/ Bishop advice

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chubbs2 - on 25 Jun 2012
I'm passing through Bishop in early August on a 'family' California trip.
All being well I might manage to get a couple of hours bouldering in. Can anybody advise a bouldering area which is close to the road, ideally not too highball (won't have a pad or spotters)and has a few classics up to V5/6. Traverses might be useful etc as would shaded spots as I guess it'll be too hot really....just a shame to miss the opportunity.

The previous article on UKC suggests maybe Happy or Sad boulders?

Any 'don't miss' recommendations also appreciated.

Thanks.
Alan Rubin - on 25 Jun 2012
In reply to chubbs2: Not surprisingly Bishop is usually brutally hot in August, though you are usually OK in the shade. The famous Peabody boulders are not far from town and very accessible---though do be careful on some of the dirt roads (we got stuck quite deep in sand and had to be rescued by some helpful locals with a big pick-up truck). While the Peabodys are most famous for the giant super-highball boulders, there are a number of satellite boulders with much more reasonable dimensions and a variety of worthwhile problems. You can almost always find things in the shade except at mid-day. I've not been to either the Happys or Sads but I'm sure shady nooks can be found in both areas. August surely isn't prime bouldering season in Bishop but, like us, I'm sure you can get some problems done while passing through.
Michael Ryan - on 25 Jun 2012
In reply to chubbs2:

Like Alan says, it will be very hot, but early or late at either the Peabodies or the Happy/Sad should be OK.

Alternatively head north..

Way Lake is good: http://vimeo.com/channels/19208

Way Lake is a bit of a walk.... but high elevation in a beautiful alpine setting. Some problems there are OK without a pad, but most do need one.

More roadside is the volcanic tuff of:

Deadman's Summit: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/deadman-summit/106159406

or the Bachar Boulders: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bachar-boulders/106047133

Mick
Michael Ryan - on 25 Jun 2012
chubbs2 - on 25 Jun 2012
In reply to chubbs2:

Many thanks for the info. guys. As you say I'm sure the heat will be a challenge, it would just be good to sample bouldering at Bishop. We're staying in Mammoth for a couple of days so hopefully I may get the chance to try some of Mick's suggestions further north.

Cheers.
Alan Rubin - on 25 Jun 2012
In reply to chubbs2: There are a few small granite crags right in Mammoth, so most likely there is some bouldering as well. Deadmans is a bit further north and mostly pretty highball---I've opted to top-rope there, but I'm a whimp. If you have gear, the pleasant sport climbing at Clark Canyon isn't too far from Mammoth.
jon on 25 Jun 2012
In reply to chubbs2:

I arrived there latish September a couple of years ago. It was 97F. I said to the receptionist at the motel "Oooof, it's hot". She replied "Yep, cooling down nicely!"
paget - on 25 Jun 2012
In reply to chubbs2: I've climbed up at the Peabody boulders in July into august. We climbed in the evening. It was still hot, but still got plenty in. It was still worthwhile and a few others were there with mats to share.
Just one thing, as the sun goes down, the snakes seemed to come out. Lots of rattlers.
Enjoy
Andy Kassyk - on 26 Jun 2012
In reply to chubbs2:

Rock Creek has some granite boulders - between Bishop and Mammoth. Some of the bouders are in the woods so shaded. At an altitude of around 8000ft. so may not be too hot. I was there in november - it was cold and damp then. Might be OK in summer
Alan Rubin - on 26 Jun 2012
In reply to Andy Kassyk: I've climbed routes in Rock Creek Canyon in June and it was perfectly reasonable. The boulders are usually in the trees (I seem to remember passing a good-looking one right in the campground) so should be fine during August.
Niels - on 26 Jun 2012
In reply to chubbs2:

Would recommend the buttermilks over happys/sads just due to the altitude, otherwise it will be very hot. Only part of the happys/sads which is okay at that time is the ice caves and the problems there tend to be harder, or lacking slightly in quality compared with the rest. Never been to rock creek etc. So can't comment on that.
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Tru - on 27 Jun 2012
In reply to chubbs2:

I was there in September last year. Buttermilks was far too hot for serious bouldering until very late in the day however I had a good time at the Happy Boulders climbing in the shade for most of the day.

The Buttermilks are worth driving out for a look as they are truly impressive in size and you could always climb a v0/v1 highball.

Make sure you stop at the bakers with the British telephone box outside, amazing sandwiches!

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