UKC

I'm new to climbing in the South of England. I have a Dorset guidebook and have been eyeballing Subluminal.

I'd appreciate advice to prevent me making any fox-passes.

So apparently all of the routes finish on belay stakes. What can I expect to see and do when I work my way to the top of a route? Are we talking essentially a fence post in the ground to throw a sling over?

I presume you top out all the routes then ab back down?

Gear? - a full set of nuts, #9 rockcentric, 3 mid-size tricams, #1 dragon cam, 00 master cam, a few slings - planning on taking a partner who is new to trad and will be doing the easy routes.

General etiquette, does it get crowded on the ledge? Do you bring your kit/snack bag down or stash it above somewhere?

Any advice is welcome and appreciated, remember- the more advice you give, the less I'll get in your way!

In reply to RyMole:

The belay stakes are metal posts driven into the ground, onto which you can clove hitch a sling (I would clove hitch rather than just sling it, to stop the sling riding off) and belay from. Top out to your belay stake (which may involve some highly entertaining grass scrambling at some venues, but at least not at Subluminal as it finishes at a big ledge), and ab back down. I'd personally leave your ab rope in place for the duration if you can spare a rope, otherwise you're committed to climbing out (which isn't too bad at Subluminal as there are several easy routes out, but it is an extra worry you don't need).

In reply to RyMole:
Apologies if you know this, but it's not clear from your post. At Swanage you walk in to the top, ab to the bottom and climb out. This gives you the opportunity to inspect the belay before you start. Make sure you're in the right place before abbing! It can be hard to work it out. Don't bring anything extra down with you, just the gear for the climb.

In reply to RyMole: Contact and join Wessex Mountaineering Club who have regular local crag group days out. www.wessexmc.org.uk.

In reply to RyMole:

It's all fairly obvious and unintimidating when you get there. The crag is small, several stakes around, usually busy at w/e with more than one ab rope in situ. Freda is best route there, and must-do if you are capable of tricky VS.

Also consider visiting cattle troughs, arguably better crag, 10mins west down the coast. No ab in required. Not as steep as sub. Hangover is a good and easy well pro VS.

In reply to RyMole: Get yourself down to the Ruckle, marmolata butress abseil is easy to find, make sure you pull the ropes for that full on commitment. There are plenty of good routes nearby, Finale Groove is a good introduction with bomber gear.

In reply to RyMole:
Based on your logbook, Subluminal is the place to start. In terms of what the stakes look like, there are some images linked on this thread http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=475324 (not the pics are not from subluminal but you get the idea).

The ledge at the top is nice and wide and doesn't get too crowded, there are a few obvious recesses to hide bags in. I have always left my stuff up there and never had a problem.

In terms of routes, there are plenty of nice VS's, though some are low on gear as noted in the rockfax. For your trad newbie at Severe both Curving Crack and the Corners are well protected, although avoid them if it the cracks are notably wet as they feel 2 grades harder! Balcony is good at HS.

For VS I like Transcript Direct, Spreadeagle and Slip Road.

Once you have played around at Subluminal a few times, have a look at Cattle Troughs as suggested above - the finishes on the easy routes are normally OK but some are a bit loose.

After that try Guillemot Ledge (recommendations Mistaken Identity VS, plus the other 2 pitch VS's). The Ruckle is definitely somewhere to aim for, but bare in mind that the routes are long (30m +) and steep - you want a grade in hand if you are not sure on stamina!

Anyway, enjoy, Swanage is a great place. You also need to go to the Square and Compass post climbing for cider and a pasty.

In reply to RyMole:
The top of Subluminal isn´t a ledge, it is a flat rocky area leading up gently to a grassy field, it´s huge (it used to be used for car parking and picknicking)! And at strategic points there are metal bars hammered into the rock.
You base yourself at the top and ab or climb down to start your route.
The ledge at the bottom is smaller.
You leave your junk at the top.
A set of nuts and a sling will get you up every route at Subluminal.

In reply to RyMole:

Great advice, thanks everyone. I'm really looking forward to it now lets hope the weather holds.

Jamespilgrim - Excellent shout on the pasties although do they have to be with cider? I'll try with beer.

In reply to RyMole: mate if it your first time go cattle troughs the route will get you into more plus it is nomally not as crowded. routes which are good easy routes at subliminal are gangway,curving crack. the face area is easy to abseil either that or by high street where abseils.

In reply to RyMole:
Beer is also available, normally 3 or 4 real ales to supplement the cider list. Important post climb refreshment!

In reply to RyMole: Most the advice above is good, I'd take the encouragement towards the Ruckle with a pinch of salt unless you like hurling yourself in the deep end.
Another option Swanage offers that may be suitable for a first visit is the bolted climbing in the quarries. Winspit at the Western end (convenient for the Square and Compass) is set above the sea, so no tidal or abseil concerns and it has a good spread of grades starting from F4, so there should be something for a novice to have a crack at too.
The new 2012 Dorset Rockfax (is this the guide you have?) has details of all the climbs there, loads have been added since the previous edition. It is a good place to get used to the vagaries of Swanage rock before venturing onto the Trad. As has been mentioned above I would rate Cattle Troughs a better venue for Trad up to VS than Subluminal - the climbs are a little longer and feel more satisfying, the gear is more consistently available too.
If you progress to the longer Swanage climbs (the Ruckle and Guillemot) you'll appreciate doubling up your nuts in sizes 3-7.
It is wise to set proper belays at the base of climbs at Sub and CT as freak waves can hit these ledges occasionally and your belayer will not be much use if he is swept out to sea!

In reply to RyMole:

If you want to climb the following day stick with beer. The cider is a lot stronger than it seems and very moreish. I speak from experince!

In reply to RyMole:

Forget the gear and go DWS

In reply to trouserburp:

Except there's a big swell at the moment

In reply to RyMole:

Thanks again for the tips - had an excellent day down at Cattle Troughs yesterday with the sun shining and the cliffs pretty much to ourselves. Looking forward to going back again.

Jamespilgrim - now I know why it's a cider in the Square and Compass. Not so sure about having one then getting back in the car though!

In reply to RyMole:
Ah yes I might not have mentioned the percentage... Glad to hear you had a good time, make sure you get back down there before the end of the year.

In reply to Mark Lloyd:

Questionable advice to a Swanage virgin.

I agree that it's a great venue with loads of good routes, but it's very committing and somewhat intimidating on first aquaintence. I suggest the OP gets a "feel" for Dorset limestone on some of the less intimidating venues like Subluminal, Cattle Troughs, Guillemot first, particularly as there is a tendancy for undergrading there. The Ruckle isn't a place to discover half way through a lead that you've been a bit too ambitious.

In reply to RyMole:

Just noticed your last post, glad you had a good time at Cattle Troughs.