/ Kilnsey main overhang

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alasdair19 on 28 Jun 2012
Hi

I'm minded to indulge my friends ticking tendency. Can i belay the aid pitch from the floor with a 60m or is an uncomfortable stance mandatory.

Is the really nice corner below dry?

al
John Mcshea - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to alasdair19:

I'm sure there's some story about Big Ron doing this rout on a rope which is too short....
I did the route in the rain when the first pitch was dry, seconding the second pitch is the mistake, as the faff at the lower off (over the lip) meant the water funnelled down the groove, down the rope and onto me, dry until that point.

Jb.
beardy mike - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to alasdair19: Your leader would have so much rope drag he wouldn't be able to move... plus the largest rack of extenders and krabs you've ever seen in your life... take the pain. Or make yourself a belay seat out of a bit of board, some cord and an old karrimat gaffer taped to the board...
GeoffG - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to alasdair19:
You can reach the lip belay with a 60m rope from the ground.
The 1st pitch is wet as of yesterday.

Geoff.
Ally Smith on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to GeoffG:
> (In reply to alasdair19)
> You can reach the lip belay with a 60m rope from the ground.

Correct, but i'm pretty sure you need a 70m rope to lower off from there!

ps, you shouldn't need any slings/krabs for the roof section. It's still sporting quickdraws from last years sport clkimbing efforts.
top cat - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to alasdair19:

I don't recall the belay under the roof as being uncomfortable........
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GeoffG - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to ally smith:
Correct. If you want to lower off from the lip then you need a 70m rope.
The belay at the end of pitch 1 is comfortable.
The belay on the lip is fine if a little lacking on ledges to stand on!
Geoff.

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