/ One for the Castle Naze Regulars

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
mmmhumous on 15 Jun 2012
I was playing on fifth horseman and icebreaker last night with a few friends . Between us, I think we managed to get up the top slab in pretty much everyway possible However, based on the BMC WG route descriptions, we're still non the wiser of exactly which way the 'official' routes go up the main slab We were also struggling to find a way up that felt both 5b and E1/E2.

How far right can you go on fifth horseman? i.e. is the pebble in for your right hand?

For Icebreaker which side of you should be pebble be?

-If using the pebble for your right hand, is the blunt arete and finger crack in for your left hand?
-If using it for left, is the small flared crack and ther blunt flake in for your right hand/foot?

Rampikino - on 15 Jun 2012
In reply to mmmhumous:

Good question.

From memory... I think for Icebreaker I used the pebble in right hand (though more like thumb and forefinger) and stepped through. But it didn't feel as hard as the E2 it got when it was still at that grade.
mmmhumous on 15 Jun 2012
In reply to Rampikino:

This was the hardest line on the slab that we found: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cKjelSWDbc&feature=youtu.be

I'm guessing this is the way you went for icebreaker?


Duncan Bourne - on 15 Jun 2012
In reply to mmmhumous:
Ah don't you just love eliminates.
I would say (from the video) that you should be further right for "Icebreaker" (away from the potential safety of the arete)
ads.ukclimbing.com
mmmhumous on 16 Jun 2012
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
> (In reply to mmmhumous)
> Ah don't you just love eliminates.

Yep, they're not the most obvious or distinct of lines. Lots of discussion in the pub afterwards.

> I would say (from the video) that you should be further right for "Icebreaker" (away from the potential safety of the arete)

The hardest and boldest way up we found, was esentially what's shown in the vid, (but staying within a foot of the pebble ie eliminating the sidepull and small ledge), but this felt far too much like an eliminate problem than an actual route.

To my mind the, there were three ways up the wall and slab, left to right:

1. staying between the sharp and blunt aretes (based on the UKC and BMC route descriptions I think this is probably the correct line for Fifth Horseman)..... HVS 5a felt right for this.

2. The route as climbed in the video, which I'd grade at VS-E1 and 4c to 5b (dependant on height/ape index and whether or not you use tricams in the pockets - https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.454145779970.61873.518064970&type=3#!/photo.php?fbid=4...

3. Using the Pebble and the blunt flake, which felt around 4c. Adjective grade wise, with tricams on the slab (or a side runner in V-corner) Severve feels about right, without, maybe VS?

At least it's marginally more sensible than Windgather..

"am I off route?"
"yep"
"you're not looking"
"if you're asking, you're off route"

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.