/ Do Nuts have to be made of Metal why not Nylon?
It has been tried (I think Gear4rocks make some) they seem like a great idea until you have to clean one out of a placement that has held a fall. Plastic nuts will deform a lot more than ally ones and I'm not sure that people will thank you for making classic crack lines look like a line of in-situ copperheads :-)
You can buy plastic nuts. Gear4rocks make them:
There are also some threads on here about them (not many people seem to like them) so you might want to search the forums for them.
Yes I can see that problem
They were rubbish, slipped out like they had grease on them. I'm sure someone will have a photo somewhere.
As said nylon was tried back in the 70s but they didn't catch on as they tended to be difficult to get out after holding a fall, or so it was said at the time.
Lightweight nuts made of cord... mmmmmmmmmmm
* note: I know nothing about science and stuff
Same ethic as Elbanstein in Germany. Give it a try ! its certainly quite an exhilerating experience
> Lightweight nuts made of cord... mmmmmmmmmmm
Weren't they known as "Russian Friends"?
Graham D... you used that as protection? any falls?
I did but I didn't dare fall ! A couple of German friends we had from the area seemed quite comfortable with the concept though - the rock does seem to lend itself to very knot friendly constrictions.
There was deffo something call Nychocks way back then.
> * note: I know nothing about science and stuff
Isn't this pretty much just a swishified version of cornflower custard?
An interesting concept though. The D30 Products web site says "D3O materials in their raw state flow freely when moved slowly, but on shock, lock together to absorb and disperse energy, before instantly returning to their flexible state." So if it held a fall it might then drop you afterwards. Perhaps such protection could be the basis of a purer climbing ethic than normal trad leading, i.e. you can fall but you can't rest?
Aside from the issue of being hard to remove, I imagine that you would start to line cracks with a thin veneer of slippery nylon - not great for jamming friction ;-)
In this one, I am slightly confused as to why the mix of friends and knots? I have climbed at Ostrava in the Czech republic, and knots were used as the rock was too soft for metal. If this stuff in Annot is solid enough to take friends, surely they could take normal nuts too? Is it just a cultural thing?
There are a few problems in general with plastic nuts, the main ones being the change in properties with temperature. The standard for nuts needs to be rewritten to account for this, as current designs may not function adequately in either cold or hot conditions.
I could envisage nuts that have a central core where the wire attaches with significant chunks taken out of it, as the size gets bigger. So that the outer "surface area" stays the same but without all the excess metal sat inside.
Come to think of it, If I were in the final year of my design degree I would of done that instead. Ah well!
Someones already done that tho right?
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