In reply to Dave MacLeod: "Jacob I don't really think of being a professional climber like your idea. The way I make it work is to have personal climbing goals and find professional ways to make them happen. Everyone is different though and I just do what works for me. I'm not really interested in doing different disciplines or routes because it would look good. It wouldn't work anyway because people have their own agendas as you can see from lots of comments on the thread. Folk used to say I was just really a trad climber and a weak boulderer because I only bouldered Font 8a. They used to say I was really just a winter climber because I hadn't done E9 yet. They said I could only do steep routes because I couldn't do Indian Face. They said I only downgraded the Walk of Life (another slab) because I was so used to standing on my feet for hours on my onsights! What can you do but shake your head at all that hot air?"
Thats just the issue I was trying to get at.
All this hot air, all this hype, people saying this guy is the best at this or not at this and all of our armchair speculation, this is the reason that if I were you I wouldn't go in for comps either. Being at the mercy of the press, and worse, the forums, must be horrendous. Examples like Gaskins, Koyomada and Simpson show extreme examples of the negative side of climbing media, and their reactions were not at all unjustified. It is to your credit that you stick it out.
The curse of being professional is everyone talking about ascents, comparing, and in these forums that all ends up being personal and somehow turns negative. Reading back through all of this I feel awful to have been a part of it - the speculation I and others were making casually were made without thought for these professional challenges, or the personal feelings they might bring up.
We all joke with our climbing partners about our weaknesses, our strengths, our uncharacteristic successes and embarrassing failures. The banter is positive, we know none of us are at all personally bothered about their climbing achievements. It helps us to notice weaknesses, not get too arrogant, and remember how to laugh at ourselves. To me all of this is positive, between friends.
But when we know so much, through the media, about someone like you, who we dont really know, this sort of discussion is not the same. It somehow ends up looking ugly, unfriendly, and sometimes bitter. For me, and likely most others, this is in no way the intention. It is much more like a game of top trumps.
I feel it is worth stating some of my opinions that I realise were not implied in my earlier comments, that should have been:
Dave Macleod is a fantastic climber, world class in several disciplines, and an inspiration. He is also a really friendly and unassuming character who probably undersells rather than exaggerate his successes.
Like everybody he has his weaknesses, but though banter between friends is productive and friendly, somehow here it doesn't always come across that way.
I guess from many people's opinions here, I am not the only one who is really awful at headpointing. Rubbish at it. Terrifies me. And because I dont enjoy it, I dont do it.
And the reason I don't go in for comps? I reckon I would do so badly it would hurt my pride. In it to win it and all that.