/ Micro wires
IMPs supplemented with a few of the DMM brass offsets works for me.
The BD micro stoppers are great, but are very expensive (over £80 for a set, last I looked). DMM imps are a very good alternative, and are actually a little stronger than the BD nuts in the smallest sizes, and are cheaper. I've only use the brass offsets a couple of times, so can't judge them as well as the others, but they seem to have a place too.
If I was buying micros now, I would buy a set of IMPS.
If IMPS had been available when i bought my microstoppers i think I'd have got IMPs instead. I also agree that DMM brass offsets can be useful too.
dmm IMPS are very very good. Seem to slot in everywhere. Get them. I lobbed on one the other week (equalised with a peg) and it held perfectly.
I've got a set of the dmm offsets and the medium to large sizes are suprisingly strong if they're in a good placement.
I had a drunken night with some Belgian climbers in a Fontainbleu campsite years ago and we were comparing bolts to trade gear. The consensus was that big nuts were "stoppers" and the micro wires were "slowers"
Well thats that sorted out then :->
I have the BD Micro Stoppers and they are very good and easy to place
- they are expensive
- I only really trust the 2 largest ones.
- I hardly ever place them
- well made and seem to always fit very snug
- When I can place them and nothing else is available they are worth all the money (got me up at least 1 route I would not have taken on as the crux would have been unprotected).
- take up almost no space on your rack
+1 for the IMPS. I haven't used any other small wires to compare them against, but I find them very easy to place, and took about half a dozen falls on a size three the other week and it held. It got retired afterwards as the wire was a bit frayed where it's soldered into the brass, but that may well have been down to the abuse required to get it out... apparently it was rather well seated by the time I'd finished with it!
Nice one! A set of IMPs it is then. Cheers for the replies.
I wouldn't say peenuts are pointless, they are great in peg scars and the strength difference is irrelevant if the imps/brass offsets fall out ;-)
My microwire krab is a full set of micro-wallnuts 0-0.75 with a second 0.5, a set of BD microstoppers and a couple of peenuts (possibly 2 and 4).
Microwires are much more shape specific than larger nuts so you can never have too bigger range of them!
The peg took pretty much all the weight assuming that you are referring to the strawberry woods indecent, there was still some slack on the rope with the wires when the rope clipped to the peg came tight.
stronger than alu micros,no big swagimg to get in the way,and they grip like sh*t to a blanket
whats not to like....?
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