/ Securing a static rope to attach belay karabiner
Have a look at http://www.mountain-trips.co.uk/setting_up_sandstone_climbs.html - they also run a one hour course on setting up on S.Sandstone according to the website.
I don't think I understood a word of that...
Sorry Oceanrower, I got it perfectly from that paragraph.
Maybe I was thinking it for trad with the assumption of anchors needing to be connected to through karabiners. I was quite surprised at what I saw on that link. The pictures of the anchors and the cable were certainly alien to me.
It just sounds like another reason to stay in up't narth!
Yes, you are right - the website shows the bolts at Bowles, not Harrisons, which is normally two different size bolts as you describe.
In that case instead of clove hitching to a crab in the bolt, thread the static rigging rope through the front bolt and make a bowline with double stopper.
Locals also only tend to use one bolt and not two as shown on that web site. Always check the bolt is solid and make sure the bowline is tied properly. Oh, and don't lower off on SS - top out, untie and walk off to save the rock.
<queue discussion re merits of bowline>
Less of a sod to undo when it has caught a fall is the reason I use one to tie in. Were I a few stone lighter I would use a fig 8.
Sorry but I can't work out from this thread whether or not you get why this is necessary.
So, just in case it isn't clear to anyone It's to ensure that "moving or stretching ropes do not come into contact with the rock" as they will slice straight through where they do.
The static rope allows you to position your belay krab ( with a little thought) so as to ensure that this can't happen in the event of a fall.
As Neil Williams said, bowline is less of a sod to undo if fallen on or climbed on tight rope hence saves time - bowline = more climbs per day <popcorn moment>
Other thing is fo8 would need exact positioning of first knot for rethreading so krab (on a fo8 on the bight!) hangs over edge correctly. Also, depending on the length of your rigging rope, you may be rethreading 3m+ - real faff - especially when you discover it all needs adjusting by a few inches to get the krab in the correct position.
Bowline positioning is simple to measure out accurately and adjusts easily if needed.
Search the forums for lots of discussions / opinions / rants comparing the bowline and fo8.
Yes but it doesn't do the job. What you'd be doing is, in essence, is getting someone else to tie the knots for you in advance & thereby losing the ability to adjust the length.
Unless you're intending to buy a large selection of slings of different lengths your belay krab is going to always be too low, or much worse too high. The latter will mean there'll be a lot of routes you simply can't do. The problem here is that you may well have to set the belay (possibly after queuing for the route) before this becomes clear.
In addition if tying a figure of 8 knot (which is all that's needed) isn't something you're 100% happy I would strongly suggest seeking some instruction before venturing onto rock.
I'm just trying to get as much practical info as possible from more experienced climbers, I believe this is what this section of the forum is about.
The sling solution was simply suggested by someone as an alternative - I was a little sceptical when I heard it so, before I go and use a solution I'm unsure about, I prefer to get some more advice.
I'm old enough and experienced enough in life, and extreme sports, to know that a lack of preparation, information and respect for the challenge only leads to unnecessary risks and dangers. And I'm certainly not so arrogant as to think I know it all and take risks with both my life and somebody elses. So there was really no need to add that patronising comment at the end of your thread.
Larksfoot into the bolt and, if really necessary, an overhand to get it just right.
Elsewhere on the site
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
Every so often you meet someone in climbing that makes you take a step back. Someone with a fire in their eye, passion in... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more