/ NEW ARTICLE: VIDEO: Classic Almscliff Soloing
In the video Jack solos the classic Almscliff routes of Overhanging Groove (HVS), Demon Wall (HVS), Great Western (HVS), Western Front (E3), Wall of Horrors (E3) and Big Greeny (E3) in a showery afternoon.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4748
Honestly the best video on UKC for a while. Besides that I can't solo E3 it all felt very 'out with yer mates' 'nothing special'. A pleasure to watch.
Great video and climbing, nice one.
Great video. Really encapsulates grit soloing, and the attitude that goes with it. Enjoying great routes you've done before, sorting out any problems as they arise, and above all, knowing what you're doing.
Inspiringly good climbing. Makes those routes look so easy! Maybe one day...
It has everything, a scary watch at a fantastic british venue with some great climbing & a little history thrown in for good measure, make a feature film if you ever get the chance, i could watch hours of it!
A great film guys and great climbing Jack. Well done.
Very enjoyable video - very compelling!
WHAT A REFRESHING CHANGE
For me this video encapsulates what is good about climbing films. Yes, it is a little bit clunky in places, but it is incredibly watchable and, unlike so many others, tells a bit of a story.
I would sum up this piece of work as being honest and reverent. The tipping of the hat to famous climbers and routes (Dolphin, Austin, Syrett) gives the whole piece a thread and ultimately some relevance. I also enjoy the link between classic HVSs and E3s as a leap in history - but also a leap in personal achievement. Many climbers aspire to routes such as Great Western and often look at Wall of Horrors as being unattainable. This video calmly demonstrates that we should perhaps not be so closed to the progression.
None of the action is overdone. In fact it is probably understated which is to the credit of the editors who kept it simple and, most of all, engaging. There was no overplayed drama, no overplayed closeups of fingers clinging onto that tiny crimp and no artificial building of tension. This was all about history and all about a climber enjoying some classic grit on a fine crag.
Most of all I enjoyed the soundtrack. What soundtrack? Exactly.
Far too often we encounter some thrash rock accompanying dramatic ascents. The soundtrack to this piece was the bleating of sheep and the pleasant, calm and lyrical tones of Jack as he gave little bits of personal information to us, little chunks of historical context and an overall sense that the pleasure in climbing comes from the pleasure in climbing. This was proof that you do not need music at all to make a piece watchable - you simply need to engage with your audience instead of trying to fill in the gaps.
Yes, it's a little clumsy in places. There are a few dead spots in the audio and it jumps forward quickly from here to there. It feels like a bit of a five-finger-exercise in film making, but all of this is entirely forgivable in this understated but engaging and refreshing piece.
Top marks from me. More of the same guys please!
Agree with others: one of the best films in months (years?) on UKC. Engaging sums it up perfectly.
Great film, thanks for making it.
Excellent film of some of my all time favourites. Unfortunately you've blown the on-sight possibilities for a lot of young aspirants - particularly the cross hands move in the pocket of Big Greeny! If you haven't done this route yet don't watch it!!
But seriously this is an inspiring film of some of the very best routes on grit.
Great video. Best on here in ages. Only made it to Almscliff twice, once when I was just starting out and was content with the routes on the low man wall and a second time when it rained. This has made me want to desparately get back and try some of those classic HVSs!
Almscliff never fails to scare me and you made it look easy!
Great video but instead of so much lip flapping we could have some break beat or some techno instead, yeah? Like in real climbing videos!
Thanks for the feedback. It is indeed a little clunky in places, I didn't have a lot of time to edit it, as I have just returned from Africa, so have a lot of footage from that trip to go through. But all in all I am very pleased it is going down as well as it is.
I made a conscious decision to not include any music, I think it holds together well without it.
I know I said "clunky" but it really, really is forgivable.
We are spoilt on UKC by getting access to a lot of vids. Yours was one that actually had a thread of a story to it! And please stick with the "no music" approach wherever possible - it's cleaner.
will add my voice to the others - very enjoyable little film, with some lovely climbing in it. Particularly liked the fact that you could watch a flow of moves from fairly close up without lots of cuts and edits back and forth; really gave a sense of the actual climbing, rather than a series of disjointed "extreme moves on rock".
Also very sweaty-palm inducing! Don't know how you keep it together on some of those...
My thoughts exactly, the rest of the route feels like a romp compared to that move. I need to see a short arse do it because currently, I have no solution :-)
I held John Syrett's rope when was attempting to climb it, the top looked desperate from the bottom and wasn't surprised when he bailed out from the pocket near the top, I was sh**ting my self just watching.
To add my voice to the others, I really enjoyed watching this too
Beautiful climbing, Jack.
Lovely filming, Ian.
Wow. I tried that too, but laybacking overhanging rock didn't seem to work.
Echo all of the above....best on UKC for ages. More please...other venues, other classics....really inspiring especially with the weather like it is at the moment. I reckon the reason it's so popular is that it's routes that most people can aspire to rather than some hotshot on the latest 9a on some crag that most will never visit.
AS a previous poster said it's just like being out with your mates. Makes you wonder if there might be a market for climbing DVD's featuring 'normal' grade classics with 'normal' funny p*ss taking semi-rubbish climbers in the way that the Classic / Hard /Extreme rock books inspired people.
Alternatively I suppose I could just get on and do some climbing I suppose.
Very nice, especially the music.
Off topic, I always find it curious when people say how good some video is because it's just like going out on the crag with your mates. If that's what you want, why not just take a video camera out with you?! I always think the point of watching climbing videos is exactly that's they're nothing like my own pitiful flailings.
Very impressive climbing - especially in non-optimal conditions. Inspiring for us all.
really enjoyable video, will there be others in a similar style looking at classic routes on other major crags? would be a good series...
"So he fell face first into some boulders and broke his arm"
Oh how we laughed!
Superb vid by the way :p
Agree with a lot of what's already been said - a really enjoyable video. While it's cool to watch videos of superhuman feats of overhanging crimpy heel-hooking 9a+ madness, it's also great to see someone just climbing really well (and really boldly) on the sort of moves that you can actually imagine doing yourself. More stuff in this vein would be amazing.
One minor suggestion - it'd maybe have been nice to see a few more long "establishing" shots giving more of an idea of where the lines actually go, for those of us who don't know Almscliffe.
Top stuff, anyway.
Jack - your a film star in the making!
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