/ NEWS: New El Cap Speed Record for Honnold and Florine

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UKC News - on 18 Jun 2012
Alex Honnold following Hans Florine on their speed ascent of The Nose. Alex has loops of rope over his shoulder., 3 kbAlex Honnold and Hans Florine have broken the speed record on El Capitan's 'The Nose'. The pair set out very early on the morning of the 17th of June to be able to climb the route in the shade, as the forecast was for very high temperatures.

Less than two and a half hours later they were stood on the top of the world's most iconic rock face.

Their new record is 2:23:46, breaking the previous record from Sean Leary and Dean Potter by around 13 minutes.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67199

In reply to UKC News: Still, what've they done on Stanage...
JLS on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Seems a shame to make such an early start and still only manage to get one route in. Did they need to get back for work or something? Surely that's not the only route worth doing at the crag?
TheDrunkenBakers - on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News: aye, and don't forget that classic number 36 (purple) at my local climbing wall. I think its a 6b+. He'd struggle with that.
In reply to UKC News:

Astounding effort, brilliant guys.

Out of interest, does anyone know roughly how much aid they use in a typical speed ascent?


Chris
fhuaran - on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News: Steck must be feeling a bit gutted/inferior - Oxygen-free Everest ascent or not! What was his and Honnold's best Nose time again?
psychomansam - on 18 Jun 2012
Yes. That tragic feeling of being not the best in the world at something.
Franco Cookson on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to psychomansam: Do you never feel that?
Enty - on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Ok - so as this thread has already started in a classic UKC negative style I'll add my tuppence worth.

I hate Nose speed records because when someone asks you how long it took you to climb The Nose and you say "3 and a half days"................some clever tw*t always replies with........

;-)

E
pffft - on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: Chris, watch the film "race for the nose". (on the latest Reel Rock I think.)

Basically anything goes, pulling on stuck gear, bolts etc. Still place minimal actual gear though.
royal - on 18 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Great pictures in that article. I love the one of the great roof.
royal - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:
What does 'short fixed' mean? some kind of belay??
Styx - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to royal:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> What does 'short fixed' mean? some kind of belay??

It's a technique used whilst simul-climbing, the leader pulls up a ton of rope and ties it off at a belay and climbs on, either using a self belay device (e.g. silent partner) or effectively solo's with a long tether whilst the second jugs the line to the fixed belay.
royal - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Nice one, thanks.
johncoxmysteriously - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Interesting Honnold is going second in that picture. I thought the technique was for one climber to lead the whole way and that HF tended to take the seconding/rope management role. AH was certainly leading some of the way. Do they swop over then, I wonder? You'd think it would waste time.

jcm
jon on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

As I understand John, HF led the first half and AH the second. Florine said afterwards that as AH had started after him and finished before him, AH had actually climbed the Nose in just over 2:15!
royal - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:
So is this Alex Honnold 'just chilling with mates at the crag' after his Triple mission?
henwardian - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News: Isn't there a video somewhere of Dean Potter at the end of a speed ascent and the camera guy says something like "do you think Hans will be back to try and get the record again" and Dean says something like "I don't give a f*** about Hans, want me to break your camera?"....
...Or did I just totally imagine that. I am so sure I saw it but I can't find it anywhere... difficult thing to search for though.

Oh, and rock on UKC, I laughed reading this thread!
Daniel Heath - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to Styx:

I can barely get my head around that, but it sounds crazy!

thanks for explaining
Rob15 - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to henwardian: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L35qBS7XqvI this one perchance?

Not very sporting is it? Just another reason to dislike dean potter
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Adam_42 - on 19 Jun 2012
henwardian - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to Rob15:
> (In reply to henwardian) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L35qBS7XqvI this one perchance?
>
> Not very sporting is it? Just another reason to dislike dean potter

Haha, yeah, thats the one. Other than that its an epic video, makes me think I should have found out what it was all about and gone to check it out :D

Tbh, I laugh at speed ascents of the nose in the same way as I laugh at the queue of people on everest. Both are kind of a facet of the sport that would turn me off it if I couldn't see the funny side (arguably pretty macabre humor when it comes to everest).
Oh, except that one day I might actually climb the nose at a sedate velocity :)
Scarab - on 20 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC News:

HAHAHAHA!

In your face DP, guys you have to see the reel rock tour cover of this, the ecord has been going back and forth btw Dean Potter and Hans Florine.
Kemics - on 22 Jun 2012
In reply to henwardian:
> (In reply to Rob15)
> [...]
>

> Tbh, I laugh at speed ascents of the nose in the same way as I laugh at the queue of people on everest.

whhhaaa! they are totally different things. One is people at the very highest level of climbing competing with each other but also battling the limits of the human body in a dangerous setting....and the other is climbing the nose :P

henwardian - on 23 Jun 2012
In reply to Kemics:
> whhhaaa! they are totally different things. One is people at the very highest level of climbing competing with each other but also battling the limits of the human body in a dangerous setting....and the other is climbing the nose :P

Yeah, I know, I didn't mean they were the same thing, just that they both go in the bag of things that are, well, not my bag... They are part of the same sport (broadly speaking).



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