/ NEW ARTICLE: VIDEO/BIO: Classic Alpinism - Emilio Comici
Paul commented on the video in his email : "I think this would open a few eyes ... What belays?"
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4782
No sticky rubber
Not much in the way of gear
A rope you would only use to hang your washing on these days
An abb off said rope that looks mental
Not to mention the speed and fluidity of his movement over rock!
That's a real man. He is the ultimate polar opposite of a British bumbley!!!
The video music is better than most modern efforts too :-)
Puts us to shame doesn't it!
Does anyone know what the opening piece of music is?
I don't believe EC did free solo the Cima Grande route, did he, certainly not as I understand that term. Sans corde but using the pegs, I thought. Indeed I don't think it was done free at all until the 1960's.
Fantastic, thanks for sharing.
> Does anyone know what the opening piece of music is?
> Dave T.
Think its by Eric Satie but can't remember the name
It's Eric Satie - Gnossienne No. 1.
Was the rope essentially there for confidence? I can't imagine that a high FF fall would do anything but kill/cause serious injury to the leader, and pull the belayer off the cliff. Nae helmets an aw...
Shame that some of us canīt watch the video, it is blocked in Germany as the music performance rights payment hasnīt been made. Not the first time this has occured on linked videos on UKC either, the brave new media world I guess!
Comici wrote a bit too, and everything was published after his death in a book called Alpinismo Eroico. I don't think it was ever translated into any other language. In it he expresses, well, he expresses everything that climbing is about.
If you ever saw a German documentary made by Werner Herzog called Gasherbrum with Reinhold Messner, and you remember the scene when Messner is in a hot bath and is explaining that the climber is an artist, drawing indelible lines on the mountains like a painter would draw on a canvas, you should know that this idea comes originally from Emilio Comici.
His analogy of climbing being like ballet, in which the choreography is dictated by the features of the rock, but allows the climber a margin for their own personal expression, is not only brilliant, but completely unexpected in a young man who was from a working class background in Triest and started his working life, probably at 14, as a stevedore in the ports of his home town.
He was a visionary in his thoughts, words and deeds, and by all accounts every inch the angel of the dolomites that the legend makes him out to be.
Excellent amazing footage, Comici looked like a very confident climber you can see the analogy with ballet acted out here. A good climber never falls.......
Good point! Its all there isn't it, the belly flop, the moves in the chimney that look like an early Quarryman, the little bounces off the feet and even one or two moves that are too fast for the camera to capture.
We had them play Erik Satie at our wedding an all!
Thanks Paul and Doug, and sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Much appreciated.
Interesting they chose this beautiful music rather than Satie's Thrash 1, 2, and 3...
Many thanks again,
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