/ Petzl Reverso 4 or ATC Guide?

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CurlyStevo - on 19 Jun 2012
Hi,
Which of these plates is better? primary use is on 8 - 8.5mm ropes when I will want to use autobloc mode (as well as for lead belaying when not leading), belaying 1 or 2 seconds. I realise there is an issue that these devices are not hands off when belaying two seconds.

Reviews I have read suggest the Reverso 4 is better on skinny ropes, however petzl only rate the device to 8.5mm ropes when belaying two seconds in autobloc mode and my ropes are currently 8mm (I realise with skinny ropes you do sacrafice some safety here). Is this just petzl covering there back / BD not supplying info? Is the ATC guide actually better in this regard?

Thanks,
Stevo
mrchewy - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo: Just bought the Reverso 4 as I have 8mm ropes - the few people I asked all recommended it over the ATC Guide. Wasn't too bothered about bringing two seconds up initially but from time to time it may be convenient - I'm starting to think that 8.5mm would have made more sense then. For me, that would be a rare thing tho and as such, it wasn't a deal breaker with the Reverso. I can't imagine the ATC to be any different/better in this regard but someone else may know for sure.

Maybe it's the price to be paid for owning 8mm ropes...
Al Randall on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to mrchewy: I have 7.5 skinny twins and my Reverso 3 is fine with them.

Al
Styx - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

I too use the Reverso 3, it handles skinny ropes much better whilst the ATC is better with chunky ropes in my experience.
In reply to CurlyStevo: Have the Reverso 3 and the older Guide. The Reverso 3 wore to a sharpish edge relatively quickly. Don't know if the 4 has addressed that. My Guide is much older and more used and still works great.

Overall of the two versions I have the Guide is better, if heavier.
torquil on 19 Jun 2012
Reverso 3 works ok for me abseiling on 6mm (when not a lot else does) and the jaws on the Reverso 4 looks identical so I would have thought it would be ok on 8mm reversed.

But then again petzl must have had a reason for not rating down to 8mm...not sure what the testing is for that.

cliff shasby - on 19 Jun 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo: i have reverso 3 and 4 and guide...i tend to carry the 4 coz its light
they all handle 8mm ropes no probs(i climb mostly on skinny's

but without doubt the guide is less sticky and quicker to pay out etc,but heavy,this ive found with all ropes 8/9/10,wet/dry/frozen..
i keep thinking im gonna go back to the guide full time because of this..
CurlyStevo - on 20 Jun 2012
In reply to cliff shasby:
Petzl rate the reverso down to 8.1mm for half ropes apart from belaying 2 seconds at once - which they only rate the device down to 8.5mm.

It's not clear why this is. It could be that petzl are covering their backs and generaly think its not safe on ropes skinnier than this, or it could be that in the case where one second is hanging on the rope it's hard to get enough friction for the other second on thinner ropes (especially when new I'm guessing).

It sounds like the reverso is grabbier than the ATC Guide so I imagine the same issue could hold on the guide but BD just haven't highlighted this and the reverso would be better for my uses. However on papaer it seems like I should get the guide.

My current ropes are 8mm but they are quite old and getting furry so I doubt it would matter anyway. I think I am going to replace them with 8.5mm ropes next.
CurlyStevo - on 20 Jun 2012
In reply to torquil:
Has anyone used the revserso 4 / ATC Guide in autobloc mode on 8mm (or less) ropes?

Also what is the guide like for abbing on 8mm ropes? My ATC XP which has pretty much identical jaws is a bit too slick on new 8mm ropes when abbing IMO.
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> Also what is the guide like for abbing on 8mm ropes?

Used my guide loads with icelines without even thinking about it, but I always use a shunt or a prussik. I think icelines are 8mm or similar.

To be honest I think you are unlikely to notice the difference between 8mm and 8.5 mm ropes with either of them. I've used both with all sorts of different ropes, including lots of ice climbing with wet or snowy ropes with no problems. They also both work well belaying on single 9mms.

By far and away for me the biggest difference for me is how quick the Reverso wore. I will need to throw mine away soonish I think. The original Reverso had the same sharpening problem. Maybe they've solved it with the 4?

SFM - on 20 Jun 2012
In reply to TobyA:

Perhaps a crafty design feature by Petzl....wears out just in time for the next versions release ;O)
cliff shasby - on 20 Jun 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to torquil)
> Has anyone used the revserso 4 / ATC Guide in autobloc mode on 8mm (or less) ropes?
>
> Also what is the guide like for abbing on 8mm ropes? My ATC XP which has pretty much identical jaws is a bit too slick on new 8mm ropes when abbing IMO.

forgot to mention,i have no worries abbing with either,with the grooves/teeth,whatever you call them,the more the rope is pulled down the more the device grips.
in fact i sometimes feel like i can let go of the rope altogether the friction is that high,maybe it dpends whether the device is clipped to your belay loop or extended like petzl suggests,also im only 10 stone,i guess the more weight the more force is needed on the device...
colin harvey on 20 Jun 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. the atc guide is much easier. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide.
Hannes on 20 Jun 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide
alasdair19 on 22 Jun 2012
In reply to Hannes: Anyone used the WIld country version?
rob1 - on 07 Jul 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

I have the older bd guide which has always handled well and feels pretty robust and have used that to belay two seconds in guide mode in winter on 8mm ropes with no problems. Although I did keep a hand on the dead ends at all times I'm not sure I would recommend this but it worked fine for me on easier ground.

I have bought the reverso 4 basically due to the weight for alpine trips and have used it recently and found it brilliant to use. It was fairly grippy on 8.5mm ropes and I plan to replace my 8mm ropes with something smaller the ice twin etc which is 7.7mm I think. Based on recent experience the reverso should be fine on a rope this diameter.

As for the wear i cant comment but i am using by BD guide on a regular basis where weight is not an issue and saving my reverso for multipitch routes or alpine/winter stuff.
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highclimber - on 07 Jul 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo: I use my Rev3 with 7.8mm twins with no bother.
is the Rev4 much lighter than the 3?

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