UKC

FIVA: An Adventure That Went Wrong, by Gordon Stainforth

My rating: 5 of 5 stars

Warning: spoilers!

When Gordon Stainforth asked me to read and review his new book, I jumped at the opportunity. His true story of an adventure going sour, and in the mountains of Norway no less, struck a chord and I couldn't wait to read it.

The story is a simple one: two brothers, young but obsessed with climbing, travel to the Romsdal region of Norway to climb a massive route on Store Trolltind. They underestimate the scale of the challenge and get themselves into bad trouble. I think every climber can remember biting off more than they can chew when young and gripped with ambition, so there's plenty to identify with here.

Gordon has chosen a very intimate first person point of view to narrate his book. At first, until I got used to it, this point of view jarred slightly and I found myself thinking maybe it was a bit over the top. Gordon writes from his own perspective, albeit from 1969 when he was nineteen, and in the first pages a lot of youthful exuberance and inexperience comes through--not a bad thing by any means, but it did take me a few pages to get a feel for the stream-of-consciousness style of writing.

This point of view is very narrow. We don't see much of the other character, John, because we're locked into Gordon's head. At first this bothered me, but as the drama of the story unfolds the sheer power of this writing style becomes very apparent.

FIVA goes beyond mere description. Because we're locked into Gordon's head, we see and experience every moment exactly as he does, and it's quite a ride: confidence giving way to uncertainty, frustration, the confusion of getting lost and off-route. When disaster strikes, the mental processes are mapped out with such amazing honesty that I found myself transported back to the (thankfully rare) occasions when I too have been close to death in the mountains.

It's all the more astonishing because this tale was pieced together forty years after the event, based on shared memories between the two brothers (which time had of course distorted). The reality of the story is driven home by frequent photographs taken at the time of the disaster. And the characters grow too: the experience draws out reserves of strength and survival skill in both of them, despite the mistakes they make that so nearly kill them.

After finishing the book, I'm left with the profound feeling that this is one of the best books about mountain misadventure that I've ever read. There are plenty of climbing books out there that feature harder routes, or higher mountains, even higher stakes. The beauty of FIVA is the unflinching honesty, the authenticity, and the intimacy. In experiencing such a harrowing experience from Gordon's perspective, so skilfully written, we experience it for ourselves in a way that many climbing books just can't manage.

Despite my initial misgivings about the unusual point of view, I have absolutely no hesitation in recommending this as a must-read for every lover of mountain literature. It deserves to become a classic of the genre, and based on the wealth of other enthusiastic five-star reviews I've seen on the internet for the title, I have no doubt it is destined for widespread success.

In reply to Only a hill: Nice review and good to see you back!

I was completely blown away by Fiva and found it compulsive reading. It's in a league of its own and Gordon should very proud of it. I'm off work with a bad back today so I'm going to read it again

In reply to Nicholas Livesey:
Thanks Nick, thought it was about time I came back now that I have constructive things to say again =P

In reply to Only a hill: Well, you're in the minority there mate

In reply to Only a hill:
Just a gentle bump--really would urge anyone who hasn't read FIVA yet to buy the book (it's worth it!)

In reply to Only a hill: Is Gordon selling signed copies!!!

In reply to Only a hill:

Best read I've had in a while. Gripping although I read the first half with a sense of dread.

Cheers

Toby

In reply to Only a hill: SPOILER!






































He survived...

In reply to Euge:

... Only at lecture engagements.

http://www.goldenarrowbooks.co.uk/fiva/lectures.php

Apart from that, I prefer people to buy it through Amazon or bookshops.

In reply to Only a hill:

My sister bought me a copy for my birthday in May, which, to my shame, I have not read yet.

Its next on the pile, though.

Y.

In reply to Only a hill: Just finished reading the book, one of the best I've read in ages. Really enjoyed it. I also felt the youthful arrogance a little bit exaggerated at the beggining but it didn't detract from the story overall.

Ben

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Lundy reading for me then

In reply to Only a hill:

It's a great book. Really enjoyed it, first time in a while I've read a book through in one sitting. Much better than the normal angsty books that seem to be common these days (Twight, House, Kirkpatrick etc).

I got a signed copy from a bookshop in Keswick, the one near the Co-op. So it's not impossible to get them.

In reply to mattrm:

Thanks for your comments, Matt.

BTW, it's dead easy to get now - most outdoors shops, many bookshops, inc. Waterstones, and of course Amazon.

In reply to Only a hill:
Bought it on the strength of Mr Hills review.
Just at the point when you have reached the bottom of the wall, a very enjoyable read so far.

In reply to Only a hill:

My copy's on the way, can't wait

In reply to Only a hill:

First time in a couple of years I have read a book in 2 days.
About to read it for the second time.

In reply to Only a hill:

I've had one or two people asking about autumn talks I'll be giving about Fiva. So far:
http://www.goldenarrowbooks.co.uk/fiva/lectures.php

In reply to Only a hill:

I read it last week, and found it difficult to put down. I enjoyed the "first person" - ness of it (it felt like a diary, written at the time of the action - whilst a moment's thought tells you it can't be that, its not a book to make you want to stop for that moment's thought). I felt to be "inside the head" of the author in a very powerful way, and therefore to be part of the adventure.

There were a lot of details that helped: I wasn't climbing in the late sixties (on account of the fact that I was five years old), but I have used the same sort of gear: it made the book somehow more immediate. And I enjoyed the sort of (public) schoolboy banter that could quote Les Dawson and Milton in nearly the same breath.

I don't know how well it would appeal to a non-climbing audience, but I'd guess it does so very well. I felt that there were enough explanations of the climbing background to enable the non-climber to enjoy the book, but not enough to slow the action.

I thought that John's epilogue worked very well: I wonder if Gordon's prologue (concerning the writing of the book) might have worked better at the end? Also (and its difficult to see how to get round this), the reader always has more info that the protagonists in the book: we know from page one its going to be an epic, and both characters survive, and we know that the ordeal will end in this many pages. Having said that, the "crunch point" at which it all starts to go horribly wrong surprised me in both its timing and intensity.

To sum up: a fantastic book. I commend it to the house.

Y.

In reply to Yrmenlaf:

Thanks for such a fabulous review.

The problem you mention in your second last para is really insurmountable, so I went with it, and gave the book the subtitle that I did. I wanted to use the dramatic irony of the reader knowing that John and I are putting our heads in a noose.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

I'm in on the strength of this enthusiasm.......

In reply to Slugain Howff:

Likewise Colin, it's on my Amazon wishlist. I have a birthday next month too!

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I'll echo what all the other reviews have said.
REALLY involving read, I felt like i was living it with you. Very erudite, without being overly pretentious. A really well written account of a hardcore ascent, which I'm sure many of us aspire to- either in spirit or in reality.
Thanks from a fellow Gordon.

In reply to crustypunkuk:

Thanks - but 'erudite'? ! OK, i did have fun with one classic quote. said very trivially in passing, but for those who recognise its context that should be a real ooh-er moment.

In reply to Only a hill:

Bought the book from the various recommendations I have read on this site, and agree that it is a great read, stayed up past my bed time last night to finish it! I found the writing style at the beginning a little unusual, the only way I can describe it is a bit 'jolly hockeysticks', but I'm guessing that it was of the time and adds to the sense of youthful enthusiam.

POSSIBLE SPOILER:

The bit near the end where Gordon is crawling uphill after realising they are on the wrong descent route and his body refuses to move, miles from help, bloody bricked my pants imagining myself in that situation, very well written.

In reply to Only a hill:

Another thumbs up from me, a great read, well written and a very interesting story. Makes my epics look like a nice easy day out in the countryside.

The fact that it's written in 1st person definitely makes it all feel a little more personal if you like. It's as though you're watching in real time, knowing you can do nothing to help. Different to the usual account looking back on the epic - i like it!

In reply to Only a hill:

When at uni in the late 70's a group of us had a "cunning plan", which was to go to Norway & climb the Troll Wall. I still have Tony Howard's 1970 Romsdal guidebook but, unsurprisingly neither the book nor us ever made it there. Probably just as well, but I look forward to reading Gordon's first hand account of what it actually entailed. Some of could have easily managed it, others likely not so easily; I would honestly put myself in the latter category. A nice pipedream!

In reply to Mike C:

I hasten to point out that the Fiva Route is not on the Troll Wall, but just to the right of it. Much easier, but still very serious, often being in very dangerous condition in the summer owing to rock fall. A bit confusing, because prior to the 60s the whole face (including the Fiva Route, and the buttresses left of the TW) was called the Trolltind Wall or Trolltindane Wall (I think).

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Gordon, I'm part way through Fiva: had to get to bed at 1.30. Gripping story, superb evocative writing!

In reply to ericinbristol:

Suggest you have a stiff whisky on standby for tonight

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Ordered on the back of these reviews!

In reply to Only a hill:
Glad this thread is still going and spreading the good word!

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

"Suggest you have a stiff whisky on standby for tonight "

Maybe a good follow up would be the production of your Cuillin masterpiece from the first person perspective of your liver?

Glad to see so many people enjoying this and agreeing with me what a compelling read it is (for some: I still suspect it's a bit of a marmite book but you wont waste much time finding out as it seems to grip those that like it pretty quickly).

In reply to Offwidth:

Interesting you should say that... I actually gave up whisky after my return from the Cuillin and have not had a drop of spirits since. So that comment about a stiff whisky above was purely 'figurative'


I'm puzzled by this 'marmite' comment, Steve (you've said that here once before.) Because I have literally not come across one single person who has not liked the book, and no adverse reviews, emails, or internet comments either. I have had the most astonishing mailbag of raves, though, plus a huge amount of very favourable online comments - many of which we've put on the Golden Arrow - Fiva website. So anybody who doesn't like the book has kept very quiet about it. (Which I don't mind at all!)

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Your right, Marmite is probably an over-stretched analogy its not love hate. I guess I mean it will either sweep you away or it will just be a good standard mountaineering book. I was certainly in the first category and most I know who read it seem to be ending up there as well.

In reply to Offwidth:

Ah. Thanks for clarifying that, because it didn't seem to bear any relation to the reactions I've come across on the ground. When I last went into [a famous climbing shop] in Keswick, I was astonished to find that I was treated pretty much like a celebrity and to hear that the book had been selling like hot cakes.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Gordon, surely it's only reasonable to expect that some people might not be bowled over by it?

In reply to Tall Clare:

Absolutely. Just haven't come across them yet.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Did you feel a bit like Elvis (now where are those photos??)

In reply to Offwidth:

Not at all - but I felt awfully like an "author", rather than a mere writer

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:


I remember calling round to visit Sorley Maclean who truned out not to be home. Is my memory correct that we took a bottle with us (as one does)? When you did meet him did you share a dram?
Your legacy lives on thanks to the fine education you gave me in your final months of whisky drinking. Many thanks and Slainte Mhor Gordon
PS Good luck with the book; look forward to reading it with a quality malt in hand.

In reply to Mike Lates:

We probably did take a bottle, yes. But surely you remember my story of my first meeting with Sorley? It would have made a wonderful scene in a comedy movie. He'd given me very exact instructions about how to get to his place in the Braes, and when I got there and parked the car he came out to greet me. I had a big jiffy bag with both of my previous books in it to show him (since I wanted to use his poetry in my new, Cuillin book), and, very strangely, he pointed at the parcel and said 'Does it glug?'

'Er, no, it's my books, actually,' I said. Then we hastened up towards the house - there was a very grand lawn with fine view out over the sea, and he introduced me to his wife, then asked what I wanted to drink. 'Would you like a whisky?' - so he stomped off into the house, and I was left with his charming wife, who turned out to be American. I was thinking, gosh he's done well, to have this wonderful house and an American wife ... then he came out again, poured enormous drinks (a great tumbler of whisky for me) and I started to tell him about my Cuillin book and how I wanted to use his poetry. He said very little, seemed very quiet, almost puzzled. I had been there for about ten minutes, I think, before he suddenly said, in a very strong American accent:

'You know, I haven't written one goddamn line of goddamn poetry in my goddamn life!'

It turned out that he was an American who lived about a couple of doors away from Sorley Maclean, a friend of his, as it happened. Apparently he was well-known, living in that rather lonely part of Skye, for inviting in passers-by at the drop of a hat ...

I then gulped down my huge tumbler of whisky and hastened on to the real Sorley Maclean ... Apparently Sorley and the American bumped into each other a few days later in Portree and had a hell of a laugh about it.

Slainte Mhor Mike.

In reply to JohnnyW:

Completely riveting. Loved it. I was there with you both!

Thanks for sharing it with us all.........................

A non-climbing pall has ordered it, so I'll let you know what he thinks.

In reply to JohnnyW:

Well. thank you for your enthusiastic reaction and the fact that you're obviously spreading the word about it. The most satisfying thing for an author is getting reactions like this from complete strangers - I've been getting fantastic reactions online (on various forums, blogs, Twitter, Facebook, etc) as well as private emails. It's been by far the best creative experience I've had since my Cuillin book ... 18 years ago.

In reply to Only a hill:

There's a good feature - well it's very nicely done (by Ashley Franklin) - about the Fiva launch at Outside in the latest issue of Derbyshire Life. Includes pics of 'at least' one UKC regular poster, for those who are interested ... But ouch! I never like seeing photos of myself in print. Still, I suppose it's all good publicity.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:
Well I read it on holiday and I enjoyed it very much. Most "Epic" climbing literature I have read has been about experienced climbers who get into difficulty through accident or bad luck and make reasoned decisions to extract themselves. What made this refreshing for me was the inexperience of our protagonists compounding already bad decisions. A situation many of us have been in, escaping more by luck than judgement, in our youth. I wanted to shout "STOP NOW YOU BLOODY IDIOTS!!!" as they continued into the jaws of disaster. My wife had to put the book down at one point as she couldn't bear to read what was about to happen next. I loved the cockiness of youth that got them into trouble but also the determination that eventually got them out of it (no spoilers we all know they made it).
To paraphrase Aahz from Mythadventures "Self confidence is a wonderful thing but if it isn't justified someday they will be scrapping you up with a shovel". Nice shovel dodging Gordon

In reply to Only a hill: I have just finished reading Viva and deliberately had avoided reading this thread until after I'd finished as I did not want to be influenced by the opinions of others. That said, now I've been through the thread I'm at one with the views expressed. It's a superb can't put down story. The first person narrative worked really well for me. Like Gordon I was climbing in the 60s and the descriptions of the equipment and feelings of that time came right back at me. Not on Fiva but struggling with route finding, wet rock, uncertainty and the lack of an easy way out on my own adventures on Nevis and Skye particularly.
Great book and I'm sure it will be a success.

In reply to Only a hill:
Will have to get this book,. Looking for my next non-Gmae of Thrones read!

I see Gordon's a twin, So am I though my twin cycles, not climbs / walks. Must have been cool to share such a passion with your twin.

In reply to Only a hill:

I've got to say, it's one of the best Mountain or Adventure books I've read. I was worried that the hyper-exciteable first person perspective would irritate but it didn't and, Gordon, your inner voice sounded a lot like mine when I was 19 and going to the Alps in winter for the first time!

Great story, brilliantly written and, at times breathtaking. Really liked the use of photos alongside the relevant part of the story text rather than flicking to a series of plates in the middle of the book.

I read it in two sittings and it's now with a friend as her second Mountain book, I Chose to Climb being her first. Rave reviews from her, too, so far at least! She had meant to save it for after the completion of her thesis but hasn't been able to put it down!

In reply to hindu:

Thanks, hindu, for your great comments.

Flinticus - as I have said before (but can't say in the book of course, because the present tense allows no retrospective reflections), I am not 100 per cent sure that we would have survived if we had not been twins, because in the last crucial hours we were thinking absolutely as one. I've been in some dangerous situations in the mountains since, when, as as result of fear, people have started to disagree about the best course of action, and that is very, very scary.

In reply to Only a hill:

I really enjoyed this book, got me through most of a plane flight to New York.

In reply to Only a hill: Nothing new to add really other than I really enjoyed the book, the best mountain book I have have read in a long time.
Highly recommended!