UKC

Gogarth north

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 Brian-P 11 Jul 2012
I'm going to gogarth this weekend and it'll be my first sea cliff climb.
Can somebody please recommend me a few diff or v diff routes please and also which guide book.

Any other sea cliff related advice wouldn't go a miss.

Thank you
 Jon Stewart 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Brian-P:

Tricky. Gogarth doesn't really do diffs/v diffs. I think the easiest regularly climbed routes are around VS - Lighthouse Arete is the classic, but even at that grade choice is limited. HVS/E1 is really where it gets started.

Have you thought about trying north Pembroke instead? Very beautiful cliffs with quite a few easy routes as well as harder stuff. Lovely sandstone slabs.

As for advice: make sure everyone knows exactly what they're doing re. abseiling, exactly what the tide is doing, exactly where you're going ("I think this is probably it" isn't going to be good enough), and that you know exactly what you'll do if you can't do the intended route (e.g. it's too hard, you get lost, it rains, etc, etc). If any of these things are in doubt, don't ab in!

I think there's probably an article on here about sea cliff climbing, have a search.
 GrahamD 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Brian-P:

Gogarth isn't really the right place to be climbing V.diff I'm afraid. There is climbing of a lower grade at the nearby Holyhead Mountain which will give you great views of the seacliff areas.
 stonemaster 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Brian-P: Prusiks!
In reply to Brian-P: Id stick to Holyhead Mountain. some very good routes there that don't require tricky sea level traverses and abseils, plus the fact there aren't and routes at the low end of the grade scale. your best guide book for the area is either the Gogarth North or North Wales guide both by GroundUp.

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