/ Ailefroide - How many quickdraws?
My guidebook is too well tessellated within my bag to risk unpacking it now! Can anyone with a guide, or off the top of their head, tell me roughly how many quickdraws one would need on the single and multipitch climbs?
Also route suggestions wouldn't go a miss. I think we are only staying there for a few days but I had my eye on La Snoopy.
Carried 14 and never placed all on any of the routes I did
I was there a few weeks ago and I seemed to remember 14/15 seemed good. I may have linked a few pitches though.
Here are some route suggestions:
Snoopy direct, f6b,absolute class route much better than Snoopy.
La vie devant soi, 6b+, probably the best route in the valley around this grade. The 6b+ pitch is soft for the grade.
Soleil Glacial, f6b, 500m route at the top of the valley, real mountain feel to it.
I carry a set of wires on all the routes.
Worst comes to worse you can buy in the valley.
Bit of a hijack, but can you get away with a single rope (70m) on some of the multipitch routes? I just read you need a 100m rope (or doubles I guess?), but is it possible to get away without?
Cheers, and enjoy your trip!
> Bit of a hijack, but can you get away with a single rope (70m) on some of the multipitch routes?
Yes, you can get away with it - we just got back and while a single 70m rope will limit you somewhat in terms of which routes you can do (most are equipped for 40-50m abseil descents), there are a few routes that you can walk off. We did "Explosion des Calcaneums", a great route that you can walk down from in 20-25 mins on the Tete de la Draye path.
Also, you can walk off the top of the "Fissure" buttress fairly easily (apart from one sketchy bit, which has an in-situ rope and wire to hold on to).
Climbing on a single rope will be fine if you take plenty of long draws/extenders to reduce drag, as some pitches tend to wander around a bit.
All in all, if you're just climbing in Ailefroide itself take 2x50m half ropes. If -like us - you are planning to do some sport climbing down the valley (NB - Mont Dauphin is great!) then take the longest single rope you own.
We also climbed Visite Obligatoire on the Aiguille Dibona (about 2 hours drive from Ailefroide) - amazing and easily done on single rope.
I've just came back from Ailefroide, and half of the cable on the walk off from the Fissure is missing. Well, it was my first time in Ailefroide but my partners assured me that it was missing!
It's not too bad as far as sketchy walk-offs go, but we had some direct belaying antics going on as two of us didn't feel 100% happy. It's only one short section though - after that it's an easy walk down through the trees.
Yes - that section was missing when we were there too, but it's not too bad to scramble across. There is still cable where it is most needed.
Elsewhere on the site
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
On Saturday 13th December Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson kicked off their Scottish winter season early by making the... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
With four photos in this week's top ten, and a UKC gallery of stunning images we thought it was time we had a chat with... Read more