/ Technical 7a in Frankenjura

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TheGeneralist - on 10 Jul 2012
Can anyone recommend a good uiaa 8 to try in either the fraenkische or fichtelgebirge. I'm looking for something technical and not too overhanging or pockety. I appreciate that I'm going to the wrong place for technical vertical climbing, but thought I'd try anyway.
The routes at Veldener Wand fit the bill perfectly but I did the onlyf7a there last year.
Oh and if anyone fancies meeting up for a few hours climbing between26 July and 10 august then let me know.
jimtitt - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to TheGeneralist:
Almost any of the 8´s in the Altmuhltal are horribly technical if vertical with little holds is technical!
If you only want the Northern Frankenjura then you are better off looking more in the Pegnitztal and further south, Gotthardskirche had some scratchy stuff for example.
madmats - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to TheGeneralist:

Not sure if it's in the right area, but 'Kalauer' at Obere Gössweinsteiner wände is a stunning line, with great climbing. I found it very hard for 7a at the time of trying it though.
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jimtitt - on 11 Jul 2012
In reply to madmats:
Next door is Napoleon with Membrane, Freundshaftsweg and Albert Englehart Gedankweg, they´re all pretty technical though none is actually 8 but either side of the grade. Membrane I did with massive rope assistance!

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