/ Sweaty hands
I don't know how people manage with chalk balls, they're awful! As long as your chalk bag isn't filled to the brim, I'd continue to use loose chalk until you get told not to!
Changing topic slightly...why do some walls allow loose chalk and others don't? Can't just be because it means they need to hoover a bit more, can it? :)
> Changing topic slightly...why do some walls allow loose chalk and others don't? Can't just be because it means they need to hoover a bit more, can it? :)
my local wall claim it's an air quality issue????
Liquid chalk can work very well however it just may not do for you.
Cure worse than disease. Why would you do that to yourself.
1/ Liquid Chalk - Apply it a few times through the session and top up with a little chalk from your chalk bag as required.
2/ Wash your hands - when I find my hands get sweaty, I give them a proper wash (with soap and everything!) and it makes a massive difference. Wash them before climbing and during a session if required.
Since it is only just about possible to get enough chalk out of a chalk ball to make a single move by rubbing it vigourously between both hands and this is obviously impractical in many climbing situations, I just ignore ridiculous rules against loose chalk. If I get caught I obediently buy a chalk ball and cut it open to release the chalk so that it is possible to continue climbing.
This could be fear sweat, Breath to cool down and regulate heart rate.
High blood pressure, same as above but consider diet also.
Physical activity makes you sweat. Climb at a steadier pace, drink more cold drinks and don't let your heart rate get too high, In turn train a little cardio so your heart gets used to pumping hard and keeping cool.
Damaged thin skin can also prove slippy particularly if your pulling hard on grit boulders all day. Look after your skin moisturize,soft thick skin is stronger than dry flaky skin and will take more of a beating. Ask any beauty therapist. Over use of chalk actually adds to skin damage. My chalk pretty much stays in my bag I find on a 10 hour day at stanage I'll probably need my chalk once, at which point I have to man up and live without, or ask my belayer to launch some at me.
> Since it is only just about possible to get enough chalk out of a chalk ball to make a single move by rubbing it vigourously between both hands and this is obviously impractical in many climbing situations....
You're talking balls again there Robert.
> You're talking balls again there Robert.
Yes, chalk balls. How do you suggest I hold onto the rock while chalking up using a chalk ball?
I stopped using chalk at the wall 2 years ago, it makes absolutely no difference to the grade I climb (up to 6c) and I've improved because I'm not wasting energy chalking up all the time. I wish less people used chalk at the wall, 80% of climbers just use it out of habit, I know I did.
Another vote for going 'Cold Turkey'. A lot of climbers - myself included - use too much chalk and often at entirely inappropriate moments: such as in the middle of crux moves. If you want to kick the habit leave your chalk bag at home and try a few sessions without. Incorporate this with a bit of the 'no take' game and see how far you get. It won't jump you fro
6a to 7a but it will show you how far you can go.
I am fairly lucky in the fact that my hands dont sweat much at all unless its a really hot day, or im doing a route that has a lot of big slopers.
I would say to try a couple of sessions without using chalk and see how you go. After all most people chalk up out of habit and not really at a point when they actually may need it.
I have 'two' chalk balls in my chalk bag. One is the ball that I got 3 years ago, so really there aint much actual chalk in there. The second one 'split' open so is now loose chalk in my bag, that way if a member of staff moans that im using loose chalk and the have a chalkball only rule, I just pull out the remains of the really old chalkball.
For me the idea of climbing indoors without chalk is laughable, normally when I fail on routes indoors it's simply through sweating off the holds or pumping out through having to over-grip everything. I under-perform by around 3-4 grades indoors for this reason alone, and struggle on any holds that aren't positive regardless of size. Coupled with the fact that most climbing walls have nowhere near enough ventilation.
Very well said and I identify with you wholeheartedly. The new wall at Plymouth is particularly warm and humid and I cannot climb anywhere near my standard with a t shirt on, let alone without chalk.
I am interested to see the comment above that lack of cardio fitness may be the reason why my temperature rockets as soon as I start to climb. I get next to no cardio exercise.
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