/ UK Climbing vacation, 14/7-21/7

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rtwilli4 - on 09 Jul 2012
My wife and I have a week off starting this Saturday and still haven't figured out where to go. I'm sort of new to the climbing here and never know the best places to check weather, etc. I've goten some good advice here before and would like to get some help for next week!

I've climbed a bit at Bosigran and other Cornwall locations and was thinking it would be a good place to take the wife on some easy trad. She's sport climbed a lot but hasn't ever followed me on gear. Was also thinking of Cheddar Gorge, since we are coming from London, we could easily do both if weather cooperates.

Don't mind camping, B&B, would like to climb a few days and do something else for a day or two.

Thanks in advance!
Skip - on 09 Jul 2012
In reply to rtwilli4:


> I've climbed a bit at Bosigran and other Cornwall locations and was thinking it would be a good place to take the wife on some easy trad.
>
> Thanks in advance!

For easy single pitch trad try Halldrine Cove, right next to Bosigran but with much less traffic.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2706
The Ivanator - on 09 Jul 2012
In reply to rtwilli4: Make sure you check the access restrictions if you are climbing at Cheddar, in July many routes are off limits and you need to be a BMC member so you have third party liability cover.
For Sport Portland in Dorset has a greater choice of routes at all grades (well F3 - F8b) and far less complex access, can also be used as a stop off en route further West.
rtwilli4 - on 09 Jul 2012
In reply to rtwilli4:

Thanks guys. I haven't been to Cheddar before. Knew about the third party insurance but forgot. I have been meaning to become a member of the BMC, but still pay American Alpine Club dues and haven't made the switch yet.

Portland is great... I'll definitely check the weather there as well.

Any other places around Bristol work looking into? We will probably stop in for a visit, as it may be a city we think about relocating to in the future.
The Ivanator - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to rtwilli4: The Met Office is usually my first port of call for weather forecasts http://www.metoffice.gov.uk enter a place name for a local 5 day forecast, click on the arrow adjacent to each day to get 3 hourly breakdown, and remember in the UK the weather is usually too changeable for the forecasters to predict accurately!
Round Bristol there are loads of climbing options predominantly on Limestone, Avon Gorge in the city itself (mostly Trad, often bold); Wye Valley crags: Wintours Leap (Trad, some Sport), Shorn Cliff (Trad), Wyndcliff (Trad) and Ban-y-Gor (Sport some Trad); Goblin Combe (Trad); Fairy Cave (Trad, technical slabs, often bold, access code required from BMC rep) plus numerous other smaller crags (often former quarries).
myserable old git - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to rtwilli4: The Wye valley, Forest of Dean great climbing at numerous crags, especially Wintours Leap plus plenty to do if it's wet, try exploring the railway tunnels in the forest especially the one from Tintern quarry which goes on forever.
Slarti B on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to rtwilli4:
>
> I've climbed a bit at Bosigran and other Cornwall locations and was thinking it would be a good place to take the wife on some easy trad.

We have an annual club trip to Cornwall and the last 2 years I have partnered sports climbers converting to trad. We started with some easy single pitch stuff on Alisons rib area; good to practice gear placing and belay stations. Then went on to some easy and harder multi pitch, Ledge Climb, Doorway, Doorpost.

Bosigran worked well, nice rock and good gear placements. Sennen should be fine as well if you wanted just single pitch stuff.
Weather looks OK fro next week but, even in drizzle, Cornish granite is OK!

WeatherPro has a great iPadiPhone app for weather. Very good layout and I have found it fairly accurate.
Iain Peters - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to rtwilli4:

If you decide on Cornwall, it might be worth a day or two on The Lizard Peninsula. Much quieter than places like Bosigran and Sennen, and there has been a lot of development over the last few years, with many quality new routes in the Diff-Severe range. Details can be downloaded here:
http://climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/W%20Cornwall%20Hot%20Point.pdf

You might need the latest CC West Cornwall guide for cross-referencing.

Hope you have a good time wherever you choose to go

Iain
Sam Mayfield - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to rtwilli4:

If the weather in the UK looks really bad, jump on a flight to Alicante as Orange House is open for one week only.

It will be hot but we will be climbing early mornings then break to swim over lunch time, then climbing again 6 till 9.

Have fun wherever you end up.

Sam Orange house ;0)

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