/ Rope advice for Mont Blanc
As I want another half rope to match my current half-rope (50m mammut genesis 8.5mm), I'm thinking to: buy a dry 70m half rope, cut it into a 20m and 50m length; 20m is to be used to rope together for anything sketchy on MB, and the other 50m will be my 'other half' - cheap at under £100.
Think these are my options:
1: 70m mammut phoenix (8mm) - £145. Super light, not hardwearing.
2: 70m edelrid kestrel (8.5mm) - £140. Matches dia, but I have no personal experience with their ropes.
3: Get a 50m genesis AND iceline - £170 total. 10m more rope on the shortrope, but more money.
I climb mainly sport and UK trad, but want a versatile rope system to use on Alpine and ice in the future.
Any recommendations or any tricks missed? Is a 30m 8.1mm rope really useful, or could I live with 20m? I appreciate the 8mm phoenix won't last as long, but a superlightweight rope is appealing!
Just buy the length you need of the reel.
You could just use a 50m half rope?
Darksys - I'm already inspired by the Olympics - and have cut my pork pie consumption, sustainable change? Doubt it :-)
Well I'm gonna spend about £110 on another 50m half rope anyway, so another £35 for 20m of rope that will serve as a glacier/scrambling/walking rope doesn't seem that bad. Taking a 50m rope with coils is over 1kg of rope more to carry - in an alpine kit, 35 quid is great value for that weight saving!
Most climbing shops sell it off the reel.
not sure why,maybe the teflon coating,maybe because they have less surface area and less weight they dont rub/drag as much,all i know is they really are very hardwearing.
also have a mammut serenity supposed to be 8.9mm,looks more like a normal 10mm,has a thinner less robust sheath and its fluffy and worn and has been used far less than the phoenix.
"mammut phoenix...VERY hardwearing,"
mine are 5 years old, still going strong and I have used them for nearly all my climbing.
Disadvantages to 8mm are:
Easier cut through by sharp edges
Not as safe when climbing in a 3
Not as safe to climb soley on one rope then the other for pitches with a traverse in the middle etc
Harder to hold falls, it's worth getting a specialist small rope belay device like the buggette, I have two one for me and one for my partner. Although some of the standard modern devices do go down to 8mm they will not hold falls as well as a specialist device.
I've also heard the elasticity on the ropes decreases faster with falls, which makes sense, although I don't fall off much so not a biggy for me.
I'm going for the 70m 8mm phoenix to get the 20m short-rope and the 50m half.
No climbing store I've contacted sells dry halves on the reel apart from needlesports, and at £2/meter it's worse value. The weight saving of a 20m rope over a 50m rope is worth it. And don't see why it's a shame to cut a rope, I'm buying stuff to serve me, I don't serve the things I buy! :-)
Plus tying coils prevents you from flipping over when you fall in as your tie in point is higher, almost like a chest harness.
> Most climbing shops sell it off the reel.
Isn't the 8mm that's sold off the reel usually static?
Aren't you more likely to flip over if the tie in point is higher? I've always moved the load point to my harness.
You can generally buy most ropes off the reel. I used to buy 120m of Mammut Galaxy and cut it up into 2x25m and a 70m. Just have to shop around a bit.
No. The other way round. Try it.
With a couple of coils, you can still escape the system and make a 3:1 rescue system. A 6:1 might require more rope though...thanks for pointing that out.
By getting a 70m, I will end up with two useful ropes - a 50mm half rope and a 20m confidence rope that can be used on glaciers, scrambling etc.
Interesting point about the £1/meter rope at that store, good shout.
they are pretty amazing ropes,they have changed the colour/pattern of them recently but dont know if they are in the shops in the uk yet.
Don't underestimate how difficult it is to haul someone out of a hole using a 3:1 system. It's often sold as the answer to all your woes. It isn't, believe me. Have a rope that allows you to make a 6:1. If, of course, there are lots of other people around just find six volunteers and hey presto, you've got a 6:1. At the same time, don't overestimate the likelyhood of one of you falling into a hole...
"the likelyhood of one of you falling into a hole... "
On the Gouter route there are very few potential holes, unless you get lost. The potential of losing your way if the weather turns or maybe to inspire confidence on the bosses is the only reason you need a rope at all. I was happy without one and I'm by no means hardcore.
Be well acclimatised
Wait for good weather
Like the idea of your 20m and 50m system purchase.
I did say 'don't OVERestimate... '
Yes and I was agreeing. You might say the Jon's backed up. aha.
Are you so unfit that an extra 20m of rope might stop you getting up MB?
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