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Single pitch climbing in Great Langdale??

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 shelagh23 07 Jul 2012
Hi
im off to the Lakes for a week on the 13th July, I'm a fairly confident trad leader at V.diff level single pitch...BUT haven't led any multi pith climbs yet (But have had tuition). My question to you is are there any single pitch climbs near the Great Langdale area or with in 10 miles?
Ive been looking at 'The Crescent' continuing up Gwynne's Chimney at Pavey Ark, also 'Middlefell Buttress' at the moment, am I being too ambitious? Any advice appreciated.
shelagh
 psaunders 07 Jul 2012
In reply to shelagh23: Crescent Climb is a good route. I did it as my first ever climb, leading it in walking boots with just a set of nuts.

You need a 50m rope for the first pitch (I had a 40m... sigh), there's hardly any gear but it's very easy. The belay ledge is huge and has in-situ pegs so ideal for first multipitch. The traverse of the crescent is exciting but has huge holds and loads of gear for hexes or small cams (which I didn't have). The third pitch is steep grass, rubbish.
In reply to shelagh23: upper scout crag just down the road from the new dungeon ghyll.
 a crap climber 07 Jul 2012
In reply to shelagh23:

Middlefell Butress would be a good first multipitch lead. The belay ledges are enormous, so its more like doing three single pitch climbs.
OP shelagh23 07 Jul 2012
In reply to a crap climber: Thanks! Forgot to mention I'll be seconded by a novice!Will have plenty of time to teach her safe belaying.

I know that 'The Crescent Climb' can be descended or ascended (Jake's Rake)but what about Middlefell Buttress, something tells me this should/ought to be abseiled? Do you know?
 Simon Rackley 07 Jul 2012
In reply to shelagh23: middle fell is a must, big belay ledges and if your not to confident on doing the first pitch then you can skip it and do it in two pitches and ab back the side of a tree. all you need is the weather now mate
 a crap climber 07 Jul 2012
In reply to shelagh23:

Most people abseil from a tree at the top of the second pitch (i think its the second pitch if you follow the guidebook description, but someone may correct me on this).

Alternatively you can scramble up a gully to reach a path above the crag and walk down. The guidebook mentions an MS climb you can also do to reach the top, but I've never done it. Someone else might be able to provide more details...
 digby 07 Jul 2012
In reply to shelagh23:

If you bottle the top pitch you can sling a rope round a tree to do a short ab to the walkoff. If you do the top pitch you can do a steep walkoff to the left or continue on up to Pavey Ark and the other routes you mentioned.
 digby 07 Jul 2012
In reply to digby:

... and it's just steep grass upwards after the top pitch unless you elect to do some nice easy scrambling on the patches of rock
 digby 07 Jul 2012
In reply to digby:

... and Gwynne's Chimney is good fun if you like bridging. But beware a large rucksack, you can get somewhat impeded or wedged in.
 Mark Eddy 07 Jul 2012
In reply to shelagh23: For good single pitch near Langdale try: Long scar; Black crag; Cold Pike crags; East Raven (there are at least a couple of worthwhile vd's on this last one).
The abseil from Middlefell is just doable with a single 50m rope but be careful, it's only just long enough!
Feel free to e-mail me if you want any more info.

Mark

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