/ Climbing in Morocco

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Jones_88 - on 23 Jul 2012

Im off to Morocco in October/november for around 2 weeks around the Tafraoute area to get up to VS grade climbing done.
Has any body been before? If so have you got any tips on the area or crags to void or definately go to?
Any information would be usefull on either climbing there or just Morocco in generall.
Thanks

SCC - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to Jones_88: We went in March this year, climbing at the same grade as you.

It was great - don't have the guide to hand but will try and take a look tonight to refresh my memory!

In general:
People were very friendly and helpful - if you can speak a bit of French then you'll have no problem getting by.
If you're a nervous driver - get somebody else to drive! Roads can be a bit narrow for two vehicles, coaches never move over and the drops are big!
Nothing seems expensive out there really.
'Cafe Paris' is a great place for breakfast - get a pastry from the bakers next door and then grab an Expresso and enjoy your pastry and a coffee sat outside watching the world go by before heading out for the day.

Any specific questions, let me know.

Si
USBRIT - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to SCC: Might now be two guide books but the original one is by Claude Davies. Cicerone Press. ...Climbing in the Moroccan Anti- Atlas.. Tafroute and Jebel El Kest...You might still be able to get some up to date info at the Hotel Les Amandiers in Tafroute..New Routes Book
Jones_88 - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to Jones_88:
Did you wild camp out for a few days at a time or is it better to just drive out every day to the climbs?
otherwise thanks.
john ryden - on 06 Aug 2012
In reply to Jones_88:
Taxis were pretty good' Taxi 2000 as very helpful.
john ryden - on 11 Aug 2012
In reply to john ryden:
Wrong taxi name, I've dug out the one we used.
He was great moving us around locally & to the airport at Agadir.
Grand Taxi No 1
00212(0)667060497
bihmidine2005@hotmail.com
Jamie Wakeham - on 12 Aug 2012
In reply to Jones_88: the new Oxford Alpine Club guidebook's available here:
http://www.climb-tafraoute.webs.com/
Ron Kenyon - on 12 Aug 2012
In reply to Jones_88:

New guide book due out in September by Paul Donnithorpe and Emma Elsford.

I was out there a few years ago and planning on going out in October/November (probably November) and would be interesting in meeting up out there.

Give me an email on ron@jaggedlakes.plus.com if interested in linking up.

Great place - Claude Davies guide covers area to outh of range and new guide to the north of the range.

PLace for adventures - but Tafraoute is a great and interesting place. Beware of locals selling carpets etc.
Steve Broadbent - on 23 Aug 2012
In reply to Jones_88:
Heading out there myself in mid-November this year.
http://www.climb-tafraoute.com should answer a few of your questions.

Don't miss:
- Ksar Rock (lots of really good single and short-multi-pitch cragging routes, specially at VS)
- Adrar Umlil (a superb mountain crag that'll keep you occupied for days. A routecard for Ice Age and Event Horizon is available at http://climb-tafraoute.webs.com/guidebooksminiguides.htm )
- The White Tower (OK, so it's HVS but it's a wonderful route! Tifghalt miniguide here... http://www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk/downloads.html )
- The Central Buttress of Aylim (a roadside 500m VS! Free routecard at http://climb-tafraoute.webs.com/guidebooksminiguides.htm )
- Labyrinth Ridge on Aylim (800m roadside VS epic!)
The Pylon King on 23 Aug 2012

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