/ NEWS: Malham Action - New 8c and More

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UKC News - on 11 Jun 2012
Neil Mawson, 4 kbNeil Mawson has climbed a new 8c link-up at Malham, climbing Bat Route (8c) in to Rainshadow (9a). The new link is called "Raining Bats and Dogs". Neil estimates the difficulty at 8c.

Matt Pickles has extended Unjustified, and Jacob Cook has repeated Totally Free II.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67182

Daniel Heath - on 11 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:

I love the effort that goes in to high end route names.
Land and Sky Media - on 11 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News: Nice one Mawson! Well done mate
James Oswald - on 11 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Jacob!
jacobjlloyd - on 11 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News: Flipping heck Jacob, thats a good effort!
Calder - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Genuine questions:

How can 8c + 9a = 8c? Is he suggesting Rainshadow is not 9a?

And about that other link - Overjustified, is 7a+ not a scramble after 8b+/8c? If so I'm struggling to see the point in that one.
Eagle River - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Calder:

Bat route starts up a 7b whereas Rainshadow starts up an 8a and I believe by traversing from bat route into the top of rainshadow you miss out the crux of rainshadow.
Calder - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

Ah. So it's a link from a link. Bloody complicated this sport climbing lark, isn't it?!
Eagle River - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Calder:

Ha! Quite.

If in doubt (about a high grade for a route) look if Adam Ondra has done it as he's done quite a few and is pretty straight-forward with his opinions on grades. He thought Rainshadow was 9a.
Calder - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Eagle River: Cool, ta.
Tyler - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Calder:

> Ah. So it's a link from a link.

Neither Bat Route nor Rainshadow are links themselves, they are straight up lines (I guess the confusion is that the first parts of both of these routes are climbed as routes in their own right)

shark - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Calder: Calder:>
> And about that other link - Overjustified, is 7a+ not a scramble after 8b+/8c? If so I'm struggling to see the point in that one.


Whilst most ascents have clipped the belay at least one has involved grabbing it so the belay can't have been at an obvious or at least easily clippable finishing point which isn't ideal. Also going to the top is always best if the quality of the rock is good enough. Whilst 7a+ might be significantly easier by comparison but it is still a climb not a scramble. Zippy did this top bit by linking in from the Groove I think. He has also linked GBH into Baboo. BTW he turned 50 last week.
Furanco C - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Go Jacob!
Adam Lincoln - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Juranco C:

Sam Whit also repeated Bat route today.
Tyler - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Hooray for Sam, that's well deserved. Interesting that things must have dried back since the weekend.
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Adam Lincoln - on 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Tyler:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
>
> Hooray for Sam, that's well deserved. Interesting that things must have dried back since the weekend.


When 8c isn't that hard any more, and 8b+ is approaching a rest.

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