/ Best all round waterproof jacket?

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KASP82 - on 01 Jul 2012
I want a new waterproof jacket! Somthing that will do everything !! Winter summer climbing.

Opinions please!
Ben Sharp - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82: What sort of a budget? There's more technical jackets on the market now that there isn't really a best one so you'll probably get better options if you have some preferences.
What are your priorities, are you into going lightweight or want something more bombproof. Do you climb fast and want something really breathable or are you looking for something that's going to keep going for years, with a weight penalty. Do you have a softshell you use or will this be your one stop jacket?
samthom - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82: To be honest I'd look at either a pro-shell jacket or a Paramo jacket. Paramo is mega comfy to wear, it's great if you don't mind getting hot (not sweaty uncomfortable hot, just hot) and Gore works all year in the UK and despite what people think about event, it breaths better than most of their fabrics.
Daniel Heath - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82:

There are so many compromises to make with jackets, along the lines of:

If it's fully waterproof it won't be breathable
If it's very light it won't be warm
If it's very windproof it might be heavy

I'd recommend reading Andy Kirkpatricks articles on outdoor clothing.
You begin to learn that you need different jackets for different situations, or have a really thick jacket that weighs a lot and is too warm for most uses.
MikeLell - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82: For horrible winter conditions, durability and all the features - ME Changabang
Something half the weight and more breathable - Rab Momentum
I have both of these, Changabang has last at least 5 years and still has some life left in it. Bought the Momentum as I really needed something lighter for climbing with and taking to the Alps. Havn't tried anything else really, so would be interested in seeing people's suggestions.
Ben Sharp - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

> If it's fully waterproof it won't be breathable

Not sure that's strictly true, a proshell jacket is going to have a HH of about 40k, that's pretty waterproof and it's breathable.
I know some people aren't impressed at how breathable gore tex is but if you walk uphill for a few hours in a proshell jacket and then do the same in a PVC jacket you'll soon realise how breathable the tex is.

Ben

JayPee630 - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

The light versus warmth thing is a bit misplaced IMO, as is the waterproof/breathable as has been pointed out already.

The point it to keep you dry, not warm (apart from incidentally by keeping you dry).

In fact so is the windproof/heavy thing, a pertex windproof isn't heavy, nor would a plastic sheet be, which is also windproof.

So basically, not much of what you posted is true!
Oceanic - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82:

>
> Opinions please!

Wear a Pertex jacket with a thin fleece underneath. You'll find that it works so well you will stop wearing your waterproof unless conditions are really bad. Because you hardly ever wear a waterproof anymore, you will be happy with a cheaper jacket like a North Face Venture.

Well, you did ask for an opinion!
Ben Sharp - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to Oceanic:
> (In reply to KASP82)
>
> [...]
>
> Wear a Pertex jacket with a thin fleece underneath. You'll find that it works so well you will stop wearing your waterproof unless conditions are really bad. Because you hardly ever wear a waterproof anymore, you will be happy with a cheaper jacket like a North Face Venture.
>
> Well, you did ask for an opinion!

Probably not far off the best system for summer or good weather in winter. Although it's not cool!!!
JayPee630 - on 01 Jul 2012
In reply to Ben Sharp:

Totally agree; mix and match a base layer, thin fleece, and pertex windproof, and then add a cheaper waterproof that's only donned in proper rain.
GrahamD - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82:

I would look at a Rab Latok or ME Morpheus as a good high performance compromise between cost, performance and technicality.
Indy - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to MikeLell:

I've been searching for a good jacket and in my internet travels found a number of people talking of de-lamintation issues with the Changabang. Not really sure what to make of it but it has sort of made me very cautious with regards this jacket.

HazelNut - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82:
Second the Rab Latok, the event instead of gore makes it more breathable plus its a bit longer so perfect for a lot of rain ! the only thing with event though is that it will need reproofed far more than any other membrane.
The New NickB - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to Ben Sharp:
> (In reply to Oceanic)
> [...]
>
> Probably not far off the best system for summer or good weather in winter. Although it's not cool!!!

Actually even better in winter.
old skool on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82:
The new Jack Wolfskin jackets made from Texapore Air and Texapore Hyproof fabrics are also worth a look. Texapore Hyproof has a particularly impressive spec: HH 40-50,000 mm; MVTR: 25-30,000 g/m2/24h
AdCo82 on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82: me ogre is bombproof, me kongur is an amazing jacket......stay away from Rab Latok, not good in a heavy shower!!!
A Mountain Journey - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82: A Paramo jacket will do it all. Mines been out on about 300 days in the last year and it's always fantastic, winter or summer, wet weather, windy, whatever. It just works. Will soon be needing to replace it, but no point wasting time shopping around, it'll be same again.
Flat4matt - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82:

Keela munro! Ticks all the boxes. Nice and breathable, warm in winter, pit zips when getting warm, plenty of pockets, storm flaps over the zips and looks nice and so far after two years good use is still bombproof :-D
Fly Fifer - on 03 Jul 2012
In reply to Flat4matt:

I live 2 miles from the Keela factory shop.

Pick up plenty of quality kit from them. Soft,hard and windshell.

I started with the Munro but it is a very warm beatie for those who run hot. It is bombproof as i still have my original from 15 years ago, which i use to walk the dogs in winter. If Budget is they key i would certainly go down that route but i use a variable base layer, with Keela down and a Rab VR/Latok on top. On a good day in winter HH warm and VR, on a bad, HH/keela down and Latok. Never been cold.

Carry a Rab photon just in case. Used it a few times.
Flat4matt - on 03 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82:

Were curretly issued keela kit on our rope access team at work and so far has outlasted the
North face gear that was previously issued. Very good kit at good prices.
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Ridge - on 03 Jul 2012
In reply to Flat4matt:
> (In reply to KASP82)
>
> ...storm flaps over the zips...

Hallelujah! Manufacturer manages to put storm flap where it should be, that makes a nice change!
Gordonbp - on 03 Jul 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:
> stay away from Rab Latok, not good in a heavy shower!!!

Mine's perfectly OK in heavy rain...

flett53 - on 03 Jul 2012
In reply to KASP82: ME Kalanka
Darkskys - on 03 Jul 2012
In reply to flett53: Agree! ME Kalanka is sh*t hot
flett53 - on 05 Jul 2012
In reply to Darkskys: Costs a few bob, but worth every penny!

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