/ Best UK 'Roof' climbs

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Goucho on 10 Jul 2012
OK, following on with the current 'best' theme, and because, having fallen off my garage roof 2 days ago, I'm nursing several cuts and bruises and bored, (don't ask how I fell - it's embarrassing :-)) what are the best roof climbs in the UK?

For the purists amongst you, I've tried to keep it to actual roof climbs (where the roof is the main part of the climb), as opposed to routes with a roof on them.

Sloth - Roaches
Painted Rumour - Roaches
Wombat - Roaches
Simpkins Overhang - Roaches
Gypfast - Roaches
FBD - Stanage
Quietus - Stanage
Tippler Direct - Stanage
Dangler - Stanage
Chameleon - Stanage
Harvest - Stanage (seriously mean!!)
Nectar Pitch 2 - Stanage (bewildering!!)
Kelly's Overhang - Stanage
Strapiombo - Froggatt
Hearse Arete - Gardoms
A35 - Bamford
Browns Crack - Ramshaw
Ramshaw Crack - Ramshaw (is there a more ferocious roof crack?)
Sentinel Crack - Chatsworth
Rays Roof - Baldstones
Santiano - Cheedale (it used to be protected by old pegs - has it now been retro-bolted?)
Ceiling Crack - Widdop
Thirty Seconds Over Winterland - Widdop
Orchrist - Almscliffe
The Thing - Harrisons
King Kong - Carreg Hyldrem
Neb Direct - Tremadoc
Spiders Web - Wen Zawn


tom290483 - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Mandela - Kilnsey
nniff - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Mangoletsi - Tremadog
Sexus - Dinas Mot

Freedom - Craig y Forwen (once upon a time)

Tensor - Tremadog
Dave 88 - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Yesterday's Dreams- Wintour's Leap. So hard to focus on the nice moves below when the roof hangs ominously above.
Gordon Stainforth - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

A bit odd that you should have Kelly's Overhang as a roof climb. Gobsmackingly brilliant as it is, it is not a roof climb because it sidles around the roof. It's got a couple of slightly overhanging gymnastic moves onto the block below the crux, that's all. Above that, it's technical delicate climbing of the highest order.
Goucho on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: I shall stand corrected on that one Gordon - though at 15, it did seem like a proper roof at the time :-)
petestack - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Think you're needing some Scottish routes there, so (while I can't vouch for these personally when they're all way too hard for me!) how about the likes of Burning Desire (Ardmair), Going for Gold (Glen Nevis) and maybe Dalriada (The Cobbler)?
parkovski - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Roof route at rivelin - like strapiombo it's an excellent introductory roof crack with really nice jams.

Hanging crack at Dovestones edge?
stonemaster - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho: Is Parliament House Cave the grand daddy of the all?
Ramblin dave - on 10 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:
Slight aside, but from this list, would it be fair to conclude that HVS is the minimum entry requirement to do proper roof climbs?

Also, how about Gobbler's Roof?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=47061
Not one I'm ever likely to get on, but worth a shout for the extent of the horizontalness if nothing else.
Toerag - on 13 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho: There's Pete Oxley's 8a roof thing at Swanage, and also 'The roof, the whole roof, and nothing but the roof, so help me god' in Jersey.
wilkie14c - on 13 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:
The Bat - Dovedale
Greenbanks - on 13 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Cobalt Dream (Ogwen)
GrahamD - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Toerag:

There are all sorts of roof routes at Swanage. Easier than the likes of Laughing Arthur by several grades are Nassty Spider and Billy Pigg.
GrahamD - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to blanchie14c:

Phils Route, Dovedale
chris wyatt - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to GrahamD: Divine guiding light and Jesus wept - both in giants cave, gower
John_Hat - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to Toerag:
> 'The roof, the whole roof, and nothing but the roof, so help me god'

Brilliant route name :-)
John_Hat - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Watkins Ale at Filey? It's not technically a roof, just silly overhanging (25ft high and 30ft overhung). But where does silly overhaging stop and roof begin?
Iain Peters - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Any of Caveman, Cromagnum, Lip Trip, Cocoon or even The Curse A4 etc etc. in the Great Cave at The Old Redoubt.
jacobjlloyd - on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to GrahamD: Swanage is the place for roofs! A few brilliant outings include.. The Fabulous Professor Panic, and (I'm told) Relax and Swing and The Mind Cathedral
cem on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to Dave 88:
> (In reply to Goucho)
>
> Yesterday's Dreams- Wintour's Leap. So hard to focus on the nice moves below when the roof hangs ominously above.

But that's a route with a roof as opposed to a route where the roof is the main part of the climb.

Dave 88 - on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to cem:

Surely that's true of all roof routes? The roof is always the minority part of the route.

And on YD, the roof is the crux so the whole route is about the roof/crux.....and the lower crux :-/
PebblePusher - on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

I can't believe no ones asked! How did you fall off your garage roof? I'm really curious now!!
cem on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to Dave 88:
Surely the crux is lower down, at the first bolt? I thought the roof was pretty straightforward
Dave 88 - on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to cem:

Yeah true I think that is a bit harder, but if you take the roof off the route, it's just a low crux then into VS bridging to a lower off. The roof is the main event, no?
jacobjlloyd - on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to Dave 88:
> (In reply to cem)
>
> Yeah true I think that is a bit harder, but if you take the roof off the route, it's just a low crux then into VS bridging to a lower off. The roof is the main event, no?

true. But, it has no place in a 'Best UK roof climbs' thread, despite having a roof in it somehow, crux or otherwise. Its a one/two star route route (one of the better routes at the grade at Wintours leap I suppose, but thats not saying too much) with a bolt at the crux (for shame!) and an avoidable and uninspiring roof to finish. Its had more discussion than it merits already ; )
Dave 88 - on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to jacobjlloyd:

Fine I'm gonna put it in the best corners thread then!!
Jack Frost - on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

The Great Arch or whatever the route is called on Pabbay surely has to be the finest looking roof no?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=146871
jacobjlloyd - on 19 Jul 2012
In reply to Dave 88: Good call ; )
dan gibson - on 21 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho: Carbide Finger. Harrisons
ads.ukclimbing.com
Giles Davis - on 21 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

How about this one;

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=180380

Mortal Kombat - Dinas Rock
Duncan Bourne - on 21 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:
I am surprised that no one has mentioned that Thor's Cave aid classic "Kyrie Eleison" A3 the longest aided roof in the Peak
mark s - on 22 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:
> OK, following on with the current 'best' theme, and because, having fallen off my garage roof 2 days ago, I'm nursing several cuts and bruises and bored, (don't ask how I fell - it's embarrassing :-)) what are the best roof climbs in the UK?
>
> For the purists amongst you, I've tried to keep it to actual roof climbs (where the roof is the main part of the climb), as opposed to routes with a roof on them.
>
> Sloth - Roaches
> Painted Rumour - Roaches
> Wombat - Roaches
> Simpkins Overhang - Roaches
> Gypfast - Roaches
> FBD - Stanage
> Quietus - Stanage
> Tippler Direct - Stanage
> Dangler - Stanage
> Chameleon - Stanage
> Harvest - Stanage (seriously mean!!)
> Nectar Pitch 2 - Stanage (bewildering!!)
> Kelly's Overhang - Stanage
> Strapiombo - Froggatt
> Hearse Arete - Gardoms
> A35 - Bamford
> Browns Crack - Ramshaw
> Ramshaw Crack - Ramshaw (is there a more ferocious roof crack?)
> Sentinel Crack - Chatsworth
> Rays Roof - Baldstones
> Santiano - Cheedale (it used to be protected by old pegs - has it now been retro-bolted?)
> Ceiling Crack - Widdop
> Thirty Seconds Over Winterland - Widdop
> Orchrist - Almscliffe
> The Thing - Harrisons
> King Kong - Carreg Hyldrem
> Neb Direct - Tremadoc
> Spiders Web - Wen Zawn

a fair few of those art roofs at all
Al Evans on 22 Jul 2012
In reply to mark s: Can I put in a mention for this little known Gem at Pembroke, Levitation.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=113417
Cracking jugs on a proper overhang.
The Green Giant - on 22 Jul 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Monster Munch - Carn Vellan

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mYwNyJjwWY

Gives Parliament House Cave a run for its money.

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