/ Second bouldering shoe

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Flinticus - on 04 Jul 2012
My shoes are near wrecked and I can no longer ignore that.

Need another pair but no idea what to go for. Not a beginner shoe. Will be mainly used for indoor bouldering, then indoor roped climbing. I have a wide foot. Not looking for a sharply downturned toe but some downturning would be desireable, as well as good heel hooking features.

Any ideas?
Fluvial - on 04 Jul 2012
In reply to Flinticus:

La Sportiva Katana?
5.10 Galileo?

I was told they were quite wide
Let me know what you go for in the end as I will be in the same boat soon enough
saffy - on 04 Jul 2012
In reply to Flinticus: 2nd 5.10 galileo's
Flinticus - on 04 Jul 2012
In reply to Flinticus:
Like the reviews of the katanas over the 5.10s (also a katana is way cooler than Galileo: deadly sharp Samurai sword V bearded renaissance man)
collywob - on 05 Jul 2012
In reply to Flinticus: Dude. Galileo rebelled against the church and wrote many of the modern rules of physics. Katanas adorn the mantlepieces of shellsuit wearing headbangers up and down the country.

My advice, go into Rock On or similar and spend forty five minutes trying on different shoes with a shoe bore and you'll get the right shoe for your foot/climbing ability.
tom_in_edinburgh - on 05 Jul 2012
In reply to collywob:
> (In reply to Flinticus) Dude. Galileo rebelled against the church and wrote many of the modern rules of physics.

Yeah - but what did he ever do on grit?

Flinticus - on 05 Jul 2012
In reply to collywob:
Nice intercession!

Prob with shops is that the range in each shop is very small, even at the climbing centres. Excluding the flat ones for beginners & the agressive ones for high end climbers, there's maybe only 3 shoes I can select from.
jdawg_85 - on 05 Jul 2012
In reply to Flinticus:I've got the katana lace, there an excellent shoe though I did have to wear them around the house to get them to mould to my foot properly.
Flinticus - on 05 Jul 2012
They look good but are expensive! Which, sadly, is a current factor?

Anyone use the Boreal storm?
The Shelf Puffin - on 05 Jul 2012
In reply to Flinticus:

Have a look at Boreal blades, my shoe of choice. Limited stockists in the UK though.

Off the web Bannafingers are good with try and return, fairly painless.
exploringtim - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Flinticus:
> My shoes are near wrecked and I can no longer ignore that.
>
> Need another pair but no idea what to go for. Not a beginner shoe. Will be mainly used for indoor bouldering, then indoor roped climbing. I have a wide foot. Not looking for a sharply downturned toe but some downturning would be desireable, as well as good heel hooking features.
>
> Any ideas?

I also have fairly wide feet and whilst you should totally try some in your local proper climbing shop, do have a look at the Scarpa Vapor V's - I found them to be an excellent 2nd shoe.
MonkeyPuzzle - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to exploringtim:

Just bought the same. Noticeably wider than my Evolv Bandits and have been comfortable, but snug, straight out of the box. Not used them in anger yet but have only seen good reviews.
misterb - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Flinticus:
Another vote for the vapour vs or the lace alternative,they are both excellent performers and fairly wide as well.
turtlespit - on 17 Jul 2012
I've got relatively wide feet, and went on a shoe trying on spree recently. Main problem with shoes seemed to be snugness of the heal fit, and I wanted something that I could heal hook with.

Found the Scarpa Instinct (lace version) and Boostics were the best fit, and bought the Boostics (typical price seems to be 115 quid though). Didn't try the Vapor or Instinct S though.

I also use a pair of 5.10 Rogues for indoor and easier outside stuff. They heal hook better than my Anasazis, and can usually be found for around 70 quid.
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Oliver Houston - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to Flinticus:
>
> Anyone use the Boreal storm?

I've had a pair, they're fine if they fit well, I was permanently worried I'd snap the weird drawstring lace-cro system as it felt a bit flimsy...

Turns out the rubber wore through 1st (after maybe 6 months heavy use as a training shoe - lots of indoor bouldering)

I also have fairly wide feet, I've found the anasazi's are great (Whites are the best, followed by VC's - although fairly expensive) the vapor V's felt good when I tried them on and the scarpa forces, although a little less technical, currently using Boreal Spiders as they were cheap on ebay, again good as a training shoe.

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