in right elbow last night so am putting that idea on hold.
Endurance phase next. I'll use it to try a harder ARC route (current one is too easy) & experiment with other exercises. So not a proper endurance phase, more a try it and see phase.
> If it's getting frustrating it may be time for a change but don't give up.
> I racked up failed on-sight attempt 14 on 7a last week. Every single one i have got 2nd go.
Man that must be frustrating. You're clearly so close to being solid at 7a.
I wonder if you'll start on sighting them when you care less or have other goals. 7a indoors has been a sticking point for me for half as long as I've been climbing. I think I always got into "last resort" mode and threw myself at a hard move expecting to fall, really self fulfilling failure.
I hate to encourage physical training when the answer to blocks like this probably lies in technique... But I've found myself climbing indoor 7as so differently after recent circuits. I'm climbing all the moves as if I've got plenty left in the tank, rather than "racing against the pump clock" as I always did.
That's a nice bit of dribble, hope some of it might be relevant to you!
how was download?
I heard it was a bit of a wash out? I wanted to go but did not get chance in the end.
Best festival line up I have seen in years.
I'm not entirely sure why I keep failing. I think it's a combination of not reading the route properly or quickly enough and a lack of power endurance. RPing seems like a good way to go to address both of these.
And, yes, yellow, there's definitely a bit of self imposed onsight pressure going on! I think if I move the focus to RPing and then "casually saunter" over to a nice looking 6c, maybe I'll have more success!! Sounds like you're close to getting your project.. Next weekend?? No pressure ;-)
What Daniel says here:
Succinctly echoes what my experience was. I spent what felt like ages stuck trying to onsight my first 7a. While I was nowhere near as businesslike and systematic about it as you, biscuit (and I have no doubt that your dedication, although frustrating at the moment, is making you a better climber long term) it felt like I was blowing onsight after onsight for silly reasons when I should have been able to do them.
In retrospect I wanted it far too much - I would get to the crux of a route where I was a move away from victory, and there was all this sick-making pressure to ONSIGHT MY FIRST 7A and I'd invariably do something stupid or miss a hold and pump out.
I think what broke the vicious cycle was stepping back a bit, going away and doing other stuff (lots of onsighting long 6cs in the Tarn, as it happens) and then when I went back to trying them, being able to temporarily forget I was launching myself on yet another potential-hardest-ever-onsight, and just treat it like a route a couple of grades lower, where I was still focussed but not over-psyched for it.
Sorry that is a ramble, hope you are able to take something useful away from that. Basically I think you are overdue a breakthrough when suddenly you start romping up 7as for breakfast. Keep the faith.
Haha, yes, I am looking forward to going back to falling off E1s so you might be waiting a while...
Steady on! let's not get carried away! :-)
Force yourself to take at least 3 practice falls on each climbing session whether indoors or outdoors and you will soon improve!
Fancying some trad are we Nick ;)
That message ended too early, should have said that you might have to leave the cuttings for it!
Nick you absolute beast. Great effort. Don't suppose Cider Soak is on your to do list? Think that may be one of my summer projects.
S- Saturday afternoon in Giggleswick South. Did a couple of 6a's and went for a walk up to Violent New Breed. Looks crazy - easy to see why Ondra wasn't too keen.
S- Drove over to St Bees to follow the dry weather. Spent the day at St Bees South. Thought it was really good, although we pretty much did a lot of the climbs, leaving a couple of left for a return visit, (looked like some of the routes had shed a couple of holds - wouldn't surprise me if this was common on this rock)
M- Board session at Byron's. 1.5hours?
T- 10K run.
W- Press-ups/Sit-ups and plank.
S- Dinbren and Llany. Climbed between the damp patches. Pulled on the rock 6times, 2 laps on a 6b, a 6c, 2 7a's and a 7a+. Nice easy day, but good to be outside. Kept wishing that I was bouldering though. Need to do some sport with a psyched person to push me a little I think.
Whoever said next step E5, let me tell you now that E5 will feel a doddle after that, I'm looking forward to hearing about you turning that sport power and stamina into some seriously hard trad routes.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Just to let you know I'm going to take two weeks off Fit Club, I'm going through a particularly intensive period of exams at the moment so I'm going to concentrate on revision for now and look forward to eight weeks of climbing after the end of next week.
Good luck in your exams. I have my own too these couple of weeks
See you soon
It was a good festival, I only went there to see Black Sabbath, who were great (considering!). The weather wasn't too bad, Sunday was boiling! The lineup was seriously good, I rarely go to festivals but I couldn't miss out on this one!
I am finding it strangely not too stressful. I want the 7a onsight so there is that pressure but there are so mnay decent 7a's to try here that i am in no danger of running out of them in my attempts. So i am fairly philosophical about it.
Each one has been a mistake that was obvious when i re did it or lack of commitment. SO yes i am becoming a better climber as i learn from each mistake - at least that's what i tell myself.
The closest i've come was grabbing the chains instead of clipping them as i was about 4 metres above the last bolt and totally pumped solid. I laughed it off at the time but that's the one i really regret.
On the good news front i saw the physio yesterday and should be back in action soon after some very painful massage and have lots of stretching to do. It may be a couple of weeks but i am off to the UK for 10 days or so then anyway so it may turn into a longer break. It didn't give me any grief at work today, though i climbed nothing harder than a 5 and didn't belay anyone.
I'm one of the ones that were absent last week (spent the week in the north west of scotland), so I'll catch up now:
t: cycling 5.53 km, 5.71 km
t: cycling 5.55 km, 6.74 km (new PB for my alternative route home)
s: drove from Bradford to Elphin, an endurance test of sorts
s: walking ~30 km - Suilvan from Elphin
m: walking 15.20 km - Quinag summits
t: walking 4.43 km - Stac Pollaidh plus some scrambling and my first roped climb of the year!
w: walking 18.40 km - Conival and Ben More Assynt from Inchnadamph
t: walking 21.98 km - Cape Wrath to Blairmore via Sandwood Bay
f: walking 12.27 km - Ben Mor Coigach and Sgurr an Fhidhleir
s: drove to Edinburgh
s: drove to Bradford
The top left hand corner of Scotland is a beautiful place and I'm keen to get back up there soon!
3 days cycling commute plus
Mon: Ilkley Trail Race (6.9miles) 55.13. A little lethargic on way out, but had a great descent and fast second half.
Tue: Let Them Eat Cake cyclosportive, c105k around Cheshire.
Wed: Otley Chevin Fell Race (3miles, 1000ft) 23.15ish. Good run, slightly slower than last year but underfoot conditions heavier. Fast descent, making about 6 places on way down.
Thu: Easy 9k run
Fri: Easy 12k run
Sun: Bradford Millenium Way Relay (8.5m, 1200ft) 1.24ish. Reasonable run, gut issues early on but finished very strongly. Short swim in afternoon.
Good week, though my legs felt a lot of racing. I'm happy with BMW run, as I apparently managed to make my partner work on the ascents, and he's normally a lot quicker than me, so maybe training is working!
Unlikley to get a huge amount of training in this week, especially as the weekend is all about family stuff, but am hoping to try and get a decent hard effort in on the bike and see how things might go at Ripon Tri next month.
monday - Moelwyns - Clipiau - led all 3 pitches of Africa Rib then 2nd Asahel (VS eagle finish) - found the 2nd VS bit hard - realised I havent even 2nd any VSs this year (ans not many last year)- it showed
Tuesday - rain forecast so had a few hours wandering and exploring LLanberis mines. Will definately be back for some climbing
weds - Holyhead mountain - decided to just 2nd harder stuff HSx1 and VS x3. Found that i ran out of steam 3/4 of the way up on every climb. Need to get used to harder stuff
Thurs - gave up on wet Wales and headed home. Stopped of at LLandulas for a nice bike ride around the bay
Fri - rest
Sat - 40 min run. Squats & press ups
sun - 32 min run - found a flatter route - felt easier! press ups & squats
need to focus on losing weight again - this will definitely help with running out of steam!
Haven't been keeping track to much lately so apologies for no report for several weeks.
Long tern goal achieved 2 weeks ago completing the Jura Fell Race. Time was tediously slow due to nearly 30 degree heat! Even got beaten by Mick Fowler! But completed course with no injury apart from sunburn. Three days later had a great run at a local 10k, with a time of 48.33 having an easy recovery jog really.
Having a bit of a rest from formal training just now and hoping to get some very long mountain runs in over the summer.
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