/ Best all round waterproof jacket?
What are your priorities, are you into going lightweight or want something more bombproof. Do you climb fast and want something really breathable or are you looking for something that's going to keep going for years, with a weight penalty. Do you have a softshell you use or will this be your one stop jacket?
There are so many compromises to make with jackets, along the lines of:
If it's fully waterproof it won't be breathable
If it's very light it won't be warm
If it's very windproof it might be heavy
I'd recommend reading Andy Kirkpatricks articles on outdoor clothing.
You begin to learn that you need different jackets for different situations, or have a really thick jacket that weighs a lot and is too warm for most uses.
Something half the weight and more breathable - Rab Momentum
I have both of these, Changabang has last at least 5 years and still has some life left in it. Bought the Momentum as I really needed something lighter for climbing with and taking to the Alps. Havn't tried anything else really, so would be interested in seeing people's suggestions.
Not sure that's strictly true, a proshell jacket is going to have a HH of about 40k, that's pretty waterproof and it's breathable.
I know some people aren't impressed at how breathable gore tex is but if you walk uphill for a few hours in a proshell jacket and then do the same in a PVC jacket you'll soon realise how breathable the tex is.
The light versus warmth thing is a bit misplaced IMO, as is the waterproof/breathable as has been pointed out already.
The point it to keep you dry, not warm (apart from incidentally by keeping you dry).
In fact so is the windproof/heavy thing, a pertex windproof isn't heavy, nor would a plastic sheet be, which is also windproof.
So basically, not much of what you posted is true!
> Opinions please!
Wear a Pertex jacket with a thin fleece underneath. You'll find that it works so well you will stop wearing your waterproof unless conditions are really bad. Because you hardly ever wear a waterproof anymore, you will be happy with a cheaper jacket like a North Face Venture.
Well, you did ask for an opinion!
> Wear a Pertex jacket with a thin fleece underneath. You'll find that it works so well you will stop wearing your waterproof unless conditions are really bad. Because you hardly ever wear a waterproof anymore, you will be happy with a cheaper jacket like a North Face Venture.
> Well, you did ask for an opinion!
Probably not far off the best system for summer or good weather in winter. Although it's not cool!!!
Totally agree; mix and match a base layer, thin fleece, and pertex windproof, and then add a cheaper waterproof that's only donned in proper rain.
I would look at a Rab Latok or ME Morpheus as a good high performance compromise between cost, performance and technicality.
I've been searching for a good jacket and in my internet travels found a number of people talking of de-lamintation issues with the Changabang. Not really sure what to make of it but it has sort of made me very cautious with regards this jacket.
Second the Rab Latok, the event instead of gore makes it more breathable plus its a bit longer so perfect for a lot of rain ! the only thing with event though is that it will need reproofed far more than any other membrane.
> Probably not far off the best system for summer or good weather in winter. Although it's not cool!!!
Actually even better in winter.
The new Jack Wolfskin jackets made from Texapore Air and Texapore Hyproof fabrics are also worth a look. Texapore Hyproof has a particularly impressive spec: HH 40-50,000 mm; MVTR: 25-30,000 g/m2/24h
Keela munro! Ticks all the boxes. Nice and breathable, warm in winter, pit zips when getting warm, plenty of pockets, storm flaps over the zips and looks nice and so far after two years good use is still bombproof :-D
I live 2 miles from the Keela factory shop.
Pick up plenty of quality kit from them. Soft,hard and windshell.
I started with the Munro but it is a very warm beatie for those who run hot. It is bombproof as i still have my original from 15 years ago, which i use to walk the dogs in winter. If Budget is they key i would certainly go down that route but i use a variable base layer, with Keela down and a Rab VR/Latok on top. On a good day in winter HH warm and VR, on a bad, HH/keela down and Latok. Never been cold.
Carry a Rab photon just in case. Used it a few times.
Were curretly issued keela kit on our rope access team at work and so far has outlasted the
North face gear that was previously issued. Very good kit at good prices.
> ...storm flaps over the zips...
Hallelujah! Manufacturer manages to put storm flap where it should be, that makes a nice change!
Mine's perfectly OK in heavy rain...
Elsewhere on the site
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
The British climbing scene is very exciting at the moment. It is quite clear that as a sport it is developing at a rapid rate and... Read more