/ Recommend an easy trad venue near Milton Keynes

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Piers on 13 Jun 2012
Hello,

Desperately trying to find a suitable trad crag to take beginners in the Milton Keynes areas. Happy to drive approx 1 hour from start point. I know the Peak District is only 2 hours north but my driver doesn't want to go too far. (Change drivers I hear you say!!)

So any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Piers.
victim of mathematics - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

There are no worthwhile crags of any sort (suitable for beginners or otherwise) within 1 hour's drive from Milton Keynes.

Markfield is the only place I can think of that even vaguely fits the bill, but it's:
a) Awful
b) Probably a bit banned I think
c) A terrible place to take beginners as it's awful
d) Awful
e) Falling apart and devoid of gear
f) Awful

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you really would need to drive to somewhere like Harborough or Birchen for what you're after.
GrahamD - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Peak District for beginners, I'm afraid.

You might make Avon a bit faster but its not so beginner friendly
mattrm - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

There's some crags around Leicester, but I'd imagine they're all pretty awful. I'd say it's the Peak District.

If the driver doesn't want to drive for that long, get them to drive faster. :D
Neil Williams - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Another vote for the Peaks.

Neil
Big Steve - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers: Markfield quarry isnt all that bad, but it is not somewhere where you will return too. There isnt that much there, and all routes are short. It is 1 hour from MK up the M1 though so fits the bill in that respect. There are other small crags in the Leicestershire area, some bouldering and some short trad so why not take a trip and look at all the crags in one afternoon. routes are all online, alhtough I dont remember the website of hand.
GrahamD - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Big Steve:

> routes are all online, alhtough I dont remember the website of hand.

Well, there isn't really an incentive to remember it in all honesty

The Ivanator - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Big Steve: Out of curiousity I just looked Markfield up and found it had a fair smattering of starred routes, including two 3* "classics", I found this photo of one of them and was left wondering who on earth suggested the 3* rating - how did this get left off the UK's worst 3* route thread a few months back?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=134956
Skyfall - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

If you want to have a good time and they remember it for the right reasons, go to the Peak.

On 2nd thoughts, perhaps not... grit, arghhh!
mattrm - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Yeah, Markfield Quarry looks ace as long as you want to put beginners off for life:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1186

I'm sure it's fine if you're local and wanting to climb in the evening, but I wouldn't actually drive an hour just to go there.
GrahamD - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:

The old Leicester guide (with all the stars) was written very tongue in cheek - even to the extent that Markfield was a higher quality venue than Froggatt !

Markfield probably doesn't merit any stars.
gizmo - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Sorry to echo everyone else's responses, but I've lived just outside of Milton Keynes for the past four years and I've yet to find a decent trad crag within an hours drive.
trivett - on 13 Jun 2012
http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/

and

http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/

There are some websites with Leicestershire crags... been to a few and frankly you would be best to drive the extra 50mins to Birchen. Craig Buddon is probably the nicest climbing, but certainly not a beginners venue. Beacon hill is good for a bit of easy bouldering in nice weather, as is Bradgate park. Hangingstone quarry is simply aweful; sharp and unpleasant climbing (in the easier grades at least). Outwoods crag is a great place to teach people how to abseil, not much more...

It has to be the peaks.... MK isn't a ideal place to be a climber... if you want to stay local, go biking instead maybe...
Neil Williams - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to trivett:

Or go to Big Rock or the Pinnacle and climb indoors...

Neil
victim of mathematics - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
> (In reply to Big Steve) Out of curiousity I just looked Markfield up and found it had a fair smattering of starred routes, including two 3* "classics", I found this photo of one of them and was left wondering who on earth suggested the 3* rating - how did this get left off the UK's worst 3* route thread a few months back?
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=134956

Shudder. I've been to Markfield (twice!) and never felt the inclination to go anywhere near that route. I'm on a stupid mission to climb all the 2+ starred routes up to VS in Britain, which will necessitate a return visit at some stage though. Unless it has the good grace to fall down (or somebody fills it in) first.
victim of mathematics - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> The old Leicester guide (with all the stars) was written very tongue in cheek - even to the extent that Markfield was a higher quality venue than Froggatt !
>
> Markfield probably doesn't merit any stars.

I'm fairly sure that it used a starmetres system to prove that Markfield was slightly better than Gardoms, but a fair way short of Froggatt. I don't have a copy to check, although I do like the starmetres idea and have cribbed it for my complex algorithm which tells me where I ought to go climbing based on the unclimbed starmetres:distance the crag is from my house ratio...

GrahamD - on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

You can tell its a long while since I bothered getting it off the book shelf :-)
Piers on 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Thanks for the responses guys. You all confirmed my fears! I shall try to convince a drive to the Peak as I want to go there too!

Ta.

Piers

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.