UKC

THE LOWDOWN: J-P Bouvier puts up 9A traverse in Font

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Jean-Pierre Bouvier on Fou rire, 8C, Fontainebleau, 4 kb55 year old Fontainbleau local and traverse master Jean-Pierre Bouvier has made the first ascent of Fou fire aller/retour for which he suggests 9A trav.
The left-to-right is an 8B trav. in its own right, while the right-to-left weighs in at a mighty 8C trav. Adding the two makes a 9A...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67228
 Tris 29 Jun 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

"shouldn't be confused with a 9A boulder problem (9A bloc), which would be impossibly difficult."

Impossible?
 7om 29 Jun 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

So if you climb a 9A boulder problem which is a traverse (and so legitimately called a 9A traverse), how would you distinguish it from a traverse problem graded '9A traverse' (also legitimately called a 9A traverse), though actually many grades easier?

I doubt I was the only one who thought this 55 yr old had claimed a 9A ascent.

Stupid french.
In reply to 7om:

so if he did another 'lap' back and forth, what grade would that be...?
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Pretty sound. I think it's called Fou Rire, maybe, not Fou Fire?

Anyway, ignoring the idiots above, what are the actual hardest traverses in Font. Is this it, or are there loads of 9a traverses?

jcm
 7om 29 Jun 2012
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

Well if 8B + 8C = 9A then you could say the addition of an 8C bumps the 8B up by 4 grades, or you could say the addition of an 8B bumps the 8C up by 2 grades...

it follows that 8B + 8C + 8B + 8C = err 10A!
 Yong_Welsh 29 Jun 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:


Just to clarify... This is a French 9a not a Font 9a right? Coz surely that would now the hardest graded boulder problem in the world?

Or am i missing something?

Iwan
 fried 29 Jun 2012
In reply to Yong_Welsh:

This is a Font traverse grade and is a completely different scale.
 Yong_Welsh 30 Jun 2012
In reply to fried:

What is the scale? I must admit i had no idea the traverses were graded differently out there.
 Yong_Welsh 30 Jun 2012
In reply to Robertostallioni:

Thank you
 archiecb 01 Jul 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Can we please make it clear that

9A = boulder problem
9a = route/traverse grade

Traverses are closer to routes, and graded the same (AFAIK) so lets just keep the nomenclature the same eh?

 PeterJuggler 02 Jul 2012
In reply to Tris: I agree that Font 9A should not be "impossibly difficult". If it was then all the boulders that will be sent in the future that are harder than the current 8C/8C+'s will all be squeezed into the 8C+ grade, making it very broad. Font grades are supposed to be open ended I thought.
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