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Yesterday I got my third F6B+ (er, need I say Font system) (minimum, as the grading is F6B+ to 7A for the particular colour of the route).
Well, I have been wondering: most of the other boulderers that I see are younger than me (at near 42), often more than two decades younger. They have a lot of scope for improvement. What about me, thinking along the lines of physical limitations as one ages (hate to look that beast in the face, but what the hell, usually better old than dead).
Anyone else start late? How far have you gone?
Well, I have been wondering: most of the other boulderers that I see are younger than me (at near 42), often more than two decades younger. They have a lot of scope for improvement. What about me, thinking along the lines of physical limitations as one ages (hate to look that beast in the face, but what the hell, usually better old than dead).
Anyone else start late? How far have you gone?
In reply to Flinticus:
at your extreme age i guess youd best just pack it all in and pick up the pipe and slippers.start ringing round the residential hopes you may just get a cancellation .good luck old timer..
at your extreme age i guess youd best just pack it all in and pick up the pipe and slippers.start ringing round the residential hopes you may just get a cancellation .good luck old timer..
In reply to Flinticus:
Can I have your bed when you pop it?
Can I have your bed when you pop it?
> Yesterday I got my third F6B+ (er, need I say Font system) (minimum, as the grading is F6B+ to 7A for the particular colour of the route).
That's nowhere near the limit for a 42 year old.
> Well, I have been wondering: most of the other boulderers that I see are younger than me (at near 42), often more than two decades younger.
Not my experience of boulderers.
It sounds like a visit to another venue could help - to see vets climbing harder (though if it's nice weather you may not see them indoors). Well done on getting your 3rd F6B+.
In reply to Flinticus:
>"What can I expect?"
To cry like a baby on a Dumby highball. Indoor grades might count for something somewhere but not around here...
>"What can I expect?"
To cry like a baby on a Dumby highball. Indoor grades might count for something somewhere but not around here...
In reply to Flinticus:
Are I see indoor grades
even this bumbley can see that V0 on my wall doesn't quite stretch to the English 5a? that it should....
Are I see indoor grades
even this bumbley can see that V0 on my wall doesn't quite stretch to the English 5a? that it should....
In reply to markez:
Thanks. Sometimes it seems I'm the oldest there! Most are kids or students in uni. My peer group seem to stick to the routes. Unfortunately / fortunately the venue is real close to home (less than 10mins on my bike) and whenever I get out of town its for hill walking / camping with my dog (bouldering just bores him & he don't get exercised: as a collie that's not an option). I did some outdoors along the Galloway coast & at Craignaw. He lies there and won't stop staring at me until I get down and take him for a walk. The guilt is too much to bear.
Thanks. Sometimes it seems I'm the oldest there! Most are kids or students in uni. My peer group seem to stick to the routes. Unfortunately / fortunately the venue is real close to home (less than 10mins on my bike) and whenever I get out of town its for hill walking / camping with my dog (bouldering just bores him & he don't get exercised: as a collie that's not an option). I did some outdoors along the Galloway coast & at Craignaw. He lies there and won't stop staring at me until I get down and take him for a walk. The guilt is too much to bear.
In reply to Flinticus:
Is this post still in English? It was about Bouldering to start with then mention of Font 6A etc.
PS I am 52 and not taking my shirt off any more.
Is this post still in English? It was about Bouldering to start with then mention of Font 6A etc.
PS I am 52 and not taking my shirt off any more.
In reply to Flinticus:
I am 62, about to retire, do the odd 7a /7a+ now but will be very unhappy if I do not do some of my 7b+ projects in the county by the end of the year and then continue doing 7bish blocs across the globe for the next year or so. Just need to work on technique and train power and strength well. So you should have many more good years to look forward to.
> Yesterday I got my third F6B+ (er, need I say Font system) (minimum, as the grading is F6B+ to 7A for the particular colour of the route).
>
> Well, I have been wondering: most of the other boulderers that I see are younger than me (at near 42), often more than two decades younger. They have a lot of scope for improvement. What about me, thinking along the lines of physical limitations as one ages (hate to look that beast in the face, but what the hell, usually better old than dead).
>
> Anyone else start late? How far have you gone?
>
> Well, I have been wondering: most of the other boulderers that I see are younger than me (at near 42), often more than two decades younger. They have a lot of scope for improvement. What about me, thinking along the lines of physical limitations as one ages (hate to look that beast in the face, but what the hell, usually better old than dead).
>
> Anyone else start late? How far have you gone?
I am 62, about to retire, do the odd 7a /7a+ now but will be very unhappy if I do not do some of my 7b+ projects in the county by the end of the year and then continue doing 7bish blocs across the globe for the next year or so. Just need to work on technique and train power and strength well. So you should have many more good years to look forward to.
In reply to is2:
Would you mind sharing that training regime? I seen to be stuck at 7A and I've got 8 Years on you.
Would you mind sharing that training regime? I seen to be stuck at 7A and I've got 8 Years on you.
In reply to i.munro: Generally try to do blocks of three weeks strength and power followed by endurance for two weeks at this time of year ready for summer hols. Have an excellent board in the garage, access to three good boulder walls, and big lead wall at Sunderland plus 20m traversing bridge which is very fingery 5mins from the house. Trying to get more structure for retirement and here is start of plan up to August.
Six week cycle.
Goal redpoint 7c projects August 2012
Weakest links:
• Power from legs in initiating dynamic movement
• Contact grip strength upon latching holds
• Endurance.
Technique issues.
• Flow and moving efficiently between holds.
• Mental strategies fear of failure / falling
• Control and resting
Warm up……..Climb before strength training.. 3 weeks strength and power, 2 weeks anaerobic endurance, 1 week rest
Week 1. Strength and power.
Mon: Gym legs and core + finger rolls: Review and evaluation:
Good session for legs and core finger tweak stopped full value on rolls.
Tues: Eldon Wall pyramid session on the wave
Wed: Gym legs and core
Thurs: Board locks and catches
Fri: Rest
Sat: Rest
Sun: Wall or crag moving not pulling.
I find it hard to plan too far ahead so do the detail for the next week each Saturday..... biggest improvement for me has been coaching from Micky my son that has me spending a lot of time working movement technique rather than trying to pull harder. Plus clip drop sessions with big falls at wall.
Six week cycle.
Goal redpoint 7c projects August 2012
Weakest links:
• Power from legs in initiating dynamic movement
• Contact grip strength upon latching holds
• Endurance.
Technique issues.
• Flow and moving efficiently between holds.
• Mental strategies fear of failure / falling
• Control and resting
Warm up……..Climb before strength training.. 3 weeks strength and power, 2 weeks anaerobic endurance, 1 week rest
Week 1. Strength and power.
Mon: Gym legs and core + finger rolls: Review and evaluation:
Good session for legs and core finger tweak stopped full value on rolls.
Tues: Eldon Wall pyramid session on the wave
Wed: Gym legs and core
Thurs: Board locks and catches
Fri: Rest
Sat: Rest
Sun: Wall or crag moving not pulling.
I find it hard to plan too far ahead so do the detail for the next week each Saturday..... biggest improvement for me has been coaching from Micky my son that has me spending a lot of time working movement technique rather than trying to pull harder. Plus clip drop sessions with big falls at wall.
In reply to i.munro: Sorry but the comment and plan is a bit misleading because I always do trad sport at this time of the year. However I use the same sort of cyclic plan in the winter for boulders.
In reply to Ava Adore:
I wish (then someone else could worry about the gas bill and factors fees and all I'd fret over would be the soft drinks running out in the fridge).
Though my query was specific to bouldering and not trad or any kind of roped climbing.
I wish (then someone else could worry about the gas bill and factors fees and all I'd fret over would be the soft drinks running out in the fridge).
Though my query was specific to bouldering and not trad or any kind of roped climbing.
In reply to is2:
Now you've got a good set up! Would love to have a climbing wall at home.
Would tree climbing help (near a big park & have thought of doing this: was an excellent tree climber when a kid with a big tree in the garden: me & my brothers were called monkeys by our friends)
Now you've got a good set up! Would love to have a climbing wall at home.
Would tree climbing help (near a big park & have thought of doing this: was an excellent tree climber when a kid with a big tree in the garden: me & my brothers were called monkeys by our friends)
In reply to Flinticus:
Physical limitation seem to me to be goverend by the thickness of the mat. As I have got older, I have bought thicker mats.
Physical limitation seem to me to be goverend by the thickness of the mat. As I have got older, I have bought thicker mats.
In reply to Flinticus: Young kids do bouldering as they are the computer generation and can't be bothered to walk far from the car. Greeat! It leaves those long trad mountain routes free for me!
In reply to Flinticus:
Jo Montchausse did his first font8a at 56 I believe. I don't think he started climbing until he was into his thirties too.
Jo Montchausse did his first font8a at 56 I believe. I don't think he started climbing until he was into his thirties too.
In reply to Flinticus:Try climbing wouldn't hurt, but it might not help loads, if you see what I mean?
In reply to is2:
Thanks for sharing that. Looks like I might be doing far too much climbing (albeit indoors thanks to the B^&*y weather)
> (In reply to i.munro) Sorry but the comment and plan is a bit misleading because I always do trad sport at this time of the year. However I use the same sort of cyclic plan in the winter for boulders.
Thanks for sharing that. Looks like I might be doing far too much climbing (albeit indoors thanks to the B^&*y weather)
In reply to i.munro:
This is seriously inspiring Kudos.
> (In reply to is2)
> Would you mind sharing that training regime? I seen to be stuck at 7A and I've got 8 Years on you.
> Would you mind sharing that training regime? I seen to be stuck at 7A and I've got 8 Years on you.
This is seriously inspiring Kudos.
Might be worth popping over to uk bouldering website too. They have some interesting articles on training.
I'm a year ahead. 43 and started in January. Have managed font 6's indoors. First trip to font coming in July. Can't wait. Hot into climbing when my 8 year old girl started. I think the key to it is go 3 times a week if you can and just enjoy it. I've learnt a lot from
Watching others climbing.
I'm a year ahead. 43 and started in January. Have managed font 6's indoors. First trip to font coming in July. Can't wait. Hot into climbing when my 8 year old girl started. I think the key to it is go 3 times a week if you can and just enjoy it. I've learnt a lot from
Watching others climbing.
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:
There's hope for me at 42 I can climb around 6b outside and I don't really pay attention to indoor grades but generally its higher than V3/V4 my personal goal is 7a then I think I can relax a little and it would hopefully open up a lot of new climbs in the Peak to me.
Remember youa re only as young as the woman you feel - Groucho Marx
There's hope for me at 42 I can climb around 6b outside and I don't really pay attention to indoor grades but generally its higher than V3/V4 my personal goal is 7a then I think I can relax a little and it would hopefully open up a lot of new climbs in the Peak to me.
Remember youa re only as young as the woman you feel - Groucho Marx
In reply to Flinticus:
Yeah, my own goal is F7a regularly. Seems more achievable after a good session yesterday! (These seem to come interspersed with bad days).
Yeah, my own goal is F7a regularly. Seems more achievable after a good session yesterday! (These seem to come interspersed with bad days).
In reply to fozmeister:
7a+ should be your goal, it's the 1st Dan of Japanese bouldering, Black Belt!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=264
Grasshopper
7a+ should be your goal, it's the 1st Dan of Japanese bouldering, Black Belt!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=264
Grasshopper
In reply to Timmd:
Tree climbing, not try climbing...
> (In reply to Flinticus)Try climbing wouldn't hurt, but it might not help loads, if you see what I mean?
Tree climbing, not try climbing...
In reply to Flinticus:
I'm 68 and have gone as far as Font.
I don't give a toss about the grade anymore and go to enjoy myself on circuits - which I do.
> How far have you gone?
I'm 68 and have gone as far as Font.
I don't give a toss about the grade anymore and go to enjoy myself on circuits - which I do.
In reply to bigbadsquare:
Well, I only started March / April 2011 so little over a year. Going to the wall for regular short sessions, probably averaging about 3 a week for an hour each time (some weeks less, if walking or holidays intrude, some weeks more). However I quickly bouldered up to V4 and progress has been creeping up incrementally since then (much better at crimping and more flexible: I think arm strength is still my weakness.
Well, I only started March / April 2011 so little over a year. Going to the wall for regular short sessions, probably averaging about 3 a week for an hour each time (some weeks less, if walking or holidays intrude, some weeks more). However I quickly bouldered up to V4 and progress has been creeping up incrementally since then (much better at crimping and more flexible: I think arm strength is still my weakness.
In reply to Flinticus:
Its been my experience that indoor grades rarely match outdoor and the walls I use generally mean I can do V5/ V6 however outdoor I rarely do much above V3 (6a to 6b) so be careful, rarely do holds on the inside have any resemblance to rock on the outside, it is good for training and technique practice. Keep it going and get outside more
Its been my experience that indoor grades rarely match outdoor and the walls I use generally mean I can do V5/ V6 however outdoor I rarely do much above V3 (6a to 6b) so be careful, rarely do holds on the inside have any resemblance to rock on the outside, it is good for training and technique practice. Keep it going and get outside more
In reply to fozmeister:
Oh hell, yes. Indoors I can do V2 and even the odd V3 but outdoors the most I've ever managed is V0!
Oh hell, yes. Indoors I can do V2 and even the odd V3 but outdoors the most I've ever managed is V0!
In reply to Flinticus: I have just started climbing again after a 15+ years hiatus. I am 35, have no idea what grade I boulder at (though did top-rope and E4 6a the other so know I can do 6a english moves).
I am getting really addicted to bouldering, the weird thing is that I am better than I used to be, yeah I have lost some of those fast-twitch muscle fibres but I am able to use my years of experience to move more fludily on the rock and to better analyse my body position.
When I was younger I was of the 'if brute force isn't working your not using enough of it' school but now I style up problems that my climbing buddies ten years my junior can't get up.
Just cruise on up those problems and keep training your contact strength (big hint, buy a Beastmaker 2000, they are insane).
Good luck.
PS - its good being older and have more cash clams to play with, shiny new kit is easier won than when you are a manky young un' worrying about mortgages and girls.
I am getting really addicted to bouldering, the weird thing is that I am better than I used to be, yeah I have lost some of those fast-twitch muscle fibres but I am able to use my years of experience to move more fludily on the rock and to better analyse my body position.
When I was younger I was of the 'if brute force isn't working your not using enough of it' school but now I style up problems that my climbing buddies ten years my junior can't get up.
Just cruise on up those problems and keep training your contact strength (big hint, buy a Beastmaker 2000, they are insane).
Good luck.
PS - its good being older and have more cash clams to play with, shiny new kit is easier won than when you are a manky young un' worrying about mortgages and girls.
In reply to fozmeister:
As I discovered playing around with the rocks on the Galloway coast (SW Soctland), some of which are detailed in the Stone Country 'Bouldering in Scotland' guide. Not just that, but areas of the rock were actually swarming with scuttling insects and there were webs & plants growing in most of the best holds, and no way was I using any of the cracks: these contained horrors for which we have no words.
As I discovered playing around with the rocks on the Galloway coast (SW Soctland), some of which are detailed in the Stone Country 'Bouldering in Scotland' guide. Not just that, but areas of the rock were actually swarming with scuttling insects and there were webs & plants growing in most of the best holds, and no way was I using any of the cracks: these contained horrors for which we have no words.
In reply to subseasniper:
Still worrying about mortgages and got a gas bill for 6 month period: £400+ !!! That and another bill (nr £400) plus holiday cottage rental mean I can't currently afford to replace my shoes which, after a year & a bit, are knackered!
Still worrying about mortgages and got a gas bill for 6 month period: £400+ !!! That and another bill (nr £400) plus holiday cottage rental mean I can't currently afford to replace my shoes which, after a year & a bit, are knackered!
In reply to Flinticus: rock beasties are horrible. Those little red spiders from mars scare me silly, what the hell are they that colour for?
I also found a dead slater (no idea what the proper name is) and it as the size of my thumb nail, and that was only half it's skeleton. Imagine that coming out of a crack and crawling along your hand.
ah, the never ending hunt for new kit, at least bouldering has a logical conclusion, there are only so many pads, chalk bags and shoes you can justify buying.
I also found a dead slater (no idea what the proper name is) and it as the size of my thumb nail, and that was only half it's skeleton. Imagine that coming out of a crack and crawling along your hand.
ah, the never ending hunt for new kit, at least bouldering has a logical conclusion, there are only so many pads, chalk bags and shoes you can justify buying.
In reply to Flinticus:
However I quickly bouldered up to V4 and progress has been creeping up incrementally since then (much better at crimping and more flexible: I think arm strength is still my weakness.
I would give up all my arm strength if I could cash it in for better technique, (or lesser) core tension, (or lesser still) finger strength. I think arm strength is a compensation for all of these.
I mention this because I've seen people focus on arm-strength, and it's easy to build, and breaks plateaus but I think it may affect technique adversely.
Well done on your progress. ( I'm off to the pull-up bar so I can impress any beginners at the wall next Tuesday )
However I quickly bouldered up to V4 and progress has been creeping up incrementally since then (much better at crimping and more flexible: I think arm strength is still my weakness.
I would give up all my arm strength if I could cash it in for better technique, (or lesser) core tension, (or lesser still) finger strength. I think arm strength is a compensation for all of these.
I mention this because I've seen people focus on arm-strength, and it's easy to build, and breaks plateaus but I think it may affect technique adversely.
Well done on your progress. ( I'm off to the pull-up bar so I can impress any beginners at the wall next Tuesday )
In reply to Trangia:
This is sound advice irrespective of if you're 62 or 22.
> (In reply to Flinticus)
> [...]
> I don't give a toss about the grade anymore and go to enjoy myself on circuits - which I do.
> [...]
> I don't give a toss about the grade anymore and go to enjoy myself on circuits - which I do.
This is sound advice irrespective of if you're 62 or 22.
In reply to Flinticus:
That you'll get out of it what you put into it. With experience you'll learn to dodge the injuries a bit better. With age the ones you do pick up will take longer to heal. All those landings will take their toll.
jk
> What can I expect?
That you'll get out of it what you put into it. With experience you'll learn to dodge the injuries a bit better. With age the ones you do pick up will take longer to heal. All those landings will take their toll.
jk
In reply to Flinticus:
Take a trip to font and meet a bleausard, there are men in the forest there that must be 70+ that are climbing well into the 7's (with only a door mat and a towel for protection)
Take a trip to font and meet a bleausard, there are men in the forest there that must be 70+ that are climbing well into the 7's (with only a door mat and a towel for protection)
In reply to Flinticus: get out climbing have fun thats the main thing, improving will happen in time just climb more and vary where you climb, 42 is not old at all no reason you couldn't get too 7c+ if you really wanted to. if you want to get strong for bouldering work your fingers get a beastmaker or train your weakness's in the climbing gym ideally on a system board
In reply to Flinticus: Streaky Desroy doing Jerry's roof at 50 years of age (this was a many many many years ago now...) burning his son off in the process...
vimeo.com/7271165
Enjoy!
vimeo.com/7271165
Enjoy!
In reply to Flinticus:
after 43 its goes downhill rapidly!
can still do some 7a`s at 49 but only ones ive allready done,I`m not sure if its entirely physical either, to be honest I cant be arsed to train anymore, so once your not fit enough to use other peoples woodys then the decline accelarates. Shit man, Ive managed to extend my teenage years in my late forties so just accept it for what it is and enjoy the days and the craic!
after 43 its goes downhill rapidly!
can still do some 7a`s at 49 but only ones ive allready done,I`m not sure if its entirely physical either, to be honest I cant be arsed to train anymore, so once your not fit enough to use other peoples woodys then the decline accelarates. Shit man, Ive managed to extend my teenage years in my late forties so just accept it for what it is and enjoy the days and the craic!
In reply to Flinticus:
Didn't start late, just returned after a total break from climbing/bouldering for six + years. To be honest I think I'm bouldering technically better now then just prior to going away from climbing to do other things. Seem to think about the 'problem' more and search for more technical/efficient ways to send it (the power diminishes with age I've found - well for me it has), seemed to have replaced power with patience, technical efficiency and attentive footwork. I'm the late side of 44, started climbing again in Jan of this year, already done harder boulder probs (grit) than when I last climbed in 2006. The break has done me good but also not being obsessed about numbers/grades has freed me to send harder problems than I thought was possible for me. Study Iyengar yoga - that keeps the body and mind 'young' . If you need a grade currently happy O/S'ing UK tech 5c/6a. Looking forward to many more years of progressive bouldering/climbing
Didn't start late, just returned after a total break from climbing/bouldering for six + years. To be honest I think I'm bouldering technically better now then just prior to going away from climbing to do other things. Seem to think about the 'problem' more and search for more technical/efficient ways to send it (the power diminishes with age I've found - well for me it has), seemed to have replaced power with patience, technical efficiency and attentive footwork. I'm the late side of 44, started climbing again in Jan of this year, already done harder boulder probs (grit) than when I last climbed in 2006. The break has done me good but also not being obsessed about numbers/grades has freed me to send harder problems than I thought was possible for me. Study Iyengar yoga - that keeps the body and mind 'young' . If you need a grade currently happy O/S'ing UK tech 5c/6a. Looking forward to many more years of progressive bouldering/climbing
In reply to Flinticus:I started climbing at 42, am nearly always the oldest at my local wall and boulder to 6c regularly and have ticked a couple of 7a's. I'm just about to hit 46 and feel stronger and fitter than any time in my life.
In reply to Flinticus:
Your age is only a number! While ever your feeling like an 18yo keep at it! Theres a guy at my local boulder centre and hes in his 60s and still going strong! Dont know when he started but fair play to him and yourself!
Your age is only a number! While ever your feeling like an 18yo keep at it! Theres a guy at my local boulder centre and hes in his 60s and still going strong! Dont know when he started but fair play to him and yourself!
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