/ NEWS: James McHaffie Climbs 'The Meltdown' - 9a Slab?
The line was first attempted and bolted by Johnny Dawes when he was climbing at his prime, during the time that he was very active on the slate.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67243
Mega! This is great news, and something we've been waiting for for a while.
Great to know James hadn't given up on it.
Why do I find this particularly inspiring?
A 9a slab. The mind boggles.
> Why do I find this particularly inspiring?
It's a slate saga
Superb! Dawes' book makes it sound desperate.
> A 9a slab. The mind boggles.
From my depths of punterdom, I wish they wouldn't call things like this "slabs" - it's demoralising!
Dawes wrote about this in OTE '96ish. Would be nice to drag out the article again (it'll be in the loft somewhere). I was so inspired I took a detour into the quarries just to look at Quarryman and Meltdown.
> Dawes wrote about this in OTE '96ish.
I've just spent all evening looking for it but failed :-( - it truly gave an idea of the difficulty of the climbing and how it sounded like a normal climb as opposed to one where there are few holds miles apart. From memory:- "sequences of 6 moves just to swap hands.....rounded micromounds for feet........a sideways dyno into a straight hand layback with the knee resting on the hand..."
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