/ cosmiques arÍte

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JanBella - on 06 Jul 2012
what gear do you need for cosmiques arete?
Daithi O Murchu - on 06 Jul 2012
In reply to JanBella:

abseil skills and some good footing, and climb a severe move ( one) with footing of juts crampon points at crux,

so say two large slings ( one for redundancy) maybe some larger nuts

and i was/am a crap climber, Will simms just soloed it up behind us as a way to meet his mates at the midi. a lhe had were axes
Lew13 - on 06 Jul 2012
In reply to JanBella:

Not a lot... Selection of wires, couple slings & quickdraws. "Crux" is protected by pegs and belay below & above is bolted.
highclimber - on 07 Jul 2012
In reply to JanBella: as mentioned the abseils don't require anything other than a rope and the 'difficult' rock step near the end is protectable with a wire and the belay is bolted. its easier in crampons but wouldn't bother to put them on for that bit though there is a snow patch before it that can be a little problematic if icy but it will probably have big steps cut into it from the hundreds of people that go up it each week.

Have fun, be safe - it's a fun way to finish off a day and is arguably safer than VB arete if not a bit longer!
Al Randall on 07 Jul 2012
In reply to highclimber:
> its easier in crampons but wouldn't bother to put them on for that bit though there is a snow patch before it that can be a little problematic if icy but it will probably have big steps cut into it from the hundreds of people that go up it each week.
>
You cannot say that. I have done this route dozens of times, quite often solo as a means to get back to the station. There were times when I never put my crampons on and other times when I never took them off.

Al
becauseitsthere - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to JanBella:
It's a common route for guides to take newbies on and can get busy so be patient and don't get too close or you might get a crampon in the face! Enjoy it.
stuart58 - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to Al Randall: depends on conditions really and number of people on it enjoy
Al Randall on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to stuart58: Why are you telling me, I've done it more times than I care to remember.

Al
highclimber - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to Al Randall: Why can I not? it's true that the rock step is easier in crampons as there are drilled hols for crampon points.
jon on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to highclimber:

Boots fit those holes perfectly too...
Al Randall on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to highclimber: You are missing my point. Conditions on the day will dictate how the route is climbed. Neither you nor I or anyone else for that matter can suggest how it might be achieved from the comfort of our chairs and based on previous ascents.

Al
highclimber - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to Al Randall: of course I can, you seem to miss the point of an internet forum. Besides, I never said how it should be climbed.
franksnb - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to JanBella: i did it last week, i would leave the crampons on for the duration which is the norm as far as I know. in general it was hot as hell in cham(~30 Celsius; rain at 3800m one particular day) and last winter was quite dry. as a result snow conditions are less than perfect. the cravases are opening up in the valley blanche. august will be death on a stick.
Al Randall on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to highclimber: Fair enough, I must have misunderstood what you were saying.
victorclimber - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to JanBella: ive done it and never worn crampons ,dont miss the abseils
jon on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to franksnb:

> i did it last week, i would leave the crampons on for the duration which is the norm as far as I know

You're not listening to your uncle Al. The Cosmiques ArÍte goes in ANY weather, ANY time of the year. Would you wear your crampons when it looks like this?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/75247957@N03/7529142682/

Looks good doesn't it? Classic Chamonix!
franksnb - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to jon: im sure it does go in any condition, it is a ridge after all. last week I wore crampons, I thought the op would like to know. I always wanted another uncle.

here is what it looked like last week.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151904477900521&set=a.10151904470395521.864491.53075052...
jon on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to franksnb:

You missed my point Frank. You said "... which is the norm as far as I know". I was just pointing out in a lighthearted manner that there is no norm.

I know what it looked like last week. It doesn't look like that this week.
iani on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to JanBella:
Jan - for the faint hearted the tricky rock move at the end can be protected by asking the party infront to put a sling over a spike just above the move . Highly unethical but quite handy!
ian
Ben Briggs - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to franksnb: there was actually a lot of snow in may and the start of june, alot of it is still around up high, this followed by very hot weather is what caused dodgy snow conditions. August will probably be no worse than any other year, i would rather negociate an open creavase than fall through a weak snow bridge. As jon says there is no norm and conditions change very quickly so its impossible to say how something should be climbed other than making a judgement at the time.

Ben
ads.ukclimbing.com
franksnb - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to jon: ah right sorry.
highclimber - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to iani:
> (In reply to JanBella)
> Jan - for the faint hearted the tricky rock move at the end can be protected by asking the party infront to put a sling over a spike just above the move . Highly unethical but quite handy!
> ian

how is that highly unethical? it's the alps - anything goes.
JanBella - on 08 Jul 2012
In reply to iani: good advise, thank you iani
rossn - on 26 Jul 2012
In reply to highclimber: Ye its funny that. I noticed another couple of holes drilled in the rock at the step that goes right after a short cul de sac, at the end of the traverse after the second abseil (a bit like the step in SC Gully on SCNL), if you know whaty I mean, the last time we were there. A bit of unecessary vandalism I would say. I also remember the outrage and photos posted on here when the two holes you refer to were first noticed. Again pretty unecessary as the move in question is again straightforward and about 3 feet off the ground.

RN
gingerdave13 - on 26 Jul 2012
In reply to becauseitsthere: the worst issue i experienced on this was a falling ice axe just after one of the abseils.

it landed about 1m away from my parnter..
jon on 26 Jul 2012
In reply to rossn:
> (In reply to highclimber) Ye its funny that. I noticed another couple of holes drilled in the rock at the step that goes right after a short cul de sac, at the end of the traverse after the second abseil (a bit like the step in SC Gully on SCNL), if you know whaty I mean, the last time we were there. A bit of unecessary vandalism I would say. I also remember the outrage and photos posted on here when the two holes you refer to were first noticed. Again pretty unecessary as the move in question is again straightforward and about 3 feet off the ground.
>
> RN

Why don't you go and complain to the Compagnie des Guides, Ross? I'd love to see their Gallic response! For what it's worth I agree with you.
rossn - on 27 Jul 2012
In reply to jon: Yes I know what you mean. I suppose you have to remember that it's a bread and butter route for these guys and since it's in France we dont really have much say in the matter. As long as they dont come over here and starting cutting holds on Tower Ridge or something. You're not allowed to leave a sling on there as it effects the aesthetic of the route and the joy of free movement. Ha! Ha! LOL!

RN
rossn - on 27 Jul 2012
In reply to jon: Oh and I forgot about crampon scratches. Remember those rubber point protectors are'nt just for carrying them to them to thje bootom of the climb you know. Sorry I'm in a funny mood today. Must be Olympic euphoria.

RN
johncook - on 27 Jul 2012
In reply to highclimber: Have done it as a 'winter' climb in August and as a rock climb in January (It was chilly but desparate. I have seen the weather change when at the top of the first slabs which turned everything from a nice summer scramble into a desparate verglassed epic. Take gear for all situations, but not overmuch and be prepared. It is always a fun route and as such I would recommend it, but I always add the proviso that it is in the mountains, conditions can change very quickly! Don't get caught out by it's benign position ending at the cable car station.

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